The Camino Primitivo walking stages + PDFs
The Camino Primitivo or the Original Way is a part of the Northern Camino de Santiago network that includes Camino Primitivo, Camino del Norte (the Northern Way), and Camino Ingles (the English Way).
The total distance of the Camino Primitivo is 321 km/200 mi it can be completed in two weeks. The trail starts at the cathedral of Oviedo and finishes at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. It's considered to be the toughest Camino de Santiago route due to its many steep ascents and descents. The route passes through two Spanish provinces – Asturias and Galicia and offers a great in-nature experience combined with good infrastructure.
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More details on the route you can find in our Camino Primitivo guide.
Camino Primitivo downloadable PDFs
To make your planning and walking easier we've created two free downloadable PDFs for the Camino Primitivo.
- Places to stay on the Camino Primitivo (downloadable PDF)
- Camino Primitivo walking stages (downloadable PDF)
Camino Primitivo route overview
- Distance - 321 km/200 mi
- Number of days required - 12-14
- Starting point - Oviedo, Asturias
- Finishing point - Santiago de Compostela, Galicia
- Average cost - 35-40 Euro per person per day on average
- Accommodation - public and private albergues, hotels, guesthouses
The Camino Primitivo can be combined with the Camino del Norte and the French Camino. Both Caminos have connection routes to Oviedo where the Original Way starts. The Camino de San Salvador is a connecting route from León (the French Way) to Oviedo. On the Camino del Norte, there is a route split just before Gijón that goes to Oviedo.
Travel insurance for the walk
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Oviedo the beginning of the route
The Camino Primitivo starts at the Cathedral of Oviedo. Oviedo is a beautiful city with typical cobblestone streets, a charming historical center, and many restaurants, and bars. It's easy to get here by bus or train from different cities in Spain.
Places to stay in Oviedo
There are plenty of places to stay in Oviedo from a municipal albergue to spa hotels.
- Budget | Municipal albergue | Green Hostel Oviedo | HiHome Hostel |
- Middle price | Hotel Castro Real | Hotel Carreño | Aparthotel Campus |
- Luxury | Hotel & Spa Princesa Munia | AC Hotel Oviedo Forum | Ayre Hotel Oviedo |
Camino Primitivo walking stages
Day 1. Oviedo – Grado, 25 km/15.5 mi
San Lazaro - La Bolguina - El Escamplero - Paladin - L'Arche - Grado
It's important to start walking early to have enough time for several lunch and rest breaks along the way. The first day is always difficult on any Camino. This stage is quite challenging due to several steep ascents and descents.
You can split the first day on the Camino Primitivo into two; walk from Oviedo to El Escamplero, 12 km, and the next day from El Escamplero to Grado, 13 km. It's a good option if you don't want to spend a night in Oviedo and rather start walking the same day you arrive.
Our first day was very challenging due to heavy rain that continued all morning. The Camino Primitiv route starts at the cathedral of Oviedo and then goes through the city into the hills.
Highlights of the day
- Oviedo Cathedral and the historical center.
- Pastoral scenery; green hills, small villages, cows and sheep walking around.
- Beautiful mountain scenery.
- The historical center of Grado and the Sunday market.
Challenges
- Several ascents and descents on the Camino
Grado
A big town with many churches, a nice historic center, many shops, etc. If you're in the city on Sunday you'll walk through a big local market where you can buy delicious local cheeses, ham, salami, and bread.
- ATM – yes, many on the way
- Shops – yes, many supermarkets on the way, most open on Sundays.
- Restaurants, cafes – many on the way.
Places to stay in Grado*
- | Municipal albergue of Grado | Hotel Auto-Bar | Hotel Areces |
*A complete list of accommodations on the Camino you can find in our downloadable PDF file.
Day 2. Grado to Salas, 24 km/15 mi
Grado - Villapañada - La Doriga - Cornellana - Casazorrina - Salas.
A beautiful walk through the mountains and small villages, we left early in the morning and all the food places were still closed, we walked all the way to before we could have some food and coffee. There is a long uphill after Grado. It was quite a muddy day, mostly walking through the forest on the path but due to heavy rains, it was very dirty and wet so good waterproof shoes are essential.
Highlights
- Beautiful scenery.
- A couple of old small villages/towns.
Challenges
- Muddy path
- Many up and down-hills
Salas
A nice town with a beautiful church and picturesque scenery.
- ATM – yes, several.
- Shops – yes, one quite big supermarket and a couple of smaller shops.
- Restaurants – yes, several, some closed on Mondays.
Places to stay in Salas
- | Municipal albergue de Salas (temporary closed) | Albergue Valle del Nonaya | Albergue Casa Sueño | Hotel Casa Sueño | Castillo De Valdés Salas |
Day 3. Salas to Tineo, 20 km/12,4 mi
Salas - Bodenaya - La Espina - Tineo.
A nice walking day with quite a bit of uphill walking, a couple of pilgrim's rest stops; a place with coffee and snack vending machines, toilets, tables, and chairs. The first place to stop for coffee is La Espina, 9km away.
Highlights
- Waterfall, about 2km from Salas, 250m down-hill detour
- Forest walk
Challenges
- Muddy path
- Long uphill in the beginning
Tineo
Quite a big town with a beautiful view of the valley and the mountains.
- ATM – yes
- Supermarkets – yes
- Restaurants, bars, cafes – yes
Places to stay in Tineo
- | Municipal albergue de Tineo | Hotel Palacio de Merás | Apartamentos La Panerona |
Day 4. Tineo to Pola de Allande, 28 km/17,3 mi
Tieno - Campiello - Borres - Porciles - Pola de Allande.
A long and tiring day I'd recommend starting early. On the way from the albergue, there is a bakery that opens at 6 am you can buy fresh bread there. The next place to stop for coffee or lunch is Campiello, 14km away.
As an option you can break this day on the Camino Primitivo into two; stay in Campiello (there are two private albergues there, both have restaurants, and one has a grocery shop), and continue the next day to Pola de Allande, 15km. It's a good option if you feel tired, don't push yourself rather walk a short day and rest more. There is a municipal albergue in Borres 17km but it's more than basic and there are no shops, only one bar.
Highlights
- Beautiful morning view of Tineo from the top of the hill.
Challenges
- Many smallish up-hills
- A muddy trail along cow pasture fields
- Long and steep down-hill, 300m, to Pola de Allande
Pola de Allande
A small and cozy town surrounded by mountains.
- ATM – yes
- Supermarket – yes, closed from 2 pm to 4.30pm
- Restaurants, bars, cafés – yes
Places to stay in Pola de Allande
- | Municipal albergue de Pola de Allande | Hotel Nueva Allandesa | Casa Gayón |
Day 5. Pola de Allande to La Mesa, 23 km/14,2 mi
Pola de Allande - Puerto del Palo - Montefurado - Lago - Barducedo - A Mesa.
From the beginning of the day you start walking uphill, the most difficult walking day on the Camino Primitivo. The trail goes through the mountains for a while there will be no place to stop for a cup of coffee or lunch, the nearest place is Berducedo, 19km away. We'd suggest having breakfast in Pola there are several cafés on the way that serves breakfast from 6 am.
If you feel very tired after a long steep uphill you can stay in Barduceda, 18km from Pola, there are two albergues; one municipal and one private, a couple of bars, and a small shop. By the way, the municipal albergue in A Mesa is one of the worst on the Camino the one in Berducedo is better.
Highlights
- Stunning view over the mountains
- Montefurado - a tiny village on the top of the hill with old rock houses and walls, only one resident and many cows.
Challenges
- Very long and steep up-hill, 600m in the first half
- Strong wind and mist on the top, prepare rain-jacket
La Mesa
There is nothing here except for two albergues and a restaurant, it's not a town or village if you want to buy some food do it in Barducedo.
- ATM – no
- Supermarket – no
- Restaurant – yes
Places to stay in La Mesa
Alternative route from Tineo to La Mesa through Hospitales, 46 km/28,5 mi, 2 days
There is an optional route on the Camino Primitivo through Hospitales. The total distance to A Mesa will be a bit shorter, the trail goes up through the mountains. It's worth taking this route only if the weather is good otherwise it will be cloudy, and windy and you won't see anything. The trail splits on the second day at La Mortera, on the first day you still walk on the main route, and joins again on the second day at Puerto del Palo.
Day 4. Tineo to Borres, 18 km/11 mi
Borres is a tiny village with an albergue and a bar, but no shop. Keep in mind the albergue in Borres is very basic and doesn't have a kitchen but you can get food and coffee in the bar.
Day 5. Borres to La Mesa, 28km/optional Barducedo, 26 km/16 mi
From Borres you walk for 15km through the wild without anything or anybody after that the trail joins the main route at Puerto del Palo from where it's 13km to A Mesa. On a clear day, you'll be able to enjoy stunning mountainous scenery.
Day 6. La Mesa to Grandas de Salime, 17 km/10,5 mi
La Mesa - Embalse de Salime - Grandas de Salime.
It was the day with the most beautiful scenery, one long downhill, most of the day slightly uphill. We'd suggest having breakfast in La Mesa there is no place to stop on the way except one restaurant 4km before Salime.
Highlights
- Tiny rocky chapel, after the first up-hill from La Mesa, the smallest and cutest chapel we've ever seen
- Stunning view over Embalse de Salime (water reservoir) on the way down to the dam. The most impressive water body on the Camino Primitivo.
- A balcony/viewpoint at the dam on the right-hand side of the road (walk through the door).
- Anthropology museum in Grandas de Salime, 1,5 euro entrance fee.
Challenges
- Steep and long down-hill to the dam
- Some road walk along the dam but the road is not busy
Grandas de Salime
A nice town, we were quite happy we decided to stay and not to walk on. There are two albergues here, one municipal and one private, and a couple of pensions.
- ATM – yes. Don't use Telebanco, it charges a 5 euro commission.
- Supermarket – yes
- Restaurants – yes
Day 7. Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada, 28 km/17,3 mi
Grandas de Salime - Cereixeira - Castro - Venta del Acebo - Barbeitos - A Fonsagrada.
A nice day of walking with some up-hills, a forest walk, and a few muddy roads. The day went quite fast for us it didn't feel like we walked 26km. Today you leave Asturias and enter a different province – Galicia, there will be a sign indicating it.
Highlights
- It was so cloudy and misty that we didn't see much.
- Saw a dear and a genet in the forest.
Challenges
- Some road walk but the roads were not busy we saw a car every once in a while
- Very steep uphill right at the end all the way to A Fonsagrada.
A Fonsagrada
A nice and quite big town with several albergues, hostels, and pensions. A good place to aim for in high season as there are many accommodation options. Attention! The municipal albergue used to be in Padron, 2km away from the town but it was moved now it is in A Fonsagrada next to the church.
- ATM – yes.
- Supermarkets – yes
- Restaurants, bars - yes
Places to stay in A Fonsagrada
- | Municipal albergue | Albergue Piñeiral Fonsagrada | Pension Casa Manolo | Hotel portico | Casa Marentes | Casa da Lembranza (1,5km past Fonsagrada, on the Camino |
Day 8. A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo Baleira, 25 km/15,5 mi
A Fonsagrada - Padron - Paradavella - A Lastra - Fontaneira - O Cadavo Baleira.
Weather-wise it was one of the worst days on our Camino, it rained from early morning, and we were wet, cold, and miserable.
Challenges
- One long down-hill
- Many uphills that sometimes were quite steep
O Cadavo Baleira
A small town with three albergues, one municipal and two private. There are shops but they all are closed on Sundays you have to bring food with you from A Fonsagrada or eat in one of the restaurants. There are a couple of bars a bit further away from the albergue that give you tapas for free if you order drinks.
- ATM – yes.
- Shop – yes
- Restaurants, bars - yes
Places to stay in O Cadavo Baleira
Day 9. O Cadavo Baleira to Lugo, 30 km/18,6 mi
Vilabade - Castroverde - Vilar de Cas - Gondar - Castelo - Lugo.
We'd suggest starting the day early in order to have more time in Lugo, it's a nice city with a lot to see. The municipal albergue in Lugo has only 40 beds so if you arrive late you might not get a spot but there are many private albergues and hostels there. You can get breakfast and coffee at Vilabade there is a food kiosk there, and people who run it will open a local church for you, and tell you a little bit about the Camino Primitivo (if you understand Spanish).
Highlights
- The umbrella fountain in front of the church in Castroverde looks amazing if it rains.
- The historical town of Lugo; has impressive huge Roman walls, a Gothic cathedral, and cobblestone streets.
- Calle de Los Vinos in Lugo (street near the cathedral), don't miss it, especially over weekends, there are several bars where if you order drinks you get free tapas, small beer 1,20 Euro, big - 2 Euro.
- Bakery Meson de Crecente in Lugo is across the road from Puerta de San Pedro.
Challenges
- Long distance, 30km, relatively flat with one uphill in the beginning.
- A little bit of walking on the road but most of the time there were no cars.
Lugo
A big city with a beautiful historical center behind the old Roman walls; cobblestone streets, a cathedral, churches, museums, etc. Some of our Camino friends, who arrived too tired for walking around the city, stayed here for two days to have a chance to see it. Remember, you're not allowed to stay for two nights in the municipal albergue but private albergues won't mind.
- ATMs – yes.
- Supermarkets – yes. The next day there will be no shops on the way if you want to buy something buy it in Lugo.
- Restaurants, bars - yes
Places to stay in Lugo
- | Municipal albergue | Hostel Cross | Hostel O Miño | Hotel España | Hotel Méndez Núñez | Exe Puerta San Pedro |
Day 10. Lugo to San Romao da Retorta (Castrelo), 20 km/12,4 mi
Lugo - San Lazaro - San Vicenzo do Burgo - San Romao da Retorta/Castrelo.
It would have been an easy walking day and we were planning to walk further to the next place but it rained very hard, we were completely wet and decided to stop at San Roman da Retorta. As an option to make your next day shorter you can walk 5km more and stop at A Covela (there is only one private albergue there).
Highlights
- Nice view of Lugo and the Old Roman bridge from the outskirts of the city.
- A beautiful walk through the forest.
Challenges
- A half of the day walking on the road though not very busy.
San Roman da Retorta (Castrelo)
Both places are the same village, there is nothing here except for one municipal and one private albergue with a restaurant.
Places to stay in San Romao
| Municipal albergue, 8 euro | Casa Castrelo |
Day 11. San Romao da Retorta/Castrelo to Melide, 28 km/17,3 mi
Ferreira (O Carballal) - As Seixas - Casacamino - Irago de Arriba - Melide.
Last day of walking without crowds of pilgrims on the trails. There are several restaurants on the way where you can stop for lunch or coffee.
Highlights
- Some parts of the trail through the forest. To be honest, the last three days of the Camino Primitivo are less impressive than the first part.
Challenges
- Some uphill walking though not steep or long.
Melide
The Camino Primitivo merges with the Camino Frances in Melide. For the last two days, you walk on the French Camino. When you reach the city don't be surprised there will be hundreds of pilgrims there. The last part of the French Way from Sarria is the most popular Camino route. No need to worry about accommodation, there are many albergues, including one municipal for 120 people. The town is famous for pulperias – restaurants where you can eat pulpo (octopus cooked with spices).
- ATMs – yes.
- Supermarkets – yes
- Restaurants, bars – yes
Places to stay in Melide
Day 12. Melide to O Pedrouzo, 33 km/20,5 mi
Melide - Boente - A Fraga Alta - Ribadiso da Baixo - Arzua - Calle - Salceda - Mojon - O Empalme - Santa Irene - A Rua - O Pedrouzo.
After the quiet Camino Primitivo, you start walking on the French Camino with hundreds if not thousands of other pilgrims. There are many coffee shops, restaurants, albergues on the way, every 5km at least. To get from the Camino Primitivo to the French Way was like coming out of a quiet forest right in the middle of a big and busy city.
Challenges
- Quite a bit of walking along the road
- Hundreds of pilgrims on the route, especially after Arzua
- Distance, 33km - the longest day on the Camino
O Pedrouzo
Don't know if this place would exist without the Camino, the town is only one street with many albergues, restaurants, cafes, etc. There are several private albergues/hostels and hotels as well as one municipal albergue. We didn't stay here we decided to challenge ourselves and walked to Santiago in one day, 53km. It was tough but we made it by 6 pm and were quite happy to be finished one day earlier and have more time to explore Santiago.
- ATMs – yes.
- Supermarkets – yes
- Restaurants, bars – yes
Places to stay in O Pedrouzo
| Albergue O Trisquel | Pension Maruja | Pension 23 | Pension Diana | Pension 9 de Abril |
Day 13. O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, 20 km/12,4 mi
O Pedrouzo - San Paio - Lavacolla - Monte do Gozo - Santiago de Compostela.
On the last day on the Camino Primitivo, we'd suggest starting early if you want to make it to the Pilgrim Mass at 12 pm (there is a Pilgrim Mass at 7.30pm as well). Remember you're not allowed to enter the cathedral with a backpack you can either leave it in your albergue or at the Pilgrim's Reception Office, 100m from the cathedral.
The easiest option is to stay in one of the albergues on the way to the cathedral you can just drop your backpack there and continue walking as we did.
Highlights
- Stunning forest right after O Pedrouzo.
Challenges
- The last 10km of the walk are not well marked, no distances, and you basically follow the crowd.
The Camino Primitivo offers beautiful forest and mountain scenery. If you'd like to add some sea views to complete the picture we can recommend a 3-4-day walk from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre - "the end of the world". If you don't feel like walking anymore but still would like to visit Finisterre and Muxia capes you can do a day bus tour from Santiago.
Santiago de Compostela the end of the Camino Primitivo
There are many great things to do in Santiago de Compostela to keep you busy for a couple of days from going out for wine and tapas to visiting museums and doing day trips to the coast.
There are many great places to stay in Santiago de Compostela from albergues to luxury hotels and spas.
Places to stay in Santiago de Compostela
- Budget | Dream in Santiago | Albergue Turistico la Credencial | Santiago KM-0 |
- Middle price | Hotel Windsor | Hotel Fonte de San Roque | Hotel Hórreo by Bossh! |
- Luxury | Hotel Praza Quintana | Prador de Santiago Hostal Reis Catolicos |
Tours and activities in Santiago de Compostela
If you have a couple of days in Santiago you can spend some time exploring the city and its surroundings.
- Excursion to Finisterre + Muxia + Costa da Morte (7 stops)
- Santiago de Compostela Cathedral and Museum Guided Tour
- Excursion to Rias Baixas with Winery - Optional mussel boat
Camino Primitivo route planning resources
- Get helpful Camino tips | Tips for planning the Camino de Santiago |
- Extend your Camino journey to Finisterre | Camino Finisterre-Muxía walking guide |
- The history of the Original Way
- The history of Santiago de Compostela
- Spiritual preparations for the pilgrimage
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The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.
You state you have two pdf's to download. Unfortunately, they are both pointing to the same file - places to stay. Can you relink the stages file?
Hello Mike. I'm sorry you had to go through all the trouble. I have updated the PDF for the walking stages it should work now. You're welcome.
Buen Camino
Stingy Nomads,
I love your capture of the different Caminos. Thanks! My wife and I are planning to do the Camino del Norte/Camino Primitivo combination walk in Aug/Sep 2023. I'm thinking of including the Camino Lebaniego in our pilgrimage. 2023 is a jubilee year for Lebaniego. Have you walked this Camino? If so, what recommendations might you have (i.e., which villages to stay or sites to visit)?
Hello Dean. Thank you for the comment. We haven't walked the Camino Lebaniego so I can't tell you anything about the albergues or the route itself. I would suggest checking it here https://www.caminolebaniego.com/caminos/camino-lebaniego (it's in Spanish). I'm not sure how you want to combine the Lebaniego with the Primitivo. As far as I know, they are not connected. You can get from the Lebaniego to the Camino Frances (Mansilla de las Mulas) following the Ruta Valdiniense or take a bus back to San Vicente de la Barquera and continue on the Camino del Norte till you reach the turn-off to the Primitivo.
Buen Camino
Hou guys are awesome, so much info I fgeel like I already walked the route. I actually lived on my grandmothers house in a hamlet called La Montana de Illano. I partied in Grandes De Salime for the local feast there many moons ago. This will be a very emotional walk for me. I can't wait...
Thanks for the truly amazing prep work you guys have done.
Buen Camino amigos, y gracias
Hello Tony. Thank you very much for the feedback. I'm sure your walk on the Camino Primitivo filled with old memories will be very special. It's a spectacular route. We enjoyed the area a lot and are thinking of walking it again this coming year.
Buen Camino
Good Morning Stingy Nomads, from Swakopmund,Namibia,Africa
My sister and I are planning to walk the Primitivo Camino from Fonsagrada to Santiago and then the Finisterre Camino to Fisterre/Muxia as well as from the 4th of May 2023 till the 23rd of May 2023.
Will it be a good time?
I also found it that we have to book accommodation when not walking a day. Do you think if we do not book accommodation we will get any at the alberques during that time?
We cannot wait because we planned this as from before Covid, so we are very exited to do it next year.
Hello Marié. Thank you for the comment. May is our favorite month for walking the Camino. We walked the Primitivo in June and were very unlucky with the weather we got a lot of rain in the first half of the route but it was abnormal. I would still recommend packing rain jackets and rain covers for backpacks. In Galicia, it can rain at any time.
May is not a busy month on the Camino Primitivo I don't think finding accommodation will be a problem though if you're planning to stay for 2 nights in a smaller place with not many options I would recommend booking it in advance. Just remember that you can't stay in public Albergues for 2 nights unless you're sick or injured and you can't book them in advance. Private albergues and hotels can be booked in advance and you can stay for as long as you wish if there is space.
Buen Camino
@Stingy Nomads, Hi Stingy, tank you very much. We will try our very best for May 2023. Do you think the Finisterre route will also nice to walk to Muxia and Fisterre and then take the bus or a taxi back to Santiago? I think it can be more rainy and wet on this route but a challenge will be good. I am really sure where to search for private albergues because we have to book in advance according to the Spain Ambassady in Windhoek Namibia, especially for the days not walking. the other days will be fine i think. We will definitely bring our rain covers and umbrellas and jackets with. Tanx for your reply.
May is a good time to walk the Finisterre overall the weather will be similar to the Camino Primitivo. Form Finisterre or Muxia there are several daily buses to Santiago you don't have to take a taxi.
As for booking accommodation, in the third paragraph of this post, you can find downloadable PDF files with walking states and places to stay along the route where you can find a list of private albergues and hotels with booking links. You can use it to book your accommodation for the Camino. I would suggest you book accommodation for the arrival and departure days (you'll probably be flying to Madrid) and the first and the last day of your Camino walk as a confirmation for your visa application and outline your walking itinerary. You can use our PDF file as an example.
Buen Camino
Hello Stingy Nomads,
A wonderfully extensive guide, thank you.
My wife and I are planning to do the Primitivo in early/mid-June '23, and after much searching I have noticed quite a few accommodation places are already booked out, especially the more fancied ones
Is accommodation an issue in June? Should I be planning to book the whole (or most) of the walk, or just wing it?
We would probably prefer a mix of private albergues and quest house/hotel/county house of a higher standard, with an extra day in Oviedo & Lugo
At 62 I need some creature comforts from time to time!
I have looked at self-guided options which take out the hassles but cost a lot more.
We've done plenty of long walks, but this will be the first camino style for us.
Very excited about it...
Cheers,
Hugh & Rachael
Hello Hugh. Thank you for the comment. Finding high-end accommodation on the Camino Primitivo shouldn't be a problem. Most pilgrims prefer staying in albergues fancier places usually have availability. Some places don't accept bookings long in advance because chances of cancellation are quite high. It might be the reason you see them as not available for your selected dates. I would suggest checking again in January-February. I'm sure then they'll start accepting bookings for the coming year. June is a popular time but not the peak season for the Camino Primitivo accommodation should be a problem. I would suggest booking accommodation in advance in small places with one or two albergues/hotels e.g. La Mesa where there is only one private albergues. The rest you can book just before your trip or as you go a couple of days in advance.
I don't think you need to use a company to plan your itinerary and book everything in advance. I would rather stay more flexible and keep possibility to adjust and change your itinerary as you go.
Buen Camino
An excellent post, thanks very much, it must have taken a lot of time and effort to compile all this 🙂 I realise that weather is very unpredictable, especially in this day and age, but do you think it would be feasible to start the Primitivo late March / early April ? The cold and rain doesn't bother me but I wouldn't want to get stuck in the snow. Also would there there be plenty of accommodation options that early in the year ? Cheers
Hello Derek. Thank you for the comment. I'd say the end of March/beginning of April is a bit early to walk the Camino Primitivo. It's likely there will be some snow up in the mountains. Many public albergues might be still closed some open after Easter. Most private albergues and hotels are likely to be open. I would suggest postponing the walk for a couple of weeks to a month to have better weather and more accommodating options on the Camino. If it's the only period you can walk maybe you can consider a different route e.g. the Portuguese Camino from Porto.
Buen Camino
Hi,
Wow, very informative!
I'm a single female pilgrim (or going to be) and will be doing the Camino Primitivo this September. It is the first time that I do a trip like this, so a bit of 'feel the fear and do it anyway' and exited at the same time.
I am quite fit, as in, teach yoga and pilates 7 hours a week, take salsa classes 2 times a week, and I walk regularly (short distances) and bike in the centre. I live in the Netherlands so that is quite normal here. Is some training (the coming weeks) recommended?
So there a few things that I worry of.
- Is there a transfer from the Airport Oviedo to Oviedo Centre? I arrive quite late with the flight, and I guess it is safe to book a accommodation beforehand?
And is it easy to find the start of the Camino the next morning?
- Is there a luggage travel possible from hostel to hostel? And where can I arrange that?
- I'm quite 'scared' of the worst case scenario that you walked long and that the alberques are full already. Is there possibility to book in advance? But in mind that I would like to travel as low budget as possible, because of my own low budget for this trip.
- I have quite some time, arriving the 5th (so start walking the 6th) and going back on the 24th of September from Santiago. Would that be enough to also walk to Finisterre / Muxia, or would you recommend to go on day trips there?
- For the food, I have a gluten sensitivity and eat vegetarian. Do you know if there are enough options there?
A lot of questions, maybe I can find some in your blog but did not see them the first time.
Looking forward to hear from you. Thanks a lot!
Hello Tess. Thank you for the comment.
There is no airport in Oviedo. Your flight is probably to Asturias Airport which is 45 km north of Oviedo. There is a bus from the airport to Oviedo. Buses leave every hour between 9 am and midnight. The journey takes 45 minutes. For prices, timetables, and more information check the Alsa website https://www.alsa.com/en/web/bus/home. I believe it's better to book accommodation for the first night in Oviedo if you arrive late. The Camino Primitivo starts from the Cathedral which is quite easy to find.
There is a section in this post "Practical information for the Camino" where you can find information on luggage transfer services and the companies that provide them.
Public albergues can't be booked in advance. You can book private albergues. There is a PDF file in the third paragraph of this post where that contains information on places to stay on the Camino Primitivo. You can use it to plan your walk.
If you feel like walking more after completing the Camino and have some extra time you can walk the Camino Finisterre. If not you can visit it on a day trip from Santiago de Compostela.
There are not many vegetarian menu options on this route especially if you have a gluten intolerance. The best you can do is cook for yourself. Most albergues have a kitchen. There are grocery stores and supermarkets in every town on the route.
Buen Camino
Excellent information, thanks for posting. My concern is this: due to age I don't walk quite as fast or far as I did back in my carefree 60s and younger, and I'm a little worried that continuous 15-20 mile days might be a little hard on my body. Your outline of stages for a two-week trip are nice but I wonder if there are in-between stops, so that I could do, say, 10-mile days over three weeks. Or, are there simply no places with overnight accommodations between those you describe?T
Hello Terry. Thank you for the comment. The Camino Primitivo is a challenging route with many steep ascents and descents. The route goes over mountains and forests with not as many towns on the way as some other Camino routes e.g. Camino Frances, and Camino Portuguese. It's up to you if you really want to walk the Camino Primitivo you sure can do it. In the third paragraph from the top, you can find 2 downloadable PDF files. One contains all towns and cities along the route with distances. The second file has places to stay on the Camino Primitivo. Using these files you can plan your own itinerary. Most of the stages can be split.
Buen Camino
@Stingy Nomads, Thanks. I'll look at those files. I live in Alaska and a couple of times a week I'm hiking or nordic skiing in the Chugach mountains, so I'm used to up and down.
Thank you so much for this guide, it's great! I was just wondering if you know why some of the albergues are closed since (march?). My sister and I are considering doing this in September, are there other accomodation options in these towns where they are closed?
Hello Elle. Thank you for the comment. Some albergues are closed for renovation, and a few might be shut down permanently but there are more places to stay. If some public albergues are still closed you'll be able to find alternative accommodation on the Camino Primitivo.
Buen Camino
Hello there! If I should make a stop for resting a day, where exactly will you recommend that one to be? Thanks
Hello Monica. If you want to have a rest day on the Camino Primitivo I'd suggest Lugo. It's a beautiful town with a lot to see. You can easily keep yourself busy for a day there. It's about halfway to Santiago.
Buen Camino
I am so grateful to you for this detailed guide, especially for talking about the difficulty of the trails. I will probably come back to this and consult it a few times when I start my planning. I am thinking of going in May 2023.
Hello, Eliza. Thank you for the comment. If you have any questions regarding the Camino Primitivo we'll be happy to answer them.
Cheers
Great information, thank you!
Planning to do the pilgrimage in July with another brother from my community. A few questions...
We will come from the airport in Asturias, about an hour from the Cathedral...do y'all know about arriving to the cathedral from there, is it very easy or there is only one bus, etc.?
Wondering about the accommodations in regards to privacy... reading y'all's post regarding albergues, it seems that the albergues are always "mixed"? Do they ever separate men and women? Is a hotel the only way to guarantee this?
Following y'all's itinerary...what was your schedule like more or less? Just trying to imagine our days more or less, if we try to get an early start every day stop for midday lunch and break...
Other than that, thank you for the excellent information in your posts!
Hello, Brother Ben. Thank you for the comment. Do you mean the Cathedral in Oviedo? If so there are daily buses that connect Asturias Airport and Oviedo. Buses run between 9am to 22.30pm every couple of hours. The journey takes 45min., the price is 9 Euros. You can purchase bus tickets on the ALSA bus company website https://www.alsa.es/. You won't be able to buy tickets for July right now it's too early. Try booking in June.
From our experience the only albergue with separate dormitories for men and women we had in Fatima on the Camino Portuguese. All public and private albergues we stayed on the Camino Primitivo were mixed. Yes, private rooms are the only way for you if you don't want to stay in mixed albergues.
It's better to start walking early, stop for lunch and rest in the middle of the day. We usually start walking around 8am. Stop for breakfast or coffee at the beginning then walk for 2-3 hours, stop for lunch and rest, and continue to our final destination. Check-out in many public albergues is at 8am-9am so you have to be out by that time.
Buen Camino
What a great guide - so informative! I'm planning on the Primitivo in July and am wondering how busy it will be with more pilgrims than usual after all the travel restrictions and with it being a Holy Year. Do you think albergues will be full? I wouldn't usually do a Camino through a tour company but am thinking it might be useful to have my accommodation sorted in advance??
Hello, Katie. Thank you for the comment. Most pilgrims we met on the Camino Primitivo were locals I don't think the fact that the travel restrictions were partly lifted will influence that much on the number of people on this route. You can sort your accommodation yourself if you really want to book everything in advance though I'd suggest booking as you go just a couple of days in advance. This way your itinerary is flexible so you can adjust it if necessary. You can find two PDF files at the beginning of this post (3rd paragraph); one contains the detailed itinerary for the Camino Primitivo and one has a list of places to stay along the route. You can use both to creat your own itinerary and to book accommodation.
Buen Camino
Heerlijk om jullie ervaringen te lezen, ook leerzaam!
Hopelijk zullen er ook droge dagen tussen zitten. Ik vertrek 20 april a.s., warme kleding vereist denk ik zo met een goede poncho.
Heb de Frances en de Portugees gelopen, beide met heel mooi weer en een paar druppels regen. Zal mu waarschijnlijk anders zijn.
Nogmaals hartelijk dank voor jullie blog.
Hello, Ans. Thank you for the feedback. Between my husband's Afrikaans and my German, we managed to understand your comment. A rain poncho is definitely a must on the Camino Primitivo in April. The weather in the mountains is quite unpredictable you might be lucky and get no rain or unlucky like us and get rain almost every day. Even on a rainy day, the Camino Primitivo is beautiful. We're sure you'll enjoy the walk.
Buen Camino
Hi, thanks for your detailed account of the Primitivo! My sister and I are thinking of doing the Frances to Burgos then taking the train to Oviedo to do the Primitivo..starting the Frances beginning of September..we both
Iike Hokas to walk in .. do you think they are adequate for the Primitivo at that time of year?
Hello, Barbara. Thank you for the comment. It can rain on the Camino Primitivo in September and if it does the route gets quite muddy in some places. On the Primitivo, you walk on a footpath or dirt road most of the time. We walked it in June and got a lot of rain our feet were wet quite often. On the other hand, Hokas shoes dry pretty quickly some private albergues even have shoe driers. You can carry a newspaper with you as well and stuff it into your shoes if they get wet. It's important that you walk the Camino in shoes that are comfortable and a good fit. You might be lucky and get no rain at all in September.
Buen Camino
Hello and thankyou for all the usefull informations, but one thing ive noticed is why so many albergues has no blankets ?! Im planning to go in April and still there could be some chilly nights
Hello, Kiko. Thank you for the comment. Bedbugs are the reason many public albergues don't have blankets. For the same reason, mattresses and pillows have plastic covers and you get disposable bedding. Some albergues do have blankets you can ask if you need. Most pilgrims carry a sleeping bag we always walk the Camino with our own sleeping bags. You're right in April it'll be chilly at night but sleeping indoors in a sleeping bag you'll be fine. Private albergues on the Camino Primitivo usually have better facilities and provide blankets. They are a bit more expensive but are warmer as well. In any case, I'd suggest packing a sleeping bag for the Camino.
Buen Camino
Thank you for this, really informative. I hope to do this next summer so I am starting to think about how and your website is full of practical help and inspiration. Dan
Hello, Dan. Thank you very much for the comment! If you have any questions we'll be happy to answer them.
Buen Camino
Hey there!
Awesome post! I've done the French Way and the Camino Portugues (as well as other 7-day treks in Africa and South America). What are your thoughts on bringing a 1-year-old child on the Primitivo (either with a stroller or a hiking baby backpack)?
Obviously, it will add some new challenges but, in your opinion, would it be too challenging? Unsafe? Insane?
Any insight would be appreciated!!
Hello, Chris. Thank you for the comment. We're planning to do the Camino with our daughter in May she'll be 9 months and decided on the Portuguese route. We've walked 7 different Camino routes and in our opinion, the Portuguese one is the best to walk with a toddler. The Primitivo is a very beautiful route but the weather there is very unpredictable you can be unlucky and get a lot of rain. The accommodation options are a bit limited too I'm not sure if you want to stay in albergues with a 1-year-old. The stroller won't work on the Primitivo most of the route is on a footpath/dirt road not good for pushing a stroller. I believe it's possible to do with a toddler but it'll be more challenging than some other Camino de Santiago routes.
Cheers
Hello! Thanks for this blog. I was thinking of doing the Portuguese Camino but now think I need to do this one. Would like more of the physical challenge.I'm not sure when you did this but now in the days of covid are their other options besides dorm rooms and albergues with lots of folks? Not sure I see this covid issue going away anytime soon. Was thinking of April but could push into May if weather better but still not too busy. Also think of doing this alone and understand that you say there's less Americans/english traveling this route. It's nice to meet people but also nice for alone time. Worried more about accomodations. Thanks
Hello, Denis. Thank you for the comment. Albergues are not the only accommodation option on the Camino Primitivo there are hotels and guest houses that offer private rooms for pilgrims. It works out more expensive but if you don't want to stay in dormitories it's your best option. Some private albergues have single and double rooms as well. In any case, many albergues reduce their capacity due to the Covid some even turned their dormitories into private rooms.
May is definitely better than April. The Camino goes over the mountains and there might be even snow in some parts. We walked it in June and it was still a bit chilly and rainy.
There are more Spanish people on the Camino Primitivo but I'm sure there will be some English-speaking pilgrims too.
Buen Camino
Hello,
thanks for this website, I find it extremely useful in planning my own Camino! A question on Camino Primitivo - I wonder if it's a good idea to take a dog with me? Planning to do this hike as solo (female) traveler and thought that bringing my dog as a companion would make me feel safer in remote areas. Also, I wouldn't like to leave him at a dog hotel back home for (at least) 2 weeks that Primitivo route requires.
Any thoughts on this? What might be the main challenges on Primitivo route if I decided to bring a dog? And have you met any other travelers on Camino (doesn't matter which one) being accompanied by a dog?
many thanks in advance,
Ieva
Hello, Ieva. Thank you for the comment. The main challenge walking the Camino Primitivo with a dog is finding accommodation. Not many places allow dogs. I met a girl with a dog on the Camino Frances (she adopted the dog on the way) and she really struggled to find accommodation for her and her dog. As far as I know, public albergues don't allow dogs. We met another girl that walked from Italy with her dog. She walked with a tent and often had to camp herself or pitch a tent outside albergues for her dog. Transportation is another issue I believe dogs are not allowed on buses in Spain. I'm not sure about trains.
If you're worried about walking alone I'd suggest teaming up with other pilgrims for remote stretches. When we walked the Primitivo there were several solo females pilgrims that ended up walking together all the way to the end. I'm sure you'll be able to find company.
Buen Camino
@Stingy Nomads, thanks a lot for the insight, much appreciated!
@Ieva, an additional challenge dogs expirience (in my case it was the Camino Portugees) is to keep the paws safe. Some dogs were wounded and their masters had to break their Caminos.