The Camino Primitivo walking stages + PDFs
The Camino Primitivo or the Original Way is a part of the Northern Camino de Santiago network that includes Camino Primitivo, Camino del Norte (the Northern Way), and Camino Ingles (the English Way).
The total distance of the Camino Primitivo is 321 km/200 mi it can be completed in two weeks. The trail starts at the cathedral of Oviedo and finishes at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. It's considered to be the toughest Camino de Santiago route due to its many steep ascents and descents. The route passes through two Spanish provinces – Asturias and Galicia and offers a great in-nature experience combined with good infrastructure.
Stingy Nomads participates in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. If you click on the link and purchase the item or make a booking, we will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost. Thank You for supporting us and assisting us to produce quality, free content.
More details on the route you can find in our Camino Primitivo guide.
Camino Primitivo downloadable PDFs
To make your planning and walking easier we've created two free downloadable PDFs for the Camino Primitivo.
- Places to stay on the Camino Primitivo (downloadable PDF)
- Camino Primitivo walking stages (downloadable PDF)
Camino Primitivo route overview
- Distance - 321 km/200 mi
- Number of days required - 12-14
- Starting point - Oviedo, Asturias
- Finishing point - Santiago de Compostela, Galicia
- Average cost - 35-40 Euro per person per day on average
- Accommodation - public and private albergues, hotels, guesthouses
The Camino Primitivo can be combined with the Camino del Norte and the French Camino. Both Caminos have connection routes to Oviedo where the Original Way starts. The Camino de San Salvador is a connecting route from León (the French Way) to Oviedo. On the Camino del Norte, there is a route split just before Gijón that goes to Oviedo.
Travel insurance for the walk
You can read more details about travel insurance for the Camino or get a personalized instant insurance quote for your Camino Primitivo trip right now!
World Nomads travel insurance has been designed by travelers for travelers, with coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
Oviedo the beginning of the route
The Camino Primitivo starts at the Cathedral of Oviedo. Oviedo is a beautiful city with typical cobblestone streets, a charming historical center, and many restaurants, and bars. It's easy to get here by bus or train from different cities in Spain.
Places to stay in Oviedo
There are plenty of places to stay in Oviedo from a municipal albergue to spa hotels.
- Budget | Municipal albergue | Green Hostel Oviedo | HiHome Hostel |
- Middle price | Hotel Castro Real | Hotel Carreño | Aparthotel Campus |
- Luxury | Hotel & Spa Princesa Munia | AC Hotel Oviedo Forum | Ayre Hotel Oviedo |
Camino Primitivo walking stages
Day 1. Oviedo – Grado, 25 km/15.5 mi
San Lazaro - La Bolguina - El Escamplero - Paladin - L'Arche - Grado
It's important to start walking early to have enough time for several lunch and rest breaks along the way. The first day is always difficult on any Camino. This stage is quite challenging due to several steep ascents and descents.
You can split the first day on the Camino Primitivo into two; walk from Oviedo to El Escamplero, 12 km, and the next day from El Escamplero to Grado, 13 km. It's a good option if you don't want to spend a night in Oviedo and rather start walking the same day you arrive.
Our first day was very challenging due to heavy rain that continued all morning. The Camino Primitiv route starts at the cathedral of Oviedo and then goes through the city into the hills.
Highlights of the day
- Oviedo Cathedral and the historical center.
- Pastoral scenery; green hills, small villages, cows and sheep walking around.
- Beautiful mountain scenery.
- The historical center of Grado and the Sunday market.
Challenges
- Several ascents and descents on the Camino
Grado
A big town with many churches, a nice historic center, many shops, etc. If you're in the city on Sunday you'll walk through a big local market where you can buy delicious local cheeses, ham, salami, and bread.
- ATM – yes, many on the way
- Shops – yes, many supermarkets on the way, most open on Sundays.
- Restaurants, cafes – many on the way.
Places to stay in Grado*
- | Municipal albergue of Grado | Hotel Auto-Bar | Hotel Areces |
*A complete list of accommodations on the Camino you can find in our downloadable PDF file.
Day 2. Grado to Salas, 24 km/15 mi
Grado - Villapañada - La Doriga - Cornellana - Casazorrina - Salas.
A beautiful walk through the mountains and small villages, we left early in the morning and all the food places were still closed, we walked all the way to before we could have some food and coffee. There is a long uphill after Grado. It was quite a muddy day, mostly walking through the forest on the path but due to heavy rains, it was very dirty and wet so good waterproof shoes are essential.
Highlights
- Beautiful scenery.
- A couple of old small villages/towns.
Challenges
- Muddy path
- Many up and down-hills
Salas
A nice town with a beautiful church and picturesque scenery.
- ATM – yes, several.
- Shops – yes, one quite big supermarket and a couple of smaller shops.
- Restaurants – yes, several, some closed on Mondays.
Places to stay in Salas
- | Municipal albergue de Salas (temporary closed) | Albergue Valle del Nonaya | Albergue Casa Sueño | Hotel Casa Sueño | Castillo De Valdés Salas |
Day 3. Salas to Tineo, 20 km/12,4 mi
Salas - Bodenaya - La Espina - Tineo.
A nice walking day with quite a bit of uphill walking, a couple of pilgrim's rest stops; a place with coffee and snack vending machines, toilets, tables, and chairs. The first place to stop for coffee is La Espina, 9km away.
Highlights
- Waterfall, about 2km from Salas, 250m down-hill detour
- Forest walk
Challenges
- Muddy path
- Long uphill in the beginning
Tineo
Quite a big town with a beautiful view of the valley and the mountains.
- ATM – yes
- Supermarkets – yes
- Restaurants, bars, cafes – yes
Places to stay in Tineo
- | Municipal albergue de Tineo | Hotel Palacio de Merás | Apartamentos La Panerona |
Day 4. Tineo to Pola de Allande, 28 km/17,3 mi
Tieno - Campiello - Borres - Porciles - Pola de Allande.
A long and tiring day I'd recommend starting early. On the way from the albergue, there is a bakery that opens at 6 am you can buy fresh bread there. The next place to stop for coffee or lunch is Campiello, 14km away.
As an option you can break this day on the Camino Primitivo into two; stay in Campiello (there are two private albergues there, both have restaurants, and one has a grocery shop), and continue the next day to Pola de Allande, 15km. It's a good option if you feel tired, don't push yourself rather walk a short day and rest more. There is a municipal albergue in Borres 17km but it's more than basic and there are no shops, only one bar.
Highlights
- Beautiful morning view of Tineo from the top of the hill.
Challenges
- Many smallish up-hills
- A muddy trail along cow pasture fields
- Long and steep down-hill, 300m, to Pola de Allande
Pola de Allande
A small and cozy town surrounded by mountains.
- ATM – yes
- Supermarket – yes, closed from 2 pm to 4.30pm
- Restaurants, bars, cafés – yes
Places to stay in Pola de Allande
- | Municipal albergue de Pola de Allande | Hotel Nueva Allandesa | Casa Gayón |
Day 5. Pola de Allande to La Mesa, 23 km/14,2 mi
Pola de Allande - Puerto del Palo - Montefurado - Lago - Barducedo - A Mesa.
From the beginning of the day you start walking uphill, the most difficult walking day on the Camino Primitivo. The trail goes through the mountains for a while there will be no place to stop for a cup of coffee or lunch, the nearest place is Berducedo, 19km away. We'd suggest having breakfast in Pola there are several cafés on the way that serves breakfast from 6 am.
If you feel very tired after a long steep uphill you can stay in Barduceda, 18km from Pola, there are two albergues; one municipal and one private, a couple of bars, and a small shop. By the way, the municipal albergue in A Mesa is one of the worst on the Camino the one in Berducedo is better.
Highlights
- Stunning view over the mountains
- Montefurado - a tiny village on the top of the hill with old rock houses and walls, only one resident and many cows.
Challenges
- Very long and steep up-hill, 600m in the first half
- Strong wind and mist on the top, prepare rain-jacket
La Mesa
There is nothing here except for two albergues and a restaurant, it's not a town or village if you want to buy some food do it in Barducedo.
- ATM – no
- Supermarket – no
- Restaurant – yes
Places to stay in La Mesa
Alternative route from Tineo to La Mesa through Hospitales, 46 km/28,5 mi, 2 days
There is an optional route on the Camino Primitivo through Hospitales. The total distance to A Mesa will be a bit shorter, the trail goes up through the mountains. It's worth taking this route only if the weather is good otherwise it will be cloudy, and windy and you won't see anything. The trail splits on the second day at La Mortera, on the first day you still walk on the main route, and joins again on the second day at Puerto del Palo.
Day 4. Tineo to Borres, 18 km/11 mi
Borres is a tiny village with an albergue and a bar, but no shop. Keep in mind the albergue in Borres is very basic and doesn't have a kitchen but you can get food and coffee in the bar.
Day 5. Borres to La Mesa, 28km/optional Barducedo, 26 km/16 mi
From Borres you walk for 15km through the wild without anything or anybody after that the trail joins the main route at Puerto del Palo from where it's 13km to A Mesa. On a clear day, you'll be able to enjoy stunning mountainous scenery.
Day 6. La Mesa to Grandas de Salime, 17 km/10,5 mi
La Mesa - Embalse de Salime - Grandas de Salime.
It was the day with the most beautiful scenery, one long downhill, most of the day slightly uphill. We'd suggest having breakfast in La Mesa there is no place to stop on the way except one restaurant 4km before Salime.
Highlights
- Tiny rocky chapel, after the first up-hill from La Mesa, the smallest and cutest chapel we've ever seen
- Stunning view over Embalse de Salime (water reservoir) on the way down to the dam. The most impressive water body on the Camino Primitivo.
- A balcony/viewpoint at the dam on the right-hand side of the road (walk through the door).
- Anthropology museum in Grandas de Salime, 1,5 euro entrance fee.
Challenges
- Steep and long down-hill to the dam
- Some road walk along the dam but the road is not busy
Grandas de Salime
A nice town, we were quite happy we decided to stay and not to walk on. There are two albergues here, one municipal and one private, and a couple of pensions.
- ATM – yes. Don't use Telebanco, it charges a 5 euro commission.
- Supermarket – yes
- Restaurants – yes
Day 7. Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada, 28 km/17,3 mi
Grandas de Salime - Cereixeira - Castro - Venta del Acebo - Barbeitos - A Fonsagrada.
A nice day of walking with some up-hills, a forest walk, and a few muddy roads. The day went quite fast for us it didn't feel like we walked 26km. Today you leave Asturias and enter a different province – Galicia, there will be a sign indicating it.
Highlights
- It was so cloudy and misty that we didn't see much.
- Saw a dear and a genet in the forest.
Challenges
- Some road walk but the roads were not busy we saw a car every once in a while
- Very steep uphill right at the end all the way to A Fonsagrada.
A Fonsagrada
A nice and quite big town with several albergues, hostels, and pensions. A good place to aim for in high season as there are many accommodation options. Attention! The municipal albergue used to be in Padron, 2km away from the town but it was moved now it is in A Fonsagrada next to the church.
- ATM – yes.
- Supermarkets – yes
- Restaurants, bars - yes
Places to stay in A Fonsagrada
- | Municipal albergue | Albergue Piñeiral Fonsagrada | Pension Casa Manolo | Hotel portico | Casa Marentes | Casa da Lembranza (1,5km past Fonsagrada, on the Camino |
Day 8. A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo Baleira, 25 km/15,5 mi
A Fonsagrada - Padron - Paradavella - A Lastra - Fontaneira - O Cadavo Baleira.
Weather-wise it was one of the worst days on our Camino, it rained from early morning, and we were wet, cold, and miserable.
Challenges
- One long down-hill
- Many uphills that sometimes were quite steep
O Cadavo Baleira
A small town with three albergues, one municipal and two private. There are shops but they all are closed on Sundays you have to bring food with you from A Fonsagrada or eat in one of the restaurants. There are a couple of bars a bit further away from the albergue that give you tapas for free if you order drinks.
- ATM – yes.
- Shop – yes
- Restaurants, bars - yes
Places to stay in O Cadavo Baleira
Day 9. O Cadavo Baleira to Lugo, 30 km/18,6 mi
Vilabade - Castroverde - Vilar de Cas - Gondar - Castelo - Lugo.
We'd suggest starting the day early in order to have more time in Lugo, it's a nice city with a lot to see. The municipal albergue in Lugo has only 40 beds so if you arrive late you might not get a spot but there are many private albergues and hostels there. You can get breakfast and coffee at Vilabade there is a food kiosk there, and people who run it will open a local church for you, and tell you a little bit about the Camino Primitivo (if you understand Spanish).
Highlights
- The umbrella fountain in front of the church in Castroverde looks amazing if it rains.
- The historical town of Lugo; has impressive huge Roman walls, a Gothic cathedral, and cobblestone streets.
- Calle de Los Vinos in Lugo (street near the cathedral), don't miss it, especially over weekends, there are several bars where if you order drinks you get free tapas, small beer 1,20 Euro, big - 2 Euro.
- Bakery Meson de Crecente in Lugo is across the road from Puerta de San Pedro.
Challenges
- Long distance, 30km, relatively flat with one uphill in the beginning.
- A little bit of walking on the road but most of the time there were no cars.
Lugo
A big city with a beautiful historical center behind the old Roman walls; cobblestone streets, a cathedral, churches, museums, etc. Some of our Camino friends, who arrived too tired for walking around the city, stayed here for two days to have a chance to see it. Remember, you're not allowed to stay for two nights in the municipal albergue but private albergues won't mind.
- ATMs – yes.
- Supermarkets – yes. The next day there will be no shops on the way if you want to buy something buy it in Lugo.
- Restaurants, bars - yes
Places to stay in Lugo
- | Municipal albergue | Hostel Cross | Hostel O Miño | Hotel España | Hotel Méndez Núñez | Exe Puerta San Pedro |
Day 10. Lugo to San Romao da Retorta (Castrelo), 20 km/12,4 mi
Lugo - San Lazaro - San Vicenzo do Burgo - San Romao da Retorta/Castrelo.
It would have been an easy walking day and we were planning to walk further to the next place but it rained very hard, we were completely wet and decided to stop at San Roman da Retorta. As an option to make your next day shorter you can walk 5km more and stop at A Covela (there is only one private albergue there).
Highlights
- Nice view of Lugo and the Old Roman bridge from the outskirts of the city.
- A beautiful walk through the forest.
Challenges
- A half of the day walking on the road though not very busy.
San Roman da Retorta (Castrelo)
Both places are the same village, there is nothing here except for one municipal and one private albergue with a restaurant.
Places to stay in San Romao
| Municipal albergue, 8 euro | Casa Castrelo |
Day 11. San Romao da Retorta/Castrelo to Melide, 28 km/17,3 mi
Ferreira (O Carballal) - As Seixas - Casacamino - Irago de Arriba - Melide.
Last day of walking without crowds of pilgrims on the trails. There are several restaurants on the way where you can stop for lunch or coffee.
Highlights
- Some parts of the trail through the forest. To be honest, the last three days of the Camino Primitivo are less impressive than the first part.
Challenges
- Some uphill walking though not steep or long.
Melide
The Camino Primitivo merges with the Camino Frances in Melide. For the last two days, you walk on the French Camino. When you reach the city don't be surprised there will be hundreds of pilgrims there. The last part of the French Way from Sarria is the most popular Camino route. No need to worry about accommodation, there are many albergues, including one municipal for 120 people. The town is famous for pulperias – restaurants where you can eat pulpo (octopus cooked with spices).
- ATMs – yes.
- Supermarkets – yes
- Restaurants, bars – yes
Places to stay in Melide
Day 12. Melide to O Pedrouzo, 33 km/20,5 mi
Melide - Boente - A Fraga Alta - Ribadiso da Baixo - Arzua - Calle - Salceda - Mojon - O Empalme - Santa Irene - A Rua - O Pedrouzo.
After the quiet Camino Primitivo, you start walking on the French Camino with hundreds if not thousands of other pilgrims. There are many coffee shops, restaurants, albergues on the way, every 5km at least. To get from the Camino Primitivo to the French Way was like coming out of a quiet forest right in the middle of a big and busy city.
Challenges
- Quite a bit of walking along the road
- Hundreds of pilgrims on the route, especially after Arzua
- Distance, 33km - the longest day on the Camino
O Pedrouzo
Don't know if this place would exist without the Camino, the town is only one street with many albergues, restaurants, cafes, etc. There are several private albergues/hostels and hotels as well as one municipal albergue. We didn't stay here we decided to challenge ourselves and walked to Santiago in one day, 53km. It was tough but we made it by 6 pm and were quite happy to be finished one day earlier and have more time to explore Santiago.
- ATMs – yes.
- Supermarkets – yes
- Restaurants, bars – yes
Places to stay in O Pedrouzo
| Albergue O Trisquel | Pension Maruja | Pension 23 | Pension Diana | Pension 9 de Abril |
Day 13. O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, 20 km/12,4 mi
O Pedrouzo - San Paio - Lavacolla - Monte do Gozo - Santiago de Compostela.
On the last day on the Camino Primitivo, we'd suggest starting early if you want to make it to the Pilgrim Mass at 12 pm (there is a Pilgrim Mass at 7.30pm as well). Remember you're not allowed to enter the cathedral with a backpack you can either leave it in your albergue or at the Pilgrim's Reception Office, 100m from the cathedral.
The easiest option is to stay in one of the albergues on the way to the cathedral you can just drop your backpack there and continue walking as we did.
Highlights
- Stunning forest right after O Pedrouzo.
Challenges
- The last 10km of the walk are not well marked, no distances, and you basically follow the crowd.
The Camino Primitivo offers beautiful forest and mountain scenery. If you'd like to add some sea views to complete the picture we can recommend a 3-4-day walk from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre - "the end of the world". If you don't feel like walking anymore but still would like to visit Finisterre and Muxia capes you can do a day bus tour from Santiago.
Santiago de Compostela the end of the Camino Primitivo
There are many great things to do in Santiago de Compostela to keep you busy for a couple of days from going out for wine and tapas to visiting museums and doing day trips to the coast.
There are many great places to stay in Santiago de Compostela from albergues to luxury hotels and spas.
Places to stay in Santiago de Compostela
- Budget | Dream in Santiago | Albergue Turistico la Credencial | Santiago KM-0 |
- Middle price | Hotel Windsor | Hotel Fonte de San Roque | Hotel Hórreo by Bossh! |
- Luxury | Hotel Praza Quintana | Prador de Santiago Hostal Reis Catolicos |
Tours and activities in Santiago de Compostela
If you have a couple of days in Santiago you can spend some time exploring the city and its surroundings.
- Excursion to Finisterre + Muxia + Costa da Morte (7 stops)
- Santiago de Compostela Cathedral and Museum Guided Tour
- Excursion to Rias Baixas with Winery - Optional mussel boat
Camino Primitivo route planning resources
- Get helpful Camino tips | Tips for planning the Camino de Santiago |
- Extend your Camino journey to Finisterre | Camino Finisterre-Muxía walking guide |
- The history of the Original Way
- The history of Santiago de Compostela
- Spiritual preparations for the pilgrimage
Questions or Comments?
Got any questions or comments? We would love to help! All questions and comments will be answered by us personally in Buy Me a Coffee. Click below and ask away.
Feel free to support our site by buying us a coffee!
LIKE THIS POST? PIN IT!
The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.
Just came back from the Camino Frances and this has me planning my next Camino. Thanks for a helpful and detailed itinerary. Isobel in Montreal
Hello, Isobel. Thank you for the comment. The Camino Primitivo is a beautiful route I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
Cheers
Planning to do the Primitive route in September 2022.
Is September to late to start that route.
thanks for all the information you guys share
Hello, Martha. Thank you for the comment. The first half of September will be fine for walking the Camino Primitivo. Late September might be rainy and chilly up in the mountains. We walked it in June and got quite a bit of rain so you can't be 100% sure but I think the first two weeks of September is a good time.
Buen Camino
Hi there, thank you so much for all the effort you put in this website - it is highly informative and very useful! I am a solo traveller and can only start my camino mid-october. It's the camino primitivo that looks most appealing to me. The only fear I have is that I don't find a place to sleep. You mentioned that many albergues on this route close during off-season. From your experience: do you think I would always find a place to sleep even if some of the albergues are already closed or do I really risk of not having a place to sleep at all?
Also, because I was so worried about walking end of October/first week of november that I was thinking about shortening the camino by starting from Tineo in order to increase my chances to have a place to sleep. Do you have any thoughts on this, like does it even matter if it's end of October or beginning of November and is there a way to come from Oviedo to Tineo by bus for example?
I would highly appreciate your help!
Thanks a lot! Eva
Hello, Eva. Thank you very much for the comment. Some albergues on the Camino Primitivo might be closed but not all of them there will be accommodation available. Some albergues can be booked online (check our PDF files) if you're really worried you can book accommodation in advance to make sure you'll have a place to sleep. My main concern for walking this route late October-beginning of November would be the weather. We finished the Northern Camino and Camino Finisterre at that time of the year and had very bad weather; cold, a lot of rain, and strong wind. Our friends walked the Primitivo the same time and got trapped for a couple of days due to heavy snowfalls in the mountains. You might be lucky and have good weather but the chances of bad weather are quite high.
There are buses from Oviedo to Tineo, the drive takes about 1h30min. You can check on the ALSA website and even buy a ticket online, it's about 8 Euro.
Buen Camino
@Stingy Nomads, thanks a lot for that helpful response! Stay safe and happy!
Hi! Any advice for a solo (young) woman traveler on this trek?
Thanks!
Hello, Rebecca. First of all, I'd definitely recommend buying a local Spanish SIM card. You can get one (e.g. Lyca Mobile) for 10 Euro that is valid for 28 days and includes data, local phone calls, and SMS. Many shops and supermarkets sell these prepaid SIM cards. Make sure to add emergency phone numbers like local police, etc. to your phone. I'd recommend downloading an app called AlertCops. It's a Spanish app that you can use anywhere in the country to report in case you get in trouble. It's a free app that works in several languages.
It's better to walk the Camino Primitivo in the season (June to August) when there are more people on the route not only pilgrims but day hikers and mountain bikers. There are usually quite a few pilgrims that walk solo you can always team up with somebody to walk through more remote parts of the route. Staying in albergues is the best way of meeting people.
Usually, people start walking at about the same time and walk at more or less the same pace you keep seeing the same people every day several times on the route.
Always stick to the main route don't take optional routes or detours those usually have far fewer people and are more isolated.
I, personally haven't heard or read any complaints of solo female pilgrims being bothered on the Camino Primitivo but it's always better to take precautions. Usually, pilgrims are very protective over young solo females hikers.
I hope it helps!
Buen Camino
Hey Nomads,
Thanks for the brilliant blog post! The walk looks beautiful. I'm thinking of doing the Primiivo August 6th - onwards.
A couple of Questions:
1. Where do you recommend flying to/ from? I'll be arriving from London but may start at La Mesa/Lugo.
2. Do you know whether Albergues/ Shops/Bars are open in Asturias at the moment with all the C-19 stuff?
3. I probably only have 9 days to do this trip - where best to start that? I was thinking of starting at La Mesa since you mentioned that was the most beautiful walking section. Do you think that is feasible?
Many thanks, wishing you all the best,
Sam
Hello, Sam. Thank you for the comment. The Camino Primitivo is a stunning route. I think Lugo will be the best option to start as it's a big town and it's easy to get there by bus from other Spanish cities. You could fly to Santiago de Compostela and take a bus to Lugo from there. If you want to walk longer you can start for example in Pola de Allende by local bus from Oviedo. I don't think you can get by bus to A Mesa it's not even a village just an albergue and a restaurant in the middle of nowhere. I believe you can take a taxi from Pola de Allende. I'm not sure you'll have enough time to complete the Camino from there if you have 9 days in total though.
As of now, some public and private albergues on the Camino Primitivo are closed but many are open I think you'll be able to find accommodation along the route. Restaurants and hotels in Asturias and Galicia are currently allowed to be open. Nobody will be able to tell you what´s going to happen in August it might stay the same or change back to some sort of lockdown and restrictions. We live in Portugal and everything changes every week, different regions and provinces apply different measures and restrictions.
Buen Camino
Hi folks. My wife Elizabeth and I are planning to walk the Primativo this fall (late Sept 2021). Do you have suggestions for how to keep the days to no more than 20 km? Thanks again for all your hard work.
Hello, Mike! Thank you for the comment. At the beginning of the post in the grey block, there are two downloadable PDF files one contains a suggested itinerary for the Camino Primitivo with all stops along the route and distances between places, the second one contains accommodation along the route. You can use them to create your own itinerary with daily distances averaging 20 km or less.
Buen Camino
Is there an app that includes grid coordinates for my Garmin just in case I lose the path? Or an app that has way points that I can follow with a topo map on my phone to check that I'm the correct route from time to time?
Hi, Terrence! There are some Camino apps but I'm not sure if you can use them with your Garmin watch. Some apps are free, for some you have to pay. You can search in App Store or Play Store to find if there is any that you like. There is a list of apps for the Camino Primitivo at the end of this post. We have never used any apps or GPS tracks on any of the Camino routes it wasn't necessary, the route is marked very well all the way from the start to the end with yellow shells and arrows.
Buen Camino
@Terrence J Rooney, Im actually looking for the same right now. If you have the Alltrails app, you can apparently sync with your Garmin Watch, I think there is a bicycle route allready there too, but it starts before Oviedo too, but I think that would work. If you go there before me please add a another trail route for El Camino Primitivo on the All Trails App so I can also sync it with the watch. And I will check on it when its there. Thanks.
Hi, Daniel. The cycling route doesn't always coincide with the walking route, there are some parts over the mountains on a footpath that are very difficult to cycle and cyclists go on the road. I can assure you if you don't have the trail on the app or your watch you'll be totally fine just following yellow shells and arrows that mark the Camino Primitivo all the way from the start to the end.
Cheers
Hello and thank you for the wonderful guidebook. How many people would a person meet on the Camino Primitivo on a day in July? (I like nature but I like chatting with other pilgrims as well.)
Hello, Terrence. Thank you for the comment. July is the peak season for the Camino Primitivo there are usually people on the route but it won't be overcrowded like the more popular Caminos. We walked it in June and there were enough people to chat on the way. Many solo pilgrims team up and walk together some days, go out together, etc. The company is not a problem on the Camino in the peak season.
Buen Camino
@Stingy Nomads,
Thank you. One more question: Are there farmer's dogs that nip and bite in the Spanish countryside? I'm not very good at "staring down" agressive dogs.
There were no street dogs walking around you might see some behind the fence but they aren't any danger to you. No dog problem on the Camino Primitivo.
Cheers
This detailed site has truly encouraged me to do this trip on my own. God has placed this trip on my heart to do, once my mother passes. Caring for a parent with dementia and having a full time job has been beyond stressful. I feel like my own wings have been strapped down and I can't fly. Once I regain my freedom, I will also allow myself to grieve and what better place to contemplate on this current journey with my mom, but in a long, beautiful walk. Please know your site truly has given me the tools to begin planning.
Hello, Emma! Thank you very much for the comment! We wish you all the best and hope to meet you one day on the Camino de Santiago. Walking the Camino is an incredible experience that's helped many people to overcome their grieve and traumas.
Buen Camino!
You guys are amazing, thank you so very much for sharing. I've been planning to walk el camino for years, not enough time, money, etc. I'm planing to do el camino del norte (mostly due to genealogy research) next year. I'm 34 and my partner 37, we are very active people. I was thinking of doing El camino del norte that passes by all the villages of my ancestors, I do need to go to Oviedo for research so doing the Primitivo makes perfect sense. We were considering not stoping at Santigo but continuing to Porto. Is this realistic to do in 2 months? I was thinking of doing el camino del norte and primitivo with my partner and then if not enough time, I could do Santiago to Porto alone.
Muchas Gracias
Hello, Jess! Thank you for the comment! It's possible to do del Norte + Primitivo to Santiago and Santiago to Porto in 2 months. I'm not sure if you've ever done a long walk before it's a bit different from just exercising regularly, doing day hikes and runs. Walking over 1000 km is exhausting not only physically but emotionally especially if it's your first long walk don't underestimate the Camino. 2 months is enough time to have a couple of short breaks along the route or in between the Caminos. I'm sure you can do it just prepare yourself that some days you won't feel like it anymore especially if it's a rainy, cold or long day. We did del Norte (without the Primitivo as we'd done it before) and from Santiago continued walking to Finisterre which is another 118 km. It took us about 36 days to walk 950 km we didn't have any rest days. Your total distance all the way to Porto will be about 150 km longer. The important thing don't start walking long distances from the beginning let your body get used to it. After a couple of weeks you'll be able to walk over 30 km a day but not from the start you might get terrible blisters and spoil the experience.
Buen Camino!
Thank you so much for putting all this up.
My wife and I have dreamed for a long time of doing the Camino.
My only issue is one of vertigo - I’m not good walking on paths with vertical drops.
How was the Primitivo on this?
Thanks
Hello, Martin! There are hardly any vertical drops or edges on the Primitivo, you do go up and down quite a bit but it's all over the hills and fields. I don't think you'll have any problems on this route.
Buen Camino!
Hey, I’m planning on walking the Primitivo this summer. I’m wondering if I walk it at my leisure and not rush, is it easy to change flights if I end up staying longer or finishing quicker than I expected? Plan on 17-18 days?
Hello, Shawna! How easy or difficult to change your plain ticket depends entirely on the airline and on the chosen tariff (economy, flexible, business, etc.), there is no general rule. It's better you find it out before you book your tickets. 18 days are more than enough to complete the Primitivo even if you walk short days. Most people do it in 12-14 days. If you finish quicker you can spend a couple of days in Santiago there are many things to do. If you feel like walking more from Santiago you can continue walking to Cape Finisterre, another 3-4 days.
Buen Camino!
Hello!
Thank you so much for all the detailed info, you guys rock!
I am planning to take the Primitivo next year (May or June) and I was wondering if it is safe for a single female traveller. I understand that there are other pilgrims and the towns are safe, but what about the trail itself (what if I walk alone for hours in the forrest etc.)? I am not the panicky type but still decided to ask 😉 Thank you!
Hi, Ella! Thank you very much for the comment! I've walked only one Camino as a single female (the French Camino) in September I didn't have any issues at all. The Primitivo is a more isolated route than the Frances though if you walk it in June there will be more people. I don't recall any dodgy or unsafe places on the Primitivo it was all peace and quiet. There were a couple of single female pilgrims on the route nobody complained or had any problems. It's usually easy to team up with somebody and walk together. After a week or so of walking the Primitivo, we all knew each other. I'm sure if for whatever reason you don't want to walk alone you'll be able to find a company.
Buen Camino!
@Stingy Nomads, thank you!
Hello! I am interested in doing a camino next year (if the virus allows). I am South African and I'm curious how to go about getting a VISA when you can't prove where you'll be staying etc..?
Hello Bronwyn, thanks for reading. You contact your local Camino association, Confraternity St James of South Africa. They will issue you with a letter for visa purposes that state you are going to walk the camino and stay in albergues. You can also purchase your Pilgrim Passport and other Camino items from them, they are very helpful. Buen Camino!
Phone number and email contacts on their website
https://www.csjofsa.za.org/
Hi Guys,
Firstly thanks so much for all the detailed information!
I am a keen trail runner and am thinking about running parts of the Primativo (mixing it up between hiking and running parts each day), I am going to go in mid-August. I know you guys were there in June but do you think trail runners would be OK for the route?
Thank you!
Clare
Hi, Clare! Thank you for the comment! The Primitivo is an amazing route for trail running probably the best Camino route for it but the trail can get quite muddy if it rains. We walked in our hiking shoes (not really waterproof) and our feet were wet all the time. In August it shouldn't rain too much though. If it's not wet trail runners will be fine. We know some people who walked in October and didn't get much rain we were just very unlucky with the weather in June. I hope it helps!
Buen Camino!
Hi guys,
nice post, and nice Camino. I did the Primitive Way some years ago and it's amazing. The part in Asturias is really lovely. Maybe in Hospitales it's a bit tired to get the top, but the hardest day deserves the best views. And it's not fully of pilgrims, when Primitive join the French Way, it's not the same, something changes. For me, the best Way.
I just wanted to say that your blog on the Primitivo Camino route is fantastic with the listing of mileage and accommodations and food options. It is really appreciated. I hadn't really considered this route as I have limited time away from work and was considering starting in Ourense onward and then traveling around Spain and Portugal, but with all the Cornavirus and if I am still able to do it this year, maybe just doing the Primitivo as a complete route would work best and then next year Camino Frances. Thank you for your blogs and Youtubes! Buen Camino!
Hello, Donna! Thank you very much for the feedback! The Primitivo is a very beautiful route we'd like to walk it again one day. It's a good route to walk in summer June - August. Outside of the summer season you might get quite a bit of rain. We'd like to go back to the Camino this year! Hope for the best!
Buen Camino!
Hello, I really enjoyed your articles on both the Camino Portugues and Camino Primitivo. My boyfriend and are are trying to decide which to do. We absolutely love nature but we also want to experience the camino culture, while trying to avoid crowds. We love hiking and backpacking. We are planning our trip for mid May. Which would you recommend? Thank you so much.
Hello, Madeleine! Thank you for the comment! You can experience the Camino culture on both routes there are albergue, pilgrims, route marking etc. The Primitivo is more about nature while the Portuguese is more about culture and towns and the sea if you walk the Coastal Route. The Portuguese is definitely busier than the Primitivo. Weather-wise the Portuguese is probably better than the Primitivo in mid-May but you might be lucky with the weather on the Primitivo as well. Both routes a beautiful we walked them in one go with a two-day rest in Santiago in between.
Buen Camino!
Hi, your website is full of great info, thank you! We are very fit adventure hikers eager to do about 4-5 days of hiking to San Juan de Compostela. For example, we can cover 100km in 3 long days or 125km in 5 days. Something like that. Where would you recommend we start? We are planning for the first half of June and typically prefer the more scenic, less crowded routes. Thanks!
Hello, Nancy! To be honest the last 100km on any Camino is not the most spectacular part and definitely not the less crowded. The Camino Primitivo and del Norte merge with the Camino Frances at the end which means there are many people on the route. The Portuguese Camino is less busy but the last 100km the route doesn't come close to the sea neither it goes through the mountains, it's more of countryside and towns and in the season there are quite a lot of people walking the last 100km on the Portuguese Camino from Tui. As an option you can walk the Camino Ingles the whole route is 116km, it starts in Ferrol, it's a less popular route through Galician forest and countryside. Another route is Camino Finisterre-Muxia, it's about 120km but it doesn't end in Santiago de Compostela, it starts there, it goes to the coast through the forest at the end you get to see some beaches and the sea.
Cheers!
@Stingy Nomads, I just came across your blog and I love all the detailed information! I am dreaming of doing any camino since a long time. A couple of years ago we moved to the region of Ferrol, means we are super close now and I am back researching where to go and what to do. There is a rather new long distance trail (~ 200km) which follows the costa da morte from Malpica to Fisterra called Camiño dos Faros. It's not an original Camino de Santiago but it follows the stunning coast at all times. Beautiful nature and most likely not too crowded. I have not done it yet, but I have been at places where it goes through.
Hello. Thank you for the comment. We've heard a lot about the Camino de Los Faros it sounds amazing. But as far as I know, there are few accommodation options along the route. Some days you have to call a taxi to take you to the nearest hotel. It's quite inconvenient and expensive. Accommodation in the area is quite pricey as well I think for many people the cost of the walk will be an issue. For these reasons I don't think many pilgrims will choose the Camino de Las Faros as an alternative to the Camino de Santiago.
Cheers
This site is a Godsend! I am trying to decide whether to start in Irun or SJPdP and connect over to the Camino Primitivo in Oviedo. My timeline is a bit late...starting in early October and looking to finish by early to mid November. Any thoughts on the primitivo that late in the season?? And any idea whether the Camino del Norte or Camino Frances will have more favorable weather? Thank you all so much!
Hello, Karlee! Thank you for the comment! We walked Del Norte in October, the first 3 weeks the weather was great but by the end of the month it got very rainy, we had days of non-stop rain but it was everywhere in Galicia not only on del Norte. Some of our friends went to Oviedo and continued on the Primitivo they got heavy snowfalls there and got stuck for a couple of days but in the end, managed to get through. I'm walking the French Camino right now and it's incredibly busy, September is the peak season I guess in October there will be significantly fewer people. As for the scenery from what I've seen by now on the French route (I've been walking for one week only) the Camino del Norte was more impressive; sea, beaches, cliffs, forest etc. The French route has some nice parts but if I had to choose I'd walk del Norte. I'd suggest you, to check the forecast before you switch to the Primitivo and if it's going to rain rather keep walking on the French or del Norte. I guess the weather will be pretty much the same on del Norte and Frances both routes are not that far away you might be lucky or not.
Buen Camino!
Hi, you mentioned hostels being closed in the off season, would there be enough open in late October early November to make the route viable?
Thanks for the guide!
Hello, Jeff! Thank you for the comment! I'm not sure if the municipal albergues will be open in November but I believe some private albergues and hotels stay open in October-November. Our friends walked the Primitivo last year end of October-November and they didn't have any problems with accommodation but the weather was quite bad; cold, a lot of rain and two days of heavy snowfalls. I'm currently on the Camino Frances in Galicia and it's already pretty chilly and rainy here.
Buen Camino!