The Carretera Austral - your 2024 guide
Traveling the Carretera Austral or Route 7 in Patagonia is a lifetime adventure. The legendary road in Chile offers incredible scenery, a unique ecosystem, and a thrilling feeling of being in the wilderness. If you want to go off the beaten track, discover new places, do wild hikes, and meet wonderful people, Chilean Patagonia is right.
We spent one month exploring the region. During that time we did several long-distance treks in Patagonia, spent weeks camping in the wilderness, and visited many off-the-beaten-path places. Patagonia is a region on the tip of South America divided by two countries Chile and Argentina. Chile is home to many of the best National Parks in Patagonia. We loved this unspoiled region and want to return one day to explore more of the Carretera Austral, the ultimate place to travel for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers.
If you have to choose a couple of places to visit in Chile I'd say the Carretera Austral and San Pedro de Atacama are not to miss there. On Argentina's side don't miss the Perito Moreno Glacier and Laguna de Los Tres, both located in the Los Glaciares National Park.
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What is the Carretera Austral?
Carretera Austral or Rute 7 is a road in the Patagonia region of Chile in the extreme south of South America. The road connects the southern part of the Los Lagos Region and the Aysen Region of Chile. It's known as a wild and beautiful region and a great place for a holiday filled with adventures.
Why we love the Carretera Austral
- The Carretera Austral is an unspoiled and spectacular region with many parks and nature reserves.
- There are many outdoor activities to do here like hiking, kayaking, rock climbing, cycling, etc. It’s a real paradise for nature lovers.
- There are many amazing day hikes in Patagonia; the majority of hiking trails don’t require special permits or guides.
- Despite being a wild region there are no dangerous animals like bears or wolves to be worried about. There are pumas living in the area but they’re very shy and try to stay away from people.
- Patagonia is a relatively safe place (as safe as a wild place can be). It's probably the best place in South America to travel solo.
- Traveling the Carretera is a lifetime experience.
Facts about the Route 7
- Total distance - 1240 km/770 miles
- Starting point - Puerto Montt
- Finishing point - Villa O'Higgins
- Road conditions - ongoing road works, half of the way has been already paved, half is still in process.
- Best season to travel - December - March, Patagonian summer
- The cost of traveling - from US$20 per person (low budget) to US$90 pp. (comfortable)
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The history of the Carretera Austral
The construction of the Carretera Austral started in 1976 when Augusto Pinochet gave the order to connect remote villages of southern Chile with the rest of the country. Building the southern road was the most ambitious and expensive project in Chile in the 20th century.
Due to difficult terrain, weather conditions, and remoteness of the region the construction of the Carretera Austral took decades. The last stretch connecting Puerto Yungay and Villa O'Higgins was finished in 2000. Nowadays it's an ongoing process of paving the road. Most parts of it are tarred but some are still gravel.
Where does it start and end?
The Carretera Austral starts in Puerto Montt, a beautiful town in the Lake District in southern Chile. From Puerto Montt, the road continues south to the extreme south of South America.
The Carretera Austral ends in the small village of Villa O'Higgins, in the Aysen Region in the south of Chile.
How much time do you need to explore it?
It depends on how many stops you want to make on your road trip and how long you want to stay in each place. I'd recommend having at least 1 week to drive the Carretera Austral. It gives you time to see the highlights of the region, do a couple of day hikes, and enjoy the tranquility and beauty of Chilean Patagonia. Spending 2 weeks driving the Carretera Austral would be perfect. The more time you have the better there are so many amazing places to visit that we could easily spend there a month or two.
Is the Carretera Austral paved?
The Carretera Austral is a permanent road construction site due to difficult rocky terrain, narrow fjords, mountains, rivers, and lakes it takes a lot of time to pave the road. Add to these unpredictable Patagonian weather; snow in winter, strong wind, and rainfall in summer, and an isolated location it takes a long time to get necessary construction vehicles there.
As of August 2023, Ruta 7 can be divided into two parts. The northern part from Puerto Montt to Coihaique 660 km/410 mi is paved with a bit of unpaved road here and there. The southern part from Coihaique to Villa O'Higgins 580 km/360 mi is still mostly gravel road. It's planned to complete paving the Carretera Austral in the next years. Some parts between the towns have already been paved. When planning your trip keep in mind that it is much faster to travel on paved roads than on gravel.
When is the best time to travel?
The spring/summer months of November to March are the best time to travel the Carretera Austral. Average daily temperatures reach 20°C. At night it goes down to 15°C. It's warm and sunny, the days are long, and all tourist facilities are open.
Patagonian weather is unpredictable even in the peak summer you can get days with heavy rains and hail. The wind is something to consider as well. December and January are the windiest months of the year. Even if it's warm and sunny it can be very windy. It's not a big problem if you travel by car and or stay indoors. If you cycle and camp you might have to adjust your plans according to the forecast.
Good weather attracts a lot of people. January and February are the busiest months on the Carretera Austral. It's a summer holiday in Chile and Argentina. If you decide to come during that period it's highly recommended to book accommodation, bus tickets, and activities long in advance.
We prefer to travel to the Carretera Austral in November or March when the weather is still good and there are not too many tourists.
If you're planning to visit Torres del Paine and hike the famous W trek then the period between November and March is the best time to visit the park.
Carretera Austral travel cost
Accommodation
Camping is the most budget option here considering that in many places you can wild camp if you don’t mind being without basic facilities of course. You can find established campsites in every town or village on the Carretera Austral. The average price CLP 7000/US$8 per person/per tent (depending on the campsite).
Some bigger towns like Futaleufú or Coyhaique have traditional hostels with shared rooms and facilities, they cost about CLP 15000/US$17 per person.
Hotels/guest houses are very common in the area there are many from very basic cabins to luxury spa lodges, here everything depends on your budget, be ready to pay from CLP 20 000/US$23 to CLP 40 000/US$46 per person. In general, for the price you pay in Patagonia in other countries, you can get better facilities.
Transport
Hitchhiking is the cheapest option to move around though it can be a bit frustrating and time-consuming. Cycling won’t cost much money as well but it will take a lot of time, to cycle 1200 km partly on the gravel road is quite a mission.
Taking buses is not crazy expensive but sometimes you might get stuck in a place due to irregular bus service or no open spots on the bus. Buses connect the main towns on the Carretera and it’s possible to get around this way but you’ll have to plan. Buses to some places to go only a couple of times a week. The average price for a ride is between CLP 10 000/US$11 and CLP 15 000/US$17 depending on the distance. For long-distance buses e.g. from Puerto Montt you'll pay from CLP 20 000/US$23.
Renting a car is the most comfortable way to travel the Carretera Austral and probably the most expensive though it depends on what car you rent and how many people you share it. The longer the rental period is the cheaper it gets per day. To rent a 5-seat sedan in Puerto Montt for 5 days will cost US$136 or US$27 per day if you’re more than two people it might be cheaper than taking buses. You can always find someone to share a car with once you hit the road.
Food
Making food is by far the cheapest way to eat in Patagonia. Groceries in shops are more expensive than in the rest of Chile but they are still affordable. Eating out is expensive in Patagonia, the food is quite basic. If you want to save money on food, book places with a kitchen or carry a camping stove (if camping). Buying food in shops costs CLP 10 000/US$11 per person per day. Eating out from CLP 10 000/US$11 per meal.
Activities and entrance fees
Hiking is free on the Carretera Austral. There are places where you pay the entrance fee but it’s usually between CLP 10 000/US$11 and CLP 20 000/US$23. Other activities are more pricey, e.g. doing a boat tour in Queulat National Park costs US$40 per person, hiking on Exploradores Glacier in Puerto Río Tranquilo from US$60, etc.
You can find more details about the cost of traveling in Patagonia.
Traveling the Carretera Austral with different budgets
- Backpacking (camping, hitchhiking, making food, doing free activities like hiking) - from US$20 per person per day.
- Traveling with comfort (budget hostels, buses, making food, some paid activities) - from US$50 per person per day.
- A luxury holiday (nice hotels, rental car, making food/eating out, paid activities) - from US$100 per person per day.
For the ultimate adventurous and hiking holiday combine a trip along the Carretera Austral with Torres del Paine National Park. The park offers a great variety of hiking routes from easy day hikes to challenging multi-day treks.
The highlights of the Carretera Austral
Puerto Montt
It's the beginning of the Carretera Austral and the last big town for the next 660km till you reach Coyhaique. Make sure to draw money and stock supplies if you drive a car. I’d suggest doing a big shopping here. Besides being the starting point of the Carretera the town itself is quite nice and beautiful. If you have time we’d suggest staying here for a couple of days and exploring the area there are quite a few things to do.
Pumalín Park
There are two access points to the Parque Pumalín; Caleta Gonzalo and Sector Río Amarillo. If you coming from Puerto Montt you get first to Caleta Gonzalo, the ferry from Hornopirén arrives there. This park is an incredible place with many hiking trails and several campsites. It was a complete surprise for us we didn’t plan to stop here but in the end, we spent 5 days hiking and camping in Pumalín Park. The entrance is free.
Futaleufú
It's a beautiful town on the border with Argentina, the first place on the Carretera Austral where you can cross to the neighboring country. The scenery around Futaleufú is breathtaking; pine forests, mountains, rivers, and waterfalls, are the ideal place for outdoor activities.
Things to do in Futaleufú
- Hiking, there are many trails near the town e.g. Piedra del Águila, Garganta del Diabolo, Circuit Las Escalas.
- Kayaking/Rafting on Río Futaleufú
- Horseback riding
- Rock climbing
- Rappelling/ziplining
Futaleufú is quite a detour, 77 km east of the Carretera Austral most people stop here on the way to Argentina. Even if you’re not planning to cross the border it’s worth coming here. There are public buses from Chaitén and Puyuhuapi.
Queulat National park
Parque Nacional Queulat is a grat place to come for a day. It's located just 20 km south of Puyuhuapi. The park offers several one-day hiking trails with breathtaking views of the Colgante Glacier (hanging glacier), lakes, and rivers. Entrance fee - CLP 8000/US$9 (adults), CLP 4000/US$4 (children). You can camp in Queulat National Park for CLP 10 000/US$10 per person.
Activities
- Hiking, there are two trails, the longer one to the Mirador (viewpoint) and the shorter one to the lake.
- Kayaking
- Boat ride to the glacier
Coyhaique
It's the biggest city in the northern part of the Carretera Austral. There are a couple of supermarkets and gear shops, it's a good place to stock food supplies. There are not many activities you can do in the town, it’s a stopover place with the best infrastructure you can find in the area. We spent two days here mainly because I lost my backpack on the way (it fell out of a truck that picked us up on the road) so we had to do quite a bit of shopping.
Cerro Castillo
Villa Cerro Castillo is a tiny village on the Carretera Austral. It’s worth stopping here only if you’re planning to visit Cerro Castillo National Park otherwise you can skip it. There are two trekking routes in the park; a short day hike to the lake and back and a 4-day Cerro Castillo trek. For the second one, you’ll have to carry camping gear and food supplies. The park entrance fee for 1 day is CLP 20 000/US$23 per person, for 2+ days - CLP 30 000/US$34.
In busy months (January, and February) it might be difficult to get a bus from Cerro Castillo. All buses come from Coyhaique and are usually already full when they stop. We saw some people couldn’t get in and were forced to hitchhike.
Puerto Río Tranquilo
The Carretera Austral from Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Tranquilo goes past stunning blue, turquoise, and greenish lakes and turquoise rivers. The town is located at General Carrera Lake an impressive emerald color lake. If you have a chance, check the lake out at different times of the day, the color changes depending on the light from dark blue to light green.
Río Tranquilo is a great place to stop for a day or two and enjoy some adventure activities other than hiking. Here you can do a boat tour to the Marble Caves or hike Exploradores glacier wearing crampons and a helmet and carrying an ice axe. It is the cheapest glacier hike you can do in Patagonia, CLP 45000/US$65 per person including transportation and gear.
The weather is very unpredictable and boat trips are often canceled due to very strong winds.
Chile Chico
This town like Puerto Río Tranquilo is located on the shores of Lago General Carrera so stunning views are guaranteed. Chile Chico is 100 km east of the Carretera Austral on the border with Argentina, it’s the last point to cross the border before Villa O’Higgins.
There are several activities to do from here but you’ll need a car or a shuttle to get there first;
- Enjoy the scenery at the Laguna Verde, on the way, about 20 km before the town
- Hiking to the Jeinimeni Lake in Jeinimeni National Reserve
- Hiking the Piedra Calvada Circuit, a 10 km route with a steep ascent and a subsequent descent. This route can be combined with Jeinimeni Lake, it’s on the way.
Cochrane
This town is often unnoticed by tourists which is easy to explain; after days of exploring the natural wonders of the Carretera Austral and several hikes, travelers feel like finally getting to the end of the route. There are just too many amazing places. Though Cochrane deserves a stop for a day. I’d rather stay here than in Caleta Tortel.
The town has good infrastructure and several cozy guesthouses. It’s located close to Cochrane Lake and Tamango National Reserve another hidden gem of Patagonia. There are a couple of hiking trails in the park and along the lake that offer beautiful scenery. The entrance fee is CLP 5000/US$7.
Caleta Tortel
A tiny village with a wooden boardwalk instead of streets which is the main attraction there. The landscape of this remote area is quite impressive; fjord with mint-color water, forest, hills, etc. We walked around for a couple of hours and it was enough. Getting here without a car is a mission. If you have a car or get a ride it's worth a short visit.
Villa O’Higgins
The end of the legendary Carretera Austral and the dead-end of the road. If you drive a car there is no way to go forward. To get anywhere from here you’ll have to drive back. For people, without a vehicle, it’s possible to use ferries and walk/cycle to cross from Chile to Argentina and continue your hiking adventure in El Chalten or visit the impressive Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate. If you like exploring off-the-beaten-track areas you might like a hiking trail to O'Higgins Glacier.
The town is tiny with only a gravel road that connects it to the rest of the world, it does give a feeling of being somewhere in a very isolated place, literally at the end of the world.
How to explore the Carretera Austral?
Road trip
Renting a car is by far the most comfortable way of traveling along the Carretera Austral. Many places can be reached only by car. Having a car gives you a lot of flexibility. Keep in mind the road conditions of the Southern Highway. A short distance doesn't necessarily mean a quick drive.
It’s more expensive than taking buses but you’ll have the freedom to go anywhere you want considering that buses don’t go everywhere. If you’re more than people renting a car might be even not much more expensive than taking a bus.
Driving the Carretera Austral it's important to consider ferries. In many places to continue the trip, you need a ferry. When planning your road trip check for ferries and if possible buy tickets.
Traveling by buses
It’s a good alternative if renting a car is not an option because it’s too expensive. Buses are one of the most popular ways of traveling the Carretera Austral. In the high season, buses fill up quickly. It's sometimes difficult to get a seat. It's highly recommended to buy tickets in advance. If tickets are purchased only on a bus then you should come to the bus stop early to make sure you get in. Buses don’t go everywhere but they do go to the main towns on the Carretera.
If you travel by bus there is no need to worry about ferries. Your bus ticket includes all necessary ferry rides. We didn’t use buses but saw once or twice that some people couldn't get on a bus because there was no space. It was at Villa Cerro Castillo, and there was only one bus a day going from Coyhaique towards Puerto Rio Tranquilo.
Hitchhiking
It might be the most fun way of traveling the Carretera Austral because you meet many locals, make new friends, and at the same time the most time-consuming and sometimes frustrating. In the peak season, there are so many people hitchhiking that sometimes it can take hours to get a ride.
We spent two months hitchhiking the Carretera Austral and other parts of Patagonia and loved it but one time was enough. Next time we’ll rent a car and will stop to pick up hitchhikers! Hitchhiking does work pretty well in Patagonia and Chile in general remember if you go in January, or February you'll have a lot of competition mainly from local students who are on holiday.
Cycling the Carretera
It's probably the ultimate adventure and the best way to travel the Carretera Austral. We would love to do it one day. When we were there we were quite jealous of cyclists. It's a completely different way of experiencing the region and seeing things. We met both first-time cyclists (not many though) and experienced travelers and for both cycling the Carretera Austral seemed to be quite challenging.
The weather here is very unpredictable, it gets very windy, and all of a sudden it starts raining so you must be prepared for tough days and long distances. Having the right gear and a good bicycle is important. It can be very challenging to cycle all 1200 km if you're not a seasoned cyclist, so it’s better to do a section of the route.
Getting by ferries to the Carretera Austral
There are several port towns on the Carretera Austral where it’s possible to get by ferry. It might be a good option for those who want to get to Patagonia from Chiloe Island or prefer boats to buses and cars. Depending on how far you go by boat you skip some parts of the Carretera, mainly in the north.
Ferry routes for the 2024/25 season
Puerto Montt - Chaiten - leaves Tue at 12 pm. Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri, and Sat at 11 pm. The journey is 9 hours. Price CLP 35000/US$38* per person, CLP 165 000/US$190 per car.
Puerto Montt - Puerto Natales - leaves every Friday at 4 pm. The cruise takes 4 days and 3 nights. It operates from the 25th of October to the 7th of March. Price from US$500 per person.
Quellón (Chiloe) - Puerto Cisnes - leaves Tue at 6 pm, Wed at 10 pm, Thu at 11.50 pm, Sat at 5 pm, Sun at 11 pm. It takes 12 hours. Price CLP 50 000/US$53** per person.
Quellón - Puerto Chacabuco (makes 9 stops on the route) - leaves every Wed and Sat at 11 pm. It takes 28 hours. Price CLP 47 300/US$50.
*Mon, Thu, and Fri ferries have special tariffs of CLP 19 200/US$20 per person.
**Tue, Thu, Sat ferries special tariffs of CLP 20 200/US$21 per person
Carretera Austral travel tips
Bring camping gear, you'll need it, it saves a lot of money and increases your chances of finding accommodation during the peak season.
Always have snacks and ready-made food with you in case you get stuck in the middle of nowhere.
Every time you are in a place with an ATM, draw money, it can be a problem on the Carretera Austral, in some places, it's difficult to get cash.
If you run out of cash and there are no ATMs nearby you can try to find a petrol station (usually they accept cards). Wait for a car to come and ask the driver if you can pay by card for petrol and get back cash. You can do the same in a shop.
Always have cash enough to pay for entrance fees, camping, and food. Many places don't accept cards.
Bring a stove and cooking set because not all campsites have a kitchen. Buying meals at cafes and restaurants is expensive, but cooking will help to save money.
Be ready to have bad or no Internet connection, if you want to download books/movies/maps do it before you get to the Carretera Austral.
Everything in Patagonia is more expensive to save money, so buy camping gear and clothing beforehand.
Where to find ATMs?
In larger towns there are ATMs and many places accept cards. In smaller towns finding an ATM is a problem. It's always a good idea to draw cash every time you get a chance. Most hotels and supermarkets accept cards but campsites, small grocery stores, buses, etc. often don't.
- Puerto Montt is a very busy town with many shopping malls and ATMs.
- Hualaihue, has two ATMs on the main square only one of them works with international cards, and supermarkets accept cards.
- Caleta Gonzalo (Pumalin Park), no ATMs, only cash.
- Chaitén, no ATMs. Credit/debit cards are accepted in a few places, can buy bus tickets only in cash.
- Puyuhuapi, no ATMs, no cards accepted.
- Coyhaique, a couple of ATMs, credit/debit cards accepted.
- Villa Cerro Castillo, no ATMs, only cash.
- Puerto Río Tranquilo has no ATMs, some tour operators accept cards, and some shops accept cards.
- Cochrane, two or three ATMs on the main square.
- Caleta Tortel only cash.
- Villa O'Higgins, no ATMs, some shops accept credit/debit cards, campsites and ferries mostly cash.
What to pack for the trip?
Those who’re planning to camp and hike in Patagonia will need camping gear and we’d recommend bringing good quality stuff, especially a tent, you’ll need one that can deal with strong winds and heavy rains.
A sleeping bag should be for lower temperatures. We had one summer sleeping bag (14C comfort) and had to use it with a fleece inner otherwise it was too cold to sleep in it.
A sleeping pad can be either a cheap foam one or a blow-up, we prefer the second option as it’s more comfortable for sleeping and can fit in the backpack.
Cooking gear is good to have. Many campsites have a kitchen you’ll still need your pots and utensils as those are usually scares. You’ll need a cooking set when going on a multi-day trek. Gas for camping stoves can be bought almost at any shop on the Carretera Austral.
Comfortable shoes are a must-have for those who’re planning to hike, waterproof shoes are better as you can get quite a bit of rain even in summer. More details on gear and clothing can be found in our Patagonia packing list post.
Recommended books and guidebooks
- Lonely Planet Chile & Easter Island (Travel Guide). Kindle and paperback.
- Patagonia on a budget by Matthew Morgante. How to travel Patagonia on US$30 a day, Kindle.
The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.
Hello Alya,
We found your site very interesting as we are preparing a trip to Chile and Argentina for March and April. As regards the Carretera Austral, we intend to rent a 4x4 car in Puerto Montt and give it back in Punta Arenas. On our way, we intend to pass the border to Argentina at Chile Chico then, get back to Chile at the Cancha Carrera/Cerro Castillo border to go to the Torres Paine Park. We plan 4 weeks to travel along the Carretera Austral.
- Are these borders always opened?
- What do we need to pass the borders with a rented car?
- Do we need to book the hotels now for March/April?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Hello Patrick and Monique. Thank you for the comment.
The last updates that I could find online on the border opening times are: the Paso Rio Jeinimeni border (Chile Chico) is open daily from 8 am to 8 pm and Paso Rio Don Guillermo border (Cancha Carrera) daily from 8 am to 9.30 pm.
We have never rented a car in Chile or Argentina so I don't know what paper work you need for the border crossing. The best it to contact the rental company and let them know you're going to cross the border I'm sure they'll be able to provide all necessary documentation. There are many people with rental cars who cross borders between Argentina and Chile. I'm sure rental agencies know what you need.
I don't think it's necessary to book accommodation long in advance if you're going to travel the Carretera Austral in March - April. It's the low season unless you want to walk one of the multiday treks in Torres del Paine (the W or the C trek). Then it's better to book campsites on the trail in advance.
Cheers
Alya,
Very much enjoyed your synopsis of traveling the Carretera Austral. We're leaving our home in MN next week and I hope this email reaches you today and that you are able to respond quickly. My question is this...are there any self serve laundry's along the way where we can do our own laundrys? We're renting a motorhome in Bariloche and driving down to O'Higgins and many hikes along the way. Any advice?
Thanks
Jeff
Hello Jeffrey. I can't recall many self-service laundries on the Carretera Austral as we did ours in hostels we stayed. In bigger towns like Coyhaique there should be laundries. As an option you can stay a night here and there in a hostel and do your laundry there or inquire in hostels how much they will charge for doing laundry.
Good luck
Hi there - wondering if you can help assist in some planning. I am going with a group to do the W trek in Torres del Paine, along with kayaking by Glacier Grey, horse riding and cycling in the park. I was thinking of going down 4-5 days early and visiting the Lakes Region via Puerto Montt; then I saw your posting on Perito Moreno and now I am wondering if there is something else I should do with that time. Thoughts?
Thank you
Hello Christine. Thank you for the comment. We spent some time in the Lake Region and it was beautiful but you can't compare it to Perito Moreno Glacier. It's one of the largest glaciers in the world accessible from the land. If I were you I would spend the extra 5 days in Argentinian Patagonia, stay for 3 days in El Chalten and 2 days in el Calafate (Perito Moreno). El Chalten is the hiking capital of Argentina, the famous Fitz Roy mountain is there. There are many day hikes with spectacular scenery. From El Calafate, you can get a direct bus to Puerto Natales, the closest to Torres del Paine town. You can find more details on El Chalten and Perito Moreno in these posts https://stingynomads.com/el-chalten-trekking-guide/ and https://stingynomads.com/perito-moreno-backpackers-guide/
Good luck
Hi,
Love your blog and all the info on it! We are planning to travel the Carretera in February with a 4x4 with a sleeping unit on the back. I am trying to book campings along the way to have access to a toilet, running water, etc. But I find it difficult to find contact information (only telephone numbers). Do you know if we need to book these campings in advance and if so, how far in advance and how best to go about it.
Thank you so much!
Best,
Jorrit
Hello Jorrit. Thank you for the comment. We traveled the Carretera Austral in February and didn't book any campsites. We always could find a spot but we were traveling only with backpacks I'm not sure if it's easier or more difficult to find a spot for a 4x4. Overall there are many campsites along the route if you don't find a spot in the first one just drive to the next. Having your own sleeping unit makes it easier. I would suggest booking the campsites near the major attractions if you're planning to continue more south e.g. Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno, etc. On the Carretera, you should be fine.
Cheers
Thank you for this detailed information, I also really enjoyed your post on crossing villa o’Higgins by ferry & foot and understand there is news of this reopening. I have 5 weeks in Chile prior to hiking the O Circuit and would love to explore Carrera Austrel on the way. My question is regarding pre-purchasing bus tickets. Is there a website for this or how do you arrange this? Thank you!
Hey,
Thanks for all the information in this article! I am planning on hitchhiking along the Carretera Austral solo in January during about 4 weeks. However after reacing Villa O'Higgins I was planning on traveling further via El Chalten and El calafate to Puerto Natales to take the plane back from there. Depending on the time I have left I would then also want to make some daytrips to the Torres del Paine national park. I read your other article aswell on the trip from O'Higgins to El Chalten (thanks for that).
However I was wondering if it would be better to start my trip from Balmaceda airport or just from Puerto Montt if I were to continue on towards Puerto Natales? I am not sure if I might have to rush to make it south if I would begin at Puerto Montt. The struggle I am having is that I don't know what is the best place to fly back to Santiago after reaching Villa O'Higgins as I didn't find many options close to there.
So do you think Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales is doable in 4 weeks while hitchhiking? Or is starting from Balmaceda airport a better? Thank you very much!
Cheers, Kees
Hello Kees. Thank you for the comment. First, the border crossing from Villa O'Higgins to El Chalten (Caleta Gonzalo) is currently closed. It's been closed for a couple of years due to the pandemic. There is no information on when and if they will open it again. So crossing at O'Higgins is not possible. In given circumstances, the best will probably be starting in Puerto Montt and going south on the Carretera Austral till Balmaceda. From there crossing to Argentina and continuing south through El Chalten and El Calafate and then crossing back to Chile and visiting Torres del Paine. You can fly back to Santiago from Punta Arenas. It's the nearest to Torres del Paine airport. There are direct flights to Santiago.
4 weeks should be enough to complete the route. Keep in mind that January is the busiest time in Patagonia with many local students hitchhiking you'll have a lot of competition. I wouldn't rely only on hitchhiking especially in Argentina where people don't tend to stop as much as in Chile. I would suggest for longer distances e.g. from Balmaceda to El Chalten using buses and for shorter parts hitchhiking.
Cheers
Heya, thanks for the great article! Is there anyway to get from Puerto Natales to Villa O'Higgins? I'm planning to do the O Trek and slowly make my way back up to Puerto Montt in March next year. It would be good to be able to head in the one direction from Puerto Natales to O'Higgins, then up along the Carretera Austral. Many thanks in advance, Vicky
Hello Vicky. Thank you for the comment. To get from Torres del Paine to Villa O'Higgins you have to go through Argentina. From Puerto Natales go to El Chalten. As far as I know, there is no direct bus from Puerto Natales to El Chalten. You'll have to go through El Calafate. From El Chalten, you can cross to Villa O'Higgins. The crossing involves ferries and walking. It takes 3 days to get from El Chalten to Villa O'Higgins. We have a detailed post on it https://stingynomads.com/villa-ohiggins-el-chalten-how-to-get/. We crossed in the opposite direction but it's pretty much the same both ways. From Villa O'Higgins, you can start going up along the Carretera Austral.
Cheers
Hi,
One more question re driving Carretera Austral. I am planning to drive from Puerto Mont to Balmaceda. Any suggestions re rental car companies that allows me to pick up at PMC airport and drop at BBA airport. I can only find Hertz and they do not allow online booking and their USA number was not very helpful. I need an automatic car. Europcar is another alternative but they do not have automatic cars. Makes a lot of sense to drive one way even though it is very expensive, but I am even having trouble finding cars.
My plan is to visit TdP first and then fly to PMC — visit the area and then drive Carretera Austral — drop car at BBA and fly back home to USA. If easier, I can think about going from TdP to BBA and then drive to PMC but the flight from Punta Arenas to BBA is only once a week.
Any thoughts or suggestions you have would be very helpful. I am solo traveler.
Thanks,
Anil
Hi, Anil. I checked a couple of local car rental companies and couldn't find any automatic cars. None of them allow you to drop a car at Balmaceda airport. The closest I've found is at atrapalo.cl you can rent a car in Puerto Montt and drop it at Coyhaique but they have only manual cars. I'd suggest sending them an e-mail maybe they can arrange an automatic car for you.
If renting a car doesn't work I'd suggest using buses it's easier and cheaper. E.g. you can take a bus from Puerto Montt get off at Coyhaique or Balmaceda, fly to Puerto Natales and visit TdP.
Another option is to fly to Puerto Natales to visit TdP, from other take a bus to El Calafate and visit Perito Moreno Glacier and then continue to El Chalten, an amazing place with many hiking trails and stunning scenery. This way you won't travel the Carretera Austral but visit the main highlights of Patagonia. You can fly out from El Calafate airport.
Best of luck!
@Stingy Nomads, thank you very much. Very helpful.
HI,
I am considering driving Carretera Austra from Puerto Montt to Villa Higgins, but a bit worried since I am solo. I would like to rent a car. I am not good with changing tires etc on my own. Are the roads bad enough to get into a flat tire situation? Are there services to help in case a car breaks down on this road? Are there guided tours to take me ont his road? Let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Anil
Hi, Anil. The road is not too bad, some parts are tarred, some gravel. There are towns and villages along the Carretera Austral I'm sure you'll be able to find help if you get a flat tire or a break-down. Locals are very nice and always try to help travelers if you get stuck along the route there will be people willing to help you. You can always travel by bus and get off at the places you want. It might be an easier option for a solo traveler.
Cheers
Thank you for the great info you provide. I rode the carratera austral from Puerto Montt to Caleta Tortel with a Surly Troll and from there sailed on a ferry to Puerto Natales (Jan 4 - Feb 11/2019). I rode solo, but often met friendly cyclists along the way and wild camp with them. As a single female, I felt safe; nonetheless, one ought to remain aware of their surroundings. The scenery and night skies along the carretera and during sailing were fabulous. Town shops had nutritious food and potable water. Chileans I met were lovely and very helpful; many could assist in English.
Watch out for your bank cards: One of mine was compromised during a transaction causing annoying complications. Some gravel (ripio) sections were very rough, and often muddy or dusty. Traffic was fast and rough sections had no shoulder. You do need a reliable tent and gear, extra food, a water filter/purifying tablets and a stove. Weather was wild with heavy rain and wicked winds, which made riding challenging. In Puerto Natales, I took a bus tour to Torres del Paine. I regret not hiking that amazing area. Next, I flew to Santiago de Chile, stored my bike and some gear at my hostel, and flew to lovely San Pedro di Acatama and fascinating Easter Island. What a trip!
France, thank you very much for your detailed comment. I'm sure it'll be very helpful for those who're planning to cycle the Carretera Austral. Your Chile trip was the ultimate adventure!
Cheers!
hello there thank you for the extensive information on this blog of which we have enjoyed thoroughly: big question we are driving from stgo to Puerto Montt in feb 2021 and are trying to a make our way to Torres del Paine without hopping on a plane. How do you go about getting to Torres with a car from Puerto Montt when the main ferry is temporarily closed?
Hello, Filippo! I'm not aware of the current ferry situation but if they're not operating the best way of getting to Torres is driving through Argentina. You can cross before Bariloche and drive all the way past El Chalten until the border cross near Puerto Natales. It's the best and the fastest option if the border between the two countries is open.
Cheers
Thank you for your post! Very good tips!
We are planning to go there at the end of next year, and starting in Puerto Montt. We have only one week to spend there... any advice on how far should we travel?
Thank you!
Rory
Hello, Rory! Depending on how you're going to travel by car, buses, or hitchhiking. Renting a ca is the easiest and fastest though the most expensive way you can drive quite far south. Traveling by bus you'll be a bit more limited. Hitchhiking works very well on the Carretera but it's time-consuming. Our favorite places along the Carretera are Pumalin Park (there are many short day-hikes there), Queulat National Park ( a short hike to the hanging glacier), Cerro Castillo (we did a 4-day trek but it's possible to walk to the Mirador and back in one day from the town), Lago General Carrera (beautiful marble caves and glacier hiking). I'd recommend stopping at these 4 places, they offer a great variety of hiking trails and other outdoor activities.
Good luck!
I found this blog for chance and I'm really loving it. Great job guys!
I am thinking about cycling the Carretera, north to south. Where is located the closest airport I at the end of the carretera in order to reach Santiago or another big airport of South America?
Sorry if you wrote this already, I just did not find the information.
Thanks a lot for this amazing article,
Roberto
Hello, Roberto! Thank you for the comment! The best option for you might be going back from Villa O'Higgins (if you're planning to go all the way) to Balmaceda, it's about 500km, I believe you can get on a bus with your bicycle you'll probably have to pay extra for it. From there you can fly back to Santiago, there are direct flight for about 80US$. Another option is to cross from Villa O'Higgins to El Chalten (we have a post on it) two ferries and a little bit of cycling and from El Chalten cycle or take a bus to El Calafate, about 200km. From there you can catch a flight to Buenos Aires for about 100-120US$.
Cheers!
@Roberto, how do you pay for the ferry? Tried to do it online but Webpay won't accept US Visa or American Express. I like to be able to reserve it so we have a spot on the ferry with the camper.
This is an amazing blog, Thanks for sharing! I had a couple of questions.
You mention the Carrera Austral meets a dead end at Villa O Higgins. If we start at Puerto Montt and rent a car, are the options to drop off at Villa O Higgins and then fly back north? Or do we drive up? Also are automatic transmission rental cars available or is it mostly manual transmission cars?
Hello, Jajabor! Thank you for the comment! I don't think you'll be able to drop a rental car at Villa O'Higgins, it's a tiny place with no car rental offices. As for automatic or manual transmission cars, you can check it here it's indicated in cars' description if you click on the link in this post (renting a car section).
Cheers!
Hi Guys! congratulations and thank you very much for this amazing blog. so many useful informations.
I will be traveling with a friend by car on the carretera austral in january. from puerto montt and leaving the car in balmaceda. we have 7 days to do it.
I know it s quite short so i was wondering what part of the road / places and what excursions you would prioritize in such a period of time?
would be super helpful !
Thanks again for your advices
Jean
Amazing amazing information!!! Thank you for taking time and putting it together. I have been reading a lot of blogs to find detailed information. But your article just nailed it. We are planning to drive through Rt7 in February 2020.
Hello, Yasmin! Thank you very much for the feedback! I'm sure you'll have a great time on the Carretera Austral!
Cheers!
Hi, amazing blog, thank you so much!
Maybe you can advise - we are going to Chile with my boyfriend in January for 3 months. We are planning to go to Carretera Austral at the beginning of March and travel south to north since at the beginning we are focusing for two months on trekking in the southern part of Patagonia. I am searching everywhere but I am still not sure - is it more difficult to travel south to north in terms of buses, ferries etc or it doesn't matter? Also, do you think it makes sense to take a bus/hitchhike from Villa O'Higgins to Coyhaique, rent a car there and drive to Puerto Montt? Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks a lot!!!
Hello, Magda! Thank you for the comment! As I know it doesn't matter which way you travel buses and ferries go both ways with the same regularity they have to get back somehow anyway. If you're planning to hike the O circuit in Torres del Paine I'd suggest checking till when it's open I'm not sure if it closes in sometime in March or in April. As for renting a car for me, it makes perfect sense to get to Coyhaique and rent it there I don't think you can do it in Villa O'Higgins. Traveling through Patagonia by car gives you a lot more freedom and flexibility than moving by public transport.
Enjoy the trip!
Hi! Thanks for all this. A maybe silly question that I have is: If you start in Puerto Montt and drive south for a few days, can you just turn around go north again to go back to Puerto Montt? I've seen a number of posts that say the carretera austral is one-way so I'm wondering if I need to make plans to return through Argentina.
Hello, Hillary! Thank you for the question! You definitely can drive both ways the Carretera Austral is not one way road but it ends with a dead end in Villa O'Higgins.
Safe travels!
Hi you guys,
Love your Blog!!
Second day on it and still reading :). So much useful information to travel Patagonia, which is perfect for planning the trip for ourselves now!
Just wondering how weather and hitchhiking conditions would be outside of tourist seasons.. We would be doing the Carretera Austral in May-June. Less tourists, but also less people to take us, I guess. And what about the weather? Have some information or heard stories about that period of the year?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Sil
Hello, Sil! I believe in winter it will be quite challenging to hitchhike and not sure about camping it'll probably have to stay in hotels and hostels. Most of the people who live along the Carretera Austral probably stay for winter season. I know that in El Chalten in Argentina almost everything closes for off season, there are very few people staying in the town. I'm not sure about the hikes, some routes are closed for off season due to snow and cold weather but you'll still be able to visit the parks but won't be able to do multi day routes. As for the weather in northern Patagonia it doesn't get very cold, above 0C but it can rain quite a bit, in southern part it can go below 0C and snow.
Cheers!
Hello,
Thank you for your posts, they've been a huge help in planning my backpacking trip next month! I've never hitchhiked before and am wondering how safe it for a woman to hitchhike alone throughout Chile and Argentina? Or even Peru? Also where did you get the materials to create your signs? and did you carry them with you on your hikes?
Thanks so much for your help,
Christelle
Hi, Christelle! We're glad our posts were helpful!
We think Patagonia both Chilean and Argentinian sides are safe for hitchhiking for a girl, at least we've never heard from anybody about any problems. Chile in general is safe, drivers tend to stop for girls more often than for guys or couples. In Argentina I would hitchhike alone but not to the north from Buenos Aires towards Brazil that area looked a bit dodgy for us. We haven't hitchhiked in Peru at all, bus prices were not that bad but my girl friend did and she was robbed twice hitchhiking in Peru, the second time she lost everything including her passport. So in Peru we wouldn't recommend to do it alone.
We used a pen marker and cartoon boxes to make our signs and made every time a new one there were enough old boxes everywhere. If you have more questions don't hesitate in asking!
Good luck!
Awesome, thanks so much for your reply! Im sorry to hear that about your girlfriend in Peru, definitely will not attempt.