Torres del Paine 2022 – a backpacking guide

Torres del Paine is a famous national park in Patagonia with incredible scenery and amazing hiking trails. Thousands of people come here for backpacking every year, as a result, it gets quite crowded during the season. The park has good infrastructure; well-marked trails, designated campsites, picnic areas, restaurants, shops, hotels, rangers’ posts, etc. Torres del Paine is definitely a not-to-miss place in South America.

You can come to the park as a day visitor and do one of the day hikes in Torres del Paine or spend more time and complete one of the multi-day backpacking routes: the W trek or the O circuit. In this post, you can find the necessary information to prepare for backpacking in Torres del Paine.

If you like the outdoors and wilderness you might enjoy trekking in El Chalten, Argentina. There are several day hikes and long-distance treks that offer fantastic scenery.

Torres del Paine National Park

• The National Park was established in 1959.
• It is located in Southern Patagonia, Chile.
• The total area of the park – 181 400 ha.
• It got its name after three granite peaks of the Paine mountain range that look like towers (Torres in Spanish mean “towers”).
• About 300 000 people visit Torres del Paine every year, 60% of them are foreigners.

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What is Torres del Paine famous for?

Torres del Paine National Park is famous for its dramatic Patagonian landscape, bizarre rock formation, massive glacier, and numerous turquoise lakes. The most famous attractions in the park are the granite peaks of Torres del Paine and Cuernos del Paine, Grey Glacier, Pehoe Lake, and Nordenskjold Lake.

What does Torres del Paine mean in English?

The name Torres del Paine has a mixed origin. The first part of it “Torres” is from Spanish and means “towers”, the second part of it is from one of the indigenous languages and means “blue”. Together it means “blue towers”. The name refers to the three outstanding granite peaks (grey/bluish colors) of the Paine mountain range shaped like three towers.

Visiting Torres del Paine in the 2022/23 hiking season

Visitors have to book their Torres del Paine entrance tickets online at least 24 hours before the planned visit. This measure was implemented in 2021 due to the COVID situation and as of July 2022, it is still in force.

The entrance fee varies depending on the number of days you’re going to spend inside the park. The entrance fee for up to 3 days in the park is US$35 per person; the entrance fee for more than 3 days is US$49 pp.

You can print your tickets or show them on the screen of your mobile device at one of the park entrances.

If you’re planning to do one of the long-distance treks you have to book the campsites along the route in advance and have booking confirmations with you to be able to access the park.

The O Circuit in the 2022/23 hiking season is open from the 1st of November.

The W trek can be walked starting from September according to the opening of the campsites and Refugios along the route. The Central campsite Central opens on 8th September, and the Chileno and Frances campsites open on 10th September.

Bring your passport with you to the park. All bookings are made on your passport details. To keep your documents and phone dry on the trek use a waterproof pouch.

There is limited cell phone reception in the park.

Hikers in all the time inside the park must stay on the marked trails.

Camping is only allowed at designated campsites, wild camping is strictly prohibited.

No open fires are allowed inside the park.

Using a camping stove is allowed only at designated areas at the campsites. In the 2022/23 season due to the high risk of forest fires, it’s not allowed to use camping stoves at the Chileno campsite.

Water in the park is potable, using purification systems e.g. LifeStraw is optional.

All waste must be carried with you outside the park (some private campsites have rubbish bins).

Torres del Paine hiking distances and times

Trails (stretches)	Distances	Required times
Paine Grande – Campsite Italiano	7.5km/4.6mi	2h30min
Campsite Italiano – Mirador Britanico	5.5km/3.3mi	3h
Campsite Italiano – Campsite Frances	2km/1.2mi	30min
Campsite Italiano – Los Cuernos	5km/3mi	2h30min
Los Cuernos – Hotel Las Torres	11.6km/7.2mi	4h30min
Hotel Las Torres – Refugio Chileno	5km/3mi	2h
Refugio Chileno – Campsite Torres	3km/1.8mi	1h30min
Campsite Torres – Mirador Las Torres	1.4km/0.8mi	1h
Hotel Las Torres – Campsite Seron	13km/8mi	4h
Campsite Seron – Campsite Dickson	18km/11mi	6h
Campsite Dickson – Campsite Perros	12km/7.4mi	4h30min
Campsite Perros – Campsite Paso	8km/5mi	6h
Campsite Paso – Refugio Grey	7km/4.3mi	5h
Refugio Grey – Paine Grande	11km/6.8mi	3h30min

Backpacking routes in Torres del Paine

The park is massive some parts of it are accessible only on foot or by boat, and some can be reached by car. There are many one-day hikes and two multi-day backpacking routes in Torres del Paine. All trails are well-marked and easy to follow. The routes start at different places inside the park before getting there choose which one you want to walk.

Day hikes (more than 15 routes)	W trek	O circuit
Distances between 5-20 km/3-12 mi	distance – 100 km/62 mi days required – 3-4	distance – 134 km/83 mi days required – 7-8

• Day hikes – there are many day-hiking trails in Torres del Paine. From short and easy 5 km routes to challenging 20 km trails. You can do several day hikes and stay in the park for a couple of days or do two or three short hikes in one day.
• W-trek – a 100-kilometer backpacking trail. You need 4 to 5 days to complete it. The route takes hikers to the main highlights of the park.  
• O-circuit – a 134-kilometer loop around the park. You need 7-8 days to complete the trail. The circuit covers off-the-beaten-path areas of Torres del Paine as well as its famous landmarks. The O trek is open only during the summer season from 1st November to April.

If you’d like to visit the park and see the highlights but don’t have enough time for hiking you can visit Torres del Paine with a day tour from Puerto Natales.

Other suggested day tours from Puerto Natales

• Full-day Torres del Paine and Milodon Cave
• Sierra Baguales Fossil Route Trek
• Balmaceda and Serrano Glacier navigation

Which hiking route to choose?

Depending on how much time you have and what kind of experience you’re seeking you can choose any of the suggested hiking routes.

Day hikes

Short hiking trails in Torres del Paine are some of the best day hikes in Patagonia. They vary from short and easy child-friendly routes to challenging trails. The scenery throughout the park is spectacular whichever route you choose you won’t be disappointed.

Advantages

• You can walk with a day pack, no need to carry a heavy backpack.
• You can stay indoors if you don’t like camping.
• You can decide when and where to hike according to the weather conditions.
• You can spend more time trying to get a perfect photo shot or footage.

Disadvantages

• It’s more expensive if you decide to stay indoors and eat at restaurants. You still can camp and prepare your own meals
• It takes away a big adventurous part of backpacking.
• You won’t be able to see some off-the-beaten-path parts of Torres del Paine. 

W-trek 

Advantages

• It’s a good compromise between a day hike and a week circuit. This route takes 3-4 days to complete.
• The trail goes through the developed part of the park with hotels, restaurants, etc.
• You still have to carry food and gear but only for 3-4 days.
• If you don’t mind paying more you can even stay in hotels and eat in restaurants. 
• W-trek can be done as a 5-day fully guided tour from Puerto Natales.

Disadvantages

• This part of the park is very busy and gets quite crowded in the peak season.
• There are no free campsites on this route only private campsites and refugios (hotels).

O-circuit

The O Circuit is one of our favorite long-distance treks in Patagonia. If you enjoy hiking and wilderness I’d definitely recommend completing this route.

Advantages

• You get to see a large part of Torres del Paine.
• You get a chance to skip crowds; some parts of the trek are quite remote and not accessible for day visitors.
• It’s a true backpacking adventure. 

Disadvantages

• You have to carry a heavy backpack with gear, food, and clothes for 7-8 days.
• You’ll have to camp at least half of the time, there are no refugios and hotels in the northern part of the park.
• If you’re unlucky with the weather it’ll be a very long walk in the pouring rain and strong wind.

Torres del Paine hiking map

Torres del Paine map PDF

Accommodation in Torres del Paine

If you’re planning to do day hikes in the park the best option is to stay inside the park or in one of the nearby places, it’ll save you a lot of time compared to staying in Puerto Natales and spending 4-5 hours every day driving to and back.

Hotels and refugios

Accommodation inside Torres del Paine

All the hotels inside the park are quite luxurious; rooms with nice views, private bathrooms, heating, TV, towels, comfortable beds, and breakfast. Some have the option of a full board with 3 meals included.

• Middle price | Goiien House |
• Luxury | Hotel Lago Grey | Hotel Las Torres Patagonia | Explora Patagonia – All Inclusive |

Staying in refugios might be a little bit cheaper but if you add up to 3 meals per day it works out almost as expensive as staying at one of the fancy hotels just with less comfort. You can rent a tent or camp with your own gear inside the park check Camping in Torres del Paine section for more details on the option.

• Refugios Torre, Chileno, and Los Cuernos can be booked through Las Torres Patagonia.
• Refugios Paine Grande, Grey, and Dickson can be booked through Vertice Patagonia.

Places to stay outside the park

There are some places that are located just outside Torres del Paine which makes it easy to access different hiking trails in the park. Park entrance ticket is valid for several days you can stay outside the park and enter Torres del Paine again without paying the fee.

| Konkashken Lodge | Hotel Estancia El Ovejero Patagónico | Hotel Posada 3 Pasos | Río Serrano Hotel + Spa | | Patagonia Camp |

Camping

Inside the park, there are 11 campsites: 9 paid and 2 free. The campsites are run by three companies: CONAF (the National Forest Corporation) which runs free campsites Italiano and Paso; Vertice Patagonia (paid campsites): Grey, Paine Grande, Dickson, Los Perros; Las Torres Patagonia (paid campsites): Central, Cuernos, Francés, Serón, and Chileno.

Paid campsites have much better facilities but in the peak season, they get overcrowded to use any of the facilities e.g. shower or toilet you have to wait. Campsites in Torres del Paine can be booked online through the company’s websites. Don’t forget to print it and take your booking confirmation and passport with you.

CONAF (free campsites) CURRENTLY CLOSED	Las Torres Patagonia (paid campsites)	Vertice Patagonia (paid campsites)
Italiano	Central	Grey
Paso	Cuernos	Paine Grande
	Francés	Dickson
	Serón	Los Perros
	Chileno

CONAF (free campsites)

There are two free campsites that belong to CONAF, they have very basic facilities and are located next to the rangers’ stations. To get a spot in one of them during the peak season (December, January, February) you must book long in advance. As of July 2022, two free campsites (Paso and Italiano) in Torres del Paine can’t be booked. There is no information on when and if they’ll be open.

Vertice Patagonia

These campsites have better facilities than the free ones and the price is moderate compared to the other campsites in the park. The price for camping with your own gear is US$10 per person.

Las Torres Patagonia

The campsites run by this company are more expensive than the Vertice Patagonia ones. The price of camping with your own gear is US$25 per person for double occupancy; +US$12 supplement charge for single occupancy.

Campsites outside the park

Campsite Pehoe is a good stop for visitors with their own vehicles who are planning to do day hikes in Torres del Paine. The campsite is located at Pehoe lake.

For more information on camping in the park read our detailed post on the campsites in Torres del Paine. The information in the post is updated for the 2022/23 hiking season.

If you have time you can combine hiking in Torres del Paine with a trip to Perito Moreno Glacier near El Calafate, Argentina.

The cost of backpacking in Torres del Paine

Transport – bus Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine – US$20, return. Bus Hotel Las Torres – Laguna Amarga (the O circuit, W trek, and some day hikes) – US$5, one way. Catamaran Pudeto – Paine Grande (W trek, day hikes) – US$35 one way. 

Entrance fee – US$35 per person if you’re going to stay in Torres del Paine for 3 days or less; US$49 pp. if you’re planning to spend in the park more than 3 days.

Accommodation – hotels between US$130 and US$350 for a double room, depending on the location and facilities. Hostels – between US$40 and US$80 per bed. Private campsites are between US$10 and US$25. Currently, the free campsites in Torres del Paine are not operating.

Food – cooking your own food will cost you from US$10 per person per day; buying ready-made meals at the campsites in Torres del Paine is from US$19 per person for breakfast/box lunch to US$88 for full-board (breakfast, lunch, and dinner).

Gear rental (optional). You can rent camping gear (tent, sleeping bag, cooking stove, etc.). If you rent in Puerto Natales it’ll cost you between US$16 and US$25 pp. per day, depending on what you rent. It’s possible to rent camping gear at the paid campsites but it’s more expensive: US$32 for a 2-men tent, US$29 for a sleeping bag, and US$10 for a camping mat.

Tours in Torres del Paine (optional) – boat trip to Grey Glacier – US$120 pp.; hike on Grey glacier – US$154 pp.; kayaking to Grey glacier – US$100 pp.

Tour operators charge for a day tour from Puerto Natales US$60 per person, for a 5-day W-trek –  from US$900 (including transport, accommodation, food, gear, park entrance fee), for an 11-day O-circuit – from US$2500 (including transport, accommodation, food, gear, park entrance fee). 

Visit Torres del Paine with a tour vs independently

Hiking independently

Pros

• It’s much cheaper, especially for longer treks.
• It’s more adventurous.
• You’re more flexible.

Cons

• You carry a heavy backpack with gear and food for the whole trek.
• You pitch and break down a tent, make food, pack, etc.

Guided tour

Pros

• The preparation stage is easy; no need to book campsites, find buses, rent gear, or pack – all you have to do is to find a good company and pay. 
• The trekking part is easier as well; no carrying a heavy backpack, pitching a tent, cooking, packing, etc. You walk with a day pack and your guides do the rest.
• Usually, it’s more fun to join a group if you travel alone.  

Cons

• It’s more expensive.
• It takes away the adventurous part.
• All the trails in the park are well-marked and easy to follow, you don’t really need a guide to show you the way or to find the campsites.

Traveling with your own gear vs renting

Let’s compare prices of camping gear on Amazon.com and renting camping gear in Puerto Natales and at the paid campsites in Torres del Paine. If Torres del Paine is the only place you’re going to hike renting camping gear is the easiest option if you’re planning to do more hikes it’s worth bringing your own gear.

The easiest option for multi-day hikes in Tores del Paine is to rent camping gear at every campsite you stay in this case you don’t have to carry heavy gear but it’ll work out more expensive than renting it in Puerto Natales.

As for small stuff like a camping stove, pots, hiking poles, etc. if you don’t bring it with you from home it’s better to buy them in Puerto Natales renting small items for 5-7 days will cost you as much as buying them. After the hike, you can try to sell that stuff for less to other hikers.

Item name	Buying on Amazon*	Renting in Puerto Natales, per day**	Renting in Torres del Paine (paid campsites), per day***
2-men tent	from US$80	US$8	US$34
Down sleeping bag	from US$100	US$7	US$29
Inflatable sleeping pad	from US$30	US$3	US$10
Camping stove	from US$13	US$3	–
Cooking set	from US$18	US$5	–
Hiking poles	from US$20	US$5	–
Down jacket	from US$50	US$4	–
Waterproof jacket	from US$30	US$4	–

• *Prices are for Amazon US.
• **Rental prices at Rental Natales and Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales
• ***Gear rental prices at Vertice Patagonia campsites

Best time for backpacking 

The answer to the question When is the best time to visit Torres del Paine? depends on many factors. Patagonia has four well-defined seasons; Spring from September to November; Summer – from December to February; Fall from March to May; winter from June to August. Summer and the beginning of fall is the best time for hiking in Patagonia. Temperature; December, January, and February are the warmest months when even night temperatures are quite comfortable. April and November – are shoulder seasons; warmish days and not cold nights. 

In this part of Patagonia wind is the main problem. It gets very windy which makes pitching a tent or cooking on a camping stove quite complicated. The beginning of the summer November – January are the windiest months in Torres del Paine. February is the most comfortable month with less wind and warm temperatures. April to September is the least windy period but it’s too cold for hiking, plus long treks are closed for the off-season.

As you can see chances of rain are pretty even throughout the year, summer and fall months get quite a lot of rain, February again is the best month for hiking in Torres with the least rainfalls. In winter the chances of rain are quite small though it can snow.

Day duration in summer in Patagonia is quite long, up to 18 hours of daylight! You have long hiking days even if you start later you’ll have enough time to complete a stretch with the sun still high up. November – February it basically gets dark around 11pm, and the sun rises between 4am and 5am. In winter daylight hours are half as long as in summer.

From all the above you can make a conclusion that February is the best month for trekking in Patagonia and for traveling the Carretera Austral. It’s warm, with little wind and rain, and long days but it’s the busiest month for the park with the most visitors coming here. If you want to skip summer crowds you might consider visiting lesser-known parts of Patagonia e.g. Pumalin Park or Cerro Castillo National Park.

November, December, and March might be a better option if you want to skip the crowds, plus all hiking trails are already or still open, but these months get quite a bit more rain and are windier. We hiked in March and were lucky with the weather, out of 7 days in the park we had only 1 rainy day and it wasn’t pouring rain, and the wind didn’t bother us too much.

Wildlife in the park

In high season chances to see wild animals in the busy part of the park (W-trek, day hikes) are quite small but you still can be lucky. We saw most animals on the O-circuit, in more remote parts of the reserve.

If you’re lucky you can see a puma and our friends did see one walking near camping Serron one morning. Grey and red fox – you have good chances of spotting them on the longer routes. Huemul – local deer, we saw a couple of them but from far. Guanaco – a bigger and wilder version of a llama. You can see some other animals in Torres del Paine such as the Patagonian skunk, dwarf armadillo, rabbits, condors, etc.

Places to stay in Puerto Natales

If you’re planning to do one of the multi-day hikes in Torres del Paine then staying in Puerto Natales is probably the best option. There are many places for different budgets from campsites and backpackers to fancy guesthouses and hotels. Puerto Natales is a town where you can find all you need to prepare for hiking; ATMs, shops, gear rental places, etc.

• Budget | Hostal Backpacker Cortes | We are Patagonia Backpacker | Refugio Hoshken | Forte Patagonia |
• Middle price | Patagonia Adventure Hostel | Hostal Treehouse Patagonia | Puma House | Pire Mapu Cottage |
• Luxury | Toore Patagonia | Weskar Lodge | DT Loft | Hotel Costaustralis |

Recommended books and guidebooks

In the last years, rules in Torres del Paine have changed quite a lot make sure to buy an updated guidebook.

If you prefer reading e-books, join Amazon Kindle Unlimited to get access to thousands of e-books and audiobooks. You can use it on any device (phone or tablet) not only a Kindle all you have to do is to install a free app.

• Lonely Planet Chile & Easter Island (Travel Guide). Kindle and paperback.
• Classic Hikes of the World; 23 Breathtaking treks by Peter Potterfield. To get some inspiration for future adventures. Hardcover.
• PATAGONIA, Tierra del Fuego: Smart Travel Guide for Nature Lovers, Hikers, Trekkers, Photographers by Oleg Senkov, 2019. Paperback, Kindle
• Patagonia on a budget by Matthew Morgante. How to travel Patagonia on US$30 a day, Kindle.
• Walking Patagonia by Caspian Ray. It’s more of a fiction story rather than a hiking guide. Kindle & paperback
• To Shake the Sleeping Self: A Journey from Oregon to Patagonia, and a Quest for a Life with No Regret by Jedidiah Jenkins. Paperback, Kindle & Audiobook.

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