The W trek in Torres del Paine – 2022/23 season

The W trek in Torres del Paine National park, Patagonia is a stunning route with some of the most beautiful landscapes in a Patagonian National Park. The trek is a good compromise between day hikes in Torres del Paine and the challenging O-circuit. The W route takes hikers to all highlights of the National Park including the Mirador Las Torres, Grey Glacier, and Pehoé Lake. In my opinion, the W trek is one of the best long-distance treks in Patagonia. It’s a good combination of a great hiking experience, amazing scenery, good infrastructure, and a moderate level of difficulty. On the Argentina side of Patagonia we loved the Laguna de Los Tres trail, definitely a hike not too miss.

The W trek route overview

• Total distance – 100 km/62 miles linear trek
• Required number of days – 4-5 days
• Starting point – Paine Grande campsite (ferry from Pudeto) or Hotel Las Torres
• Finishing point – Hotel Las Torres (bus to Laguna Amarga) or Paine Grande campsite
• Highest point – Mirador Las Torres, 900m/2952ft
• Permits – no special permits are required
• Entrance fee – US$45.
• Advanced campsites booking is required for the W trek.  
• Accommodation – campsites, refugios (hostels), hotels.

Where is the W trek?

The W trek is a multi-day hiking route in the Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia, southern Chile. It’s one of the most famous treks in the region.

How long is the W trek in Patagonia?

The total distance of the W trek in Patagonia is 100 km/62 miles.

How long does it take to hike the W trek?

To hike the W trek in Torres del Paine on average takes 4 or 5 days. If you want to spend more time in the park and walk shorter days you can do the trek over 6 or even 7 days staying an extra night at the campsites.

How difficult is the W trek?

The W trek in Torres del Paine is a moderate hiking route. It isn’t a technical or hiking altitude trek. It doesn’t require a lot of experience or special training. Being in a good shape and having some hiking experience will make the walk easier especially if you’re going to do the trek independently.

When is the best time to do the W trek in Patagonia?

Weather-wise November to March are the warmest months, day temperatures are between 12°C and 15°C, and nights are between 8°C and 10°C. Wind in Patagonia can be quite hectic, summer months, except February, are quite windy – November, December, and January are the windiest months. For more information on weather in season read our post “When is the best time to visit Torres del Paine?“.

As for rain in January, March, and April you’ll get the most rainfalls, February is again quite a favorable month with the least rainfalls. From a weather point of view, February would be an ideal month for backpacking in Torres del Paine and exploring the Carretera Austral if it wasn’t one of the busiest months in Patagonia.

How much does it cost to hike the W trek?

The W trek can cost you anything from US$250 per person for 5 days (camping with your own gear and making food). The cost will depend on the chosen accommodation option and meal plan.

The most budget-friendly option of hiking the W trek (camping with your own gear and making food)

Transport

• Bus Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine  – CLP 20 000/US$20, return.
• Catamaran Pudeto – Paine Grande – US$35, one way.
• Bus Hotel Las Torres – Laguna Amarga – US$4. 

Entrance fee

The entrance fee to Torres del Paine for the W trek (assuming you’re going to spend in the park more than 3 days) is US$49 for adults, free for children under 12 years old.

Accommodation

Camping with your own gear – US$70 (4 nights); two nights at Vertice Patagonia campsites (US$10×2), two nights at Las Torres Patagonia campsites (US$25×2).

If you stay at fully-equipped campsites (tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat) you’ll pay around US$70 per night person. Dormitories with bunk beds are available at some campsites from US$40 per person.

Food

Cooking your own food – US$8-10 per person per day. If you buy meals at the campsites’ restaurants your food expenses will be significantly higher. For a full board, you’ll pay US$61 (at Fantastic Sur campsites) and US$88 at Las Torres Patagonia campsites. You can buy separate meals; breakfast – US$19 (Fantastic Sur)/US$24 (Las Torres Patagonia), box lunch – US$19/US$29, dinner – US$32/US$44.

Gear rental (optional)

If you have your own gear you’ll save quite a lot of money on rent. If you’re planning to do more hikes in the region it might be worth buying gear. You can find second-hand camping and hiking gear in Puerto Natales.

To rent camping gear (tent, sleeping bag, cooking stove, etc.) in Puerto Natales will cost you between US$15 and US$25 pp. per day, depending on what you rent.

Sample gear rental prices in Puerto Natales

Item	Price per day, USD
Sleeping bag -9°C	US$5
Sleeping pad	US$2.5
2-men tent	US$7
Cooking set (stove, pots, bowls. cups etc.)	US$6
Headlamp	US$2.5
Hiking poles	US$3
Waterproof jacket	US$5
Waterproof pants	US$3.5
Hiking backpack	US$6
Down jacket	US$4
Gloves	US$2

You can rent camping gear at the paid campsites on the W trek. To rent a 2-men tent at the campsites costs US$32-US$43 per night, a sleeping bag – US$24-US$29, and a camping mat – US$10. It’s more expensive than in the town but you don’t have to carry your camping gear with you.

Can you walk the W trek without a guide?

Yes, you can walk the W trek in Torres del Paine independently. Having a guide or walking in a group is not required.

How to buy entrance tickets to Torres del Paine?

According to the official website, in the 2022/23 hiking season, visitors have to purchase their entrance tickets to Torres del Paine online and at least 24 hours before their visit. They don’t accept payments at the park entrance gates.

You can show your ticket on the screen of your mobile phone or print it.

The entrance fee for foreigners is US$49 (3+ days in the park).

Torres del Paine park rules

You have to book campsites beforehand and have a booking confirmation printed or on your mobile phone.

It’s required to have a passport and a migration card (you get it entering Chile) with you on the trek.

Hikers are allowed to camp only at designated campsites.

Open fires are not allowed in the park – in the past, they caused terrible fires.

Hikers are allowed to use camping stoves only at designated areas at the campsites. In the 2022/23 hiking season due to the high risk of forest fires hikers are not allowed to use camping stoves at the Chileno campsite.

Drinking water can be found all over the park, it is considered of being good quality. We didn’t use any filters or purification systems on the trek.

Puerto Natales is the best place to be based before and after the hike. The town has many hotels, campsites, restaurants, shops, and gear rental places.

You can get more information about Torres del Paine including different route options, campsite bookings, etc. at Erratic Rock  (hostel/gear rental shop) there is a free daily talk at 3 pm.

You can combine the W trek in Torres del Paine with trekking in El Chalten. It’s the adventure capital of Argentina located 400 km north. There are many day hikes and a couple of multi-day routes with breathtaking scenery.

Travel insurance. The W-route is a multi-day trek in the wilderness. It’s not a dangerous hike but it has some parts through remote and difficult-to-access areas of the park. Having travel insurance for this route is a good idea. Like any other outdoor activity, hiking involves the risk of getting an injury, losing or breaking gear, and other unexpected situations that can spoil your trip. If you haven’t chosen an insurance company yet we can recommend our partners World Nomads. They work with travelers from all over the world and specialize in outdoor activities like hiking. You can buy an insurance policy online before or during your trip. It takes just a couple of minutes. The policy is very flexible it can cover your entire trip or only a part of it, e.g. only 5 days on the W trek. Get an instant quote right now! Important! Always make sure you carefully read the Terms and Conditions part.

How to book the campsites on the W trek?

The campsites on the W trek belong to three different companies; CONAF (National Forest Corporation) and free campsite Italiano. Vertice Patagonia paid campsites: Grey and Paine Grande. Las Torres Patagonia (Fantástico Sur) paid campsites: Central, Los Cuernos, Francés and Chileno.

There is a new booking service Booking Patagonia that you use can use to book the campsites on the W trek. We have never used but they’re recommended on the official CONAF website I believe it’s a legit company. It’s more convenient to book all the campsites using one site than several different websites. I’ve checked the prices of campsites and they were the same as on the companies’ websites. They sell bus tickets from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine as well.

CONAF campsites	Vertice Patagonia campsites	Las Torres Patagonia campsites
Italiano	Grey	Central
	Paine Grande	Chileno
		Los Cuernos
		Francés

Paid campsites are bigger, have better facilities and are easier to book than the free campsite.

Campsites on the W trek in the 2022/23 season

The campsites on the W trek can be booked online together through Booking Patagonia, or separately on the CONAF, Vertice Patagonia, and Las Torres Patagonia (Fantastico Sur) websites.

CONAF campsites

As of July 2022, the CONAF campsite (Italiano) can’t be booked online and there is no information on when (and if) it’ll be open. Even when the free campsite Italiano was open it was quite difficult to book it. For this reason, our suggested W trek itinerary includes only stays at the paid campsites. If you manage to book the Italiano campsite you can always adjust it.

Vertice Patagonia campsites

Currently, the Grey campsite and the Paine Grande campsite on the W trek are available for booking from 1st October.

Grey campsite. The price for camping with your own gear is US$10 per person (double occupancy). It’s possible to rent camping gear at the campsites; a tent (2 persons) – US$32 per night, a sleeping bag – US$29 per person per night, a camping mat – US$9 per person per night. Full board (breakfast, box lunch, and dinner) – US$61 per person. Separate meals: breakfast – US$19, box lunch – US$19, dinner – US$32.

Paine Grande campsite. The price for camping in your own tent is US$12 per person. You can rent camping gear at the campsite; a tent (2 persons) – US$32 per night, a sleeping bag – US$29 per person per night, and a camping mat – US$9 per person per night. Full board is available for US$61 per person. Meals can be ordered separately: breakfast – US$19, box lunch – US$19, dinner – US$32.

Las Torres Patagonia campsites

All four Las Torres Patagonia campsites on the W trek Central, Chileno, Cuernos, and Francés can be booked online. According to the website, the Central campsite is available for booking from 8th September; the Chileno and the Frances from 10th September, and the Cuernos from 1st November.

Chileno is a very popular campsite because it’s the closest one to the Mirador Las Torres. If there is no availability for your dates you can book instead the Central campsite and from there walk to the Mirador.

Camping with your own gear at all four campsites costs US$25 per person (double occupancy), or US$37 per person (single occupancy). Fully-equipped campsites are US$70 per person (double occupancy) or US$82 per person (single occupancy).

Full board is available at all four campsites. Full-board (breakfast, box lunch, and dinner) costs US$88 per person. All meals can be bought separately: breakfast – US$24, box lunch – US$29, lunch and dinner – US$44 per person.

It’s possible to rent camping gear at all campsites. A 2-persons tent – US$43 per night, a sleeping bag – US$24, and a mat – US$10.

Overall prices for camping, meals, and gear rental at Las Torres Patagonia campsites are higher than at the Fantastico Sur campsites.

Our post, Torres del Paine campsites, contains a lot of information on the topic including a map of the campsites, booking tips, camping facilities, and more. The information in the post is updated for the 2022/23 hiking season.

Where does the W trek start?

The W trek in Torres del Paine can be walked westbound or eastbound. The starting point of the route will depend on the chosen direction. If you walk westbound then you start at Hotel Las Torres (Central campsite). If you walk eastbound then the starting point will be at the Paine Grande campsite.

How to get to the W trek?

Puerto Natales is the nearest town. There are regular daily buses that connect it with Torres del Paine.

Bus Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine

Step 1. Take a bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine.

All buses leave from the bus terminal in Puerto Natales.

Bus tickets from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine with Bus-Sur can be booked online. Other bus companies sell their tickets at the bus terminal in Puerto Natales. It’s recommended during peak season (December – February) to buy your bus tickets at least one day in advance.

The timetable of buses from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine

Buses Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine	Bus 1 ZAAHJ	Bus 2* Bus-Sur, Buses Jose Maria	Bus 3 Bus-Sur	Bus 4 Buses Jose Maria
Leaves Puerto Natales (bus terminal)	6.45 am	7 am	12 pm	2.15 pm
Arrives at Laguna Amarga	8.45 am	9 am	2 pm	4.30 pm
Arrives at Pudeto (ferry)	9.45 am	10 am	3 pm	5.30 pm

*there are 2 buses that leave Puerto Natales bus station at 9 am.

Step 2. Get off at the Laguna Amarga entrance or the Pudeto entrance (depending on the direction of your trek).

If you walk the W trek east to west you start at Hotel Las Torres. You have to get off the Puerto Natales bus at Laguna Amarga to catch a mini-bus from Laguna Amarga to Hotel Las Torres. The journey takes 2 hours. The price is US$10.

If you walk the W trek west to east then you have to get off the bus at Pudeto and from there take a ferry to Paine Grande. The journey from Puerto Natales to Pudeto takes 3 hours. The price is US$10 pp.       

Step 3. Take the ferry from Pudeto to Paine Grande/take a mini-bus from Laguna Amarga to Hotel Las Torres.

The ferry ride from Pudeto to Paine Grande takes about 30 minutes. The price is US$35 one way.

Departure times of the ferry from Pudeto to Paine Grande and back

Catamaran	Pudeto – Paine Grande	Paine Grande – Pudeto
Ferry Hip Sur	daily at 10.30 am	daily at 5.30 pm

A mini-bus ride from Laguna Amarga to Hotel Las Torres is 15 minutes. The price is US$4, it’s paid on the bus. The departure times are linked to the arrival times of the buses from Puerto Natales. If you don’t want to take the second bus you can walk from the Laguna Amarga entrance to Hotel Las Torres. It’s about 7 km.

Getting back from Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales

Whenever you finish the W trek at Laguna Amarga or at Pudeto you can take a direct bus to Puerto Natales. The price is US$10. The journey takes between 2 and 3 hours.

Buses Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales	Bus 1 Bus-Sur	Bus 2 Bus-Sur	Bus 3 ZAAHJ
Leaves Pudeto	2 pm	6 pm	6 pm
Leaves Laguna Amarga	2.30 pm	7.30 pm	7 pm
Arrives in Puerto Natales	4.30 pm	9 pm	9 pm

It’s possible to do the W trek with a tour. It works out more expensive but on the other hand, you don’t have to worry about planning your itinerary, booking campsites, etc.

W trek Torres del Paine map

5 days W trek Patagonia itinerary

As I already mentioned you can walk the W trek in either direction; from Paine Grande to Hotel Las Torres (Central campsite) or from Hotel Las Torres to Paine Grande. Whichever way you go you’ll start and finish your trek with one of the highlights of Torres del Paine; Gray Glacier or Mirador Las Torres. We started the W route at Paine Grande.

Day 1. Paine Grande campsite – Grey campsite, 11 km

Bus Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine (Pudeto entrance); ferry Pudeto – Paine Grande, 3-4 hours. Paine Grande campsite – Grey campsite, 11 km/6,8 miles, 3 hours

Cost: bus – CLP 10 000/US$10, entrance fee – US$49, ferry – US$35, camping at Grey campsite – CLP 7000/US$10.

Highlights

• Pehoe lake
• Grey lake
• Grey glacier

Challenges

• Several ascents and descents on the way between Paine Grande and Grey campsite.

7.00-7.30 – catch a bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National park.

9.30-9.45 – get off at the first stop Laguna Amarga to pay the park entrance fee. Tip! Try to be one of the first people at the office so that you don’t have to wait too long you still have to get back on the bus. After paying the fee, getting tickets and maps get back on the bus and continue to Pudeto.

10.30 – get off the bus at Pudeto. Go to the ferry ticket office to buy a ticket to Paine Grande and find out about the departure time. Buy a one-way ticket you’ll finish the trek at a different entrance. Tip! If you have time before the departure you can go to Salto Chico waterfall.

11.00 – get on the ferry to Paine Grande.

11.30 – get off the ferry at Paine Grande.

Here you have two options; to camp at Paine Grande and walk to Grey glacier and back with a day pack or to walk with all your gear to the Grey campsite and overnight there. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. If you camp at Paine Grande you’ll walk to the glacier without your backpack and you can do the W trek in 4 days but you’ll have less time to walk around and to go to the viewpoints. If you camp at the Grey campsite you’ll have more time to explore the area but you’ll have to walk with your backpack from and to Paine Grande.

11.30 – start walking toward Grey glacier, 11km. It’ll take you between 3 and 4 hours.

15.30-16.00 – arrive at the Grey campsite, pitch your tent, and have lunch.

17.00 – walk around the campsite, go to the lake.  You can leave your stuff in the tent but we’d suggest taking valuables e.g. a camera, money with you. 

18.00-19.00 – get back to the campsite, have dinner, and rest.

Day 2. Grey campsite – Paine Grande campsite, 20 km

Grey campsite – glacier Grey viewpoint – Grey campsite – Paine Grande,  20 km/12,4 miles, 7 hours

Cost: camping at Paine Grande – US$12.

Highlights

• Grey glacier
• Grey lake
• Pehoe lake

Challenges

• A steep ascent to the Grey glacier view-point
• A steep descent back to the Grey campsite
• Several ascents and descents on the way from Grey to the Paine Grande campsite.

7.00 – get up, and have breakfast.

8.00 – start walking towards Paso campsite, to the viewpoints. Leave your stuff in the tent at the campsite, and take a day-pack with valuable stuff, water, and snacks.

9.30-10.00 – you’ll arrive at the viewpoint. There are several points from where you can see the glacier. From here we’d suggest starting walking back you still have to pack your tent and walk to Paine Grande.

11.00-11.30 – arrive back at Grey campsite, pack your tent, and have lunch.

12.30 – start walking to Paine Grande.

16.30-17.00 – arrive at Paine Grande, pitch your tent, and walk around.

19.00 – make dinner, rest.

Day 3. Paine Grande campsite – Francés campsite, 19 km

Paine Grande – Italiano campsite – Mirador Frances – Mirador Britanico (in good weather) – Frances campsite, 20 km/11,8 miles, 8 hours

Cost: camping at the Francés campsite – US$25

Highlights

• Skotsberg lake
• French Valley
• Mirador Frances
• Mirador Britanico

Challenges

• A steep ascent to Mirador Britanico from Italiano campsite
• A steep descent back from the Mirador to the campsite

6.00-7.00 – get up, make breakfast, and pack.

8.00 – start walking towards the Italiano campsite – 7,6 km, 2,5 hours.

10.30 – arrive at the Italiano campsite, leave your big backpack at the office and walk to the Mirador Frances – 2 km, 1 hour.

11.30 – arrive at the Mirador Francés, rest, and have snacks. If the weather is good and you feel strong continue walking towards the Mirador Britanico – 3,5 km, 2 hours.

13.30 – arrive at the Mirador Britanico, rest, and enjoy the view.

14.00 – start heading back to the Italiano campsite – 5,5 km, 2-3 hours.

16.30 – arrive at Italiano and continue walking towards the Francés campsite – 2 km, 30 min.

17.00 – arrive at the Francés.

Day 4. Francés campsite – Chileno campsite, 18,5 km

Francés campsite – Los Cuernos – Chileno campsite, 18,5 km/11,4 miles, 7 hours

Cost: camping at Chileno – US$25.

Staying at Chileno is currently the only option if you want to see the sunrise at Mirador Las Torres. There used to be a tree campsite just 800m away from the Mirador Las Torres but it’s been closed since 2018. From Chileno to the Mirador is a 2,5-3-hour walk which means you have to start at 3.00-4.00 am in summer as the sunrise is between 5.30 (December) and 7.00 (February).

In the 2022/23 hiking season because of the high risk of forest fires, it’s not allowed to use camping stoves at the Chileno campsite. You can buy meals at the campsite restaurant, pack food that doesn’t need to be cooked, or prepare meals in advance at the previous campsite.

Highlights

• Nordenskjold lake

Challenges

• Several ascents and descents on the way to the Chileno campsite

7.00 – get up, have breakfast, and pack.

8.00 – start walking towards Los Cuernos – 5km, 2 hours.

10.00 – arrive at Los Cuernos, and stop for rest and snacks. Continue walking towards Chileno campsite – 15km, 5,5 hours.

15.30 – arrive at Chileno, pitch tent, walk around, and rest.

18.00 – make dinner, rest.

Day 5. Chileno  – Mirador Las Torres – Puerto Natales, 14 km

Chileno campsite – Mirador Las Torres – Hotel Las Torres, 14 km/8,6 mi, 5h30min. Bus Hotel Las Torres – Laguna Amarga; bus – Laguna Amarga – Puerto Natales, 3 hours.

Cost: bus Hotel Las Torres – Laguna Amarga – CLP 4000/US$5, bus Laguna Amarga – Puerto Natales – CLP 10 000/US$10.

Highlights

• Mirador Las Torres – three sharp mountain peaks and the lagoon.

Challenges

• A long and steep ascent to Mirador Las Torres
• A long and steep descent to Hotel Las Torres

4.00-5.00 (depending on sunrise time) – get up, start going up to the Mirador – 4km, 2h15min.

6.15-7.15 – arrive at the Mirador. Enjoy the sunrise, spend some time resting, taking photos, and exploring the area.

8.00 – start going down to Chileno – 4km, 1h30min.

9.30 – arrive at Chileno, get your stuff, and start descending towards Hotel Las Torres – 5,5km, 1h30min.

11.00 – arrive at Hotel Las Torres, from here you can catch a shuttle bus to Laguna Amarga (confirm the departure time at the hotel) or walk – 7km, 2 hours.

14.00-14.30 – catch a bus from Laguna Amarga to Puerto Natales. We’d recommend checking the bus timetable at the park office at the beginning of the trek.

16.30 – arrive in Puerto Natales.

4 days W trek Torres del Paine itinerary

If for some reason your time in Torres del Paine is limited you can walk the W trek in 4 days.

Day 1. Paine Grande campsite – Grey campsite – Paine Grande campsite, 22 km

Bus Puerto Natales Torres del Paine (Pudeto); ferry Pudeto – Paine Grande, 3-4 hours. Paine Grande campsite – Grey campsite – Paine Grande campsite, 22 km/13,6 miles, 6 hours

Cost: bus – CLP 10 000/US$10, entrance fee – US$49, ferry – CLP 20 000/US$25, camping at Paine Grande – US$12.

Highlights

• Pehoe lake
• Grey lake
• Grey glacier

Challenges

• Several ascents and descents on the way from Paine Grande to the Grey campsite.

7.00-7.30 – catch a bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National park.

9.30-9.45 – get off at the first stop Laguna Amarga to pay the park entrance fee. Get back on the bus.

10.30 – get off the bus at Pudeto, and go to the ferry ticket office to buy a ticket to Paine Grande.

11.00 – get on the ferry to Paine Grande.

11.30 – get off the ferry at Paine Grande.

11.30-12.00 – pitch your tent. Leave your stuff in the tent, and take only valuables, water, and snacks.

12.00 – start walking to the glacier – 11 km, 2h30min.

14.30 – arrive at the Grey campsite, and spend some time walking around.  If you have time go to one of the nearest viewpoints. Remember the stretch between the Grey campsite and Paine Grande closes at 4 pm after that time you’re not allowed to start walking so make sure you start heading back before.

Before 16.00 – start walking back to Paine Grande. In the summer it gets dark after 9 pm in Patagonia, on the way back you’ll have enough time to enjoy the view and take some photos don’t waste time on that on the way to the glacier.

18.00 – 19.00 – arrive at Paine Grande, have dinner, and rest.

From the second day, follow the 5-day itinerary from Day 3.

If you still have some time to spend in Patagonia after completing the W trek, you can visit the Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate, Argentina.

Where to stay before the trek?

Puerto Natales is the best place to be based before the trek, it’s not a big place but it’s quite geared toward tourists, here you can find all you need to prepare for the hike: hotels, hostels, shops, gear rental places, pharmacies, ATMs, etc.

There are many accommodation options in Puerto Natales from budget campsites to fancy guest houses and apartments, here are our suggestions;

• Budget | Hostal Backpacker Cortes | We are Patagonia Backpacker | Refugio Hoshken | Forte Patagonia |
• Middle price | Patagonia Adventure Hostel | Hostal Treehouse Patagonia | Puma House | Pire Mapu Cottage |
• High-end | Toore Patagonia | Weskar Lodge | DT Loft | Hotel Costaustralis |

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