Pumalin Park in northern Patagonia is a stunning area that offers some great opportunities for outdoor lovers; several hiking trails, in-nature campsites, crystal clear river, unique flora, and fauna – all these you will ding here. Pumalin park is situated on the famous Carretera Austral (Southern Road) that starts in Puerto Montt and finishes in Villa O’Higgins. The park is definitely worth stopping for a couple of days before heading more south. Pumalin Park and Siete Tazas are some of our favorite parks in Chile.
Pumalin park overview
Area – 400 000 ha.
Pumalin was a private reserve, it belonged to the founder of North Face gear company Douglas Tompkins.
Till 2017 Pumalin was larges private reserve in Chile, last year it was gifted to Chilean state and became a part of the National park – the largest park in South America with a total area of 4 000 000 ha.
In 2008 and eruption of the Chaitén volcano the park was closed for two years and opened again in 2010.
Suggested tours and activities in Patagonia
- Hike Patagonia in-depth (G-Adventures)
- End of the Earth (G-Adventures)
- National Geographic journeys. Discover Patagonia in-depth (G-Adventures)
Weather in Patagonia
Weather in this part of Patagonia is not as extreme as in the South; summer temperatures are around 16-20°C, in winter it rarely goes down below 0°C. The summer weather is nice and comfortable for hiking and camping, it’s not too hot during the day and cool at night time.
Rainfalls can happen at any time and sometimes it can rain for a couple of days but in general, summer doesn’t have much rain. Winter months are the rainy months here – not the ideal time for hiking and camping. Though you might be lucky and get very little rain we’d recommend having a waterproof tent it can rain quite heavily in summer. If you’re planning to explore more of Patagonia visit Perito Moreno Glacier or do backpacking in Torres del Paine summer months are definitely the best time for traveling.
Travel insurance for hiking
Pumalin park offers several hiking trails none of them is really dangerous but some of them are through remote areas with difficult car access. Hiking like any outdoor activity involves a risk of getting an injury or losing some of the gear due to unpredictable weather conditions e.g. very strong wind that Patagonia is famous for or just losing your backpack as it happened to me hitchhiking in Patagonia.
It’s always advisable to have travel insurance especially if you’re going on an adventure outside your own country. Be properly covered for injury, evacuation, gear loss, trip cancellation, and trip delays. It’s always better to choose an insurance company that has a lot of experience in covering outdoor activities all over the world like World Nomads. Their insurance policy is very flexible you can buy it for the whole period of a trip of just to cover a specific activity. It doesn’t matter what country you’re from or where you’re currently you can buy it online, it takes only a couple of minutes to fill the form and get your insurance. Get a quote right now!
How to get to Pumalin Park?
By bus+ferry from Puerto Montt
There are buses from Puerto Montt (bus terminal) that offer a combination bus+ferry and will deliver you right to Caleta Gonzalo or Chaitén, departure time 7am (it can change we’d suggest to arrive a day earlier and find out) the journey takes 9 hours. Price CLP 14 000/US$21.
By car/hitchhiking from Puerto Montt
From Puerto Montt drive south on the Carretera Austral to Caleta Arena, from there catch a ferry to Puelche, a short ride – 20min., departs every 30 min. or so. If you walk in you pay CLP 700/US$1. You can just jump in someone’s car, the price is per car doesn’t matter how many passengers are in it.
Arrive at Puelche harbor. From there continue driving – 60 km to Hornopiren – a small town.
From Hornopiren catch another ferry to Caleta Gonzalo, 5 hour trip with one switch – at Leptepu everybody gets off the ferry, drives for 10 minutes to Fiordo Largo, and embark another ferry to Caleta Gonzalo. There is a morning departure from Hornopiren at 9.00 am.
If you traveling by car in the peak season book a spot beforehand at the ferry station or online. Here they charge per person, not per car, doesn’t matter if you walk in or drive-in (the driver doesn’t pay), price CLP 30 000/US$45 per car (driver doesn’t pay), CLP 5600/US$8 per person.
The ferry fits 50 cars and 300 passengers, it’s a big and comfortable ferry. You can buy some food; sandwiches, pastries, instant noodles, tea/coffee but everything is very expensive. Once you’re on the ferry check for seats with outlets, don’t miss the chance to charge your devices there is no electricity in the park. Ferry timetable changes depending on the season, it’s better to find out beforehand in the town.
What to pack for hiking in Pumalin
If you’re planning to stay in the park you’ll need camping gear; tent, sleeping bag, mattress, camping stove, cooking set, etc. Caleta Gonzalo is the only campground where you can rent a cabin (if you don’t want camping).
You can find more details on what gear to pack for hiking and camping in the region for men and women in our detailed Patagonia packing list.
Nearest to the park towns
Hornopiren is a small town with different accommodation options; hotels, cottages and campsites, one supermarket, a couple of restaurants and an ATM. We’d recommend drawing money in Puerto Montt, just in case this ATM doesn’t work. It’s always a problem in Patagonia, every time you see a working one just draw money.
Accommodation in Hornopiren
- Budget | Cahuin Hostel | Residencial El Botecito |
- Middle price | Pichical Ruca cottages | Hosteria Catalina | Entre Fiordos y Sirenas |
- Luxury | Cabañas El Cobre |
Chaitén – the nearest town to Pumalin park – 58 km from Caleta Gonzalo. It’s rather a village, very small, with two or three shops, many hotels and hostels, a couple of local restaurants and one or two campsites. There are no ATMs here, not all places accept credit cards – make sure you have cash.
Accommodation in Chaiten
- Budget | Hostel Chaitén Renace |
- Middle price | Cabañas Los Chilcos | Departamentos Emanuel | Chucao Bosque y Cabañas |
- Luxury | Tranqueras del Monte | Paraiso Patagonico | Ecolodge el Fandango |
How to get from Pumalin park to Chaitén?
There is one local bus from the western part of the park to Chaitén, at 11.00am, for CLP 1000/US$2. Departure time better to confirm at the information office at Caleta Gonzalo. You can use the same bus to move from one campsite to another one inside the park. Park rangers sometimes pick up tourists if they go the same way. In this part of Chile, public transport can be a problem, there are few buses, they don’t go every day, sometimes they are full, if you short in time, plan your trip beforehand and find out more buses.
Pumalin park campsites and hiking trails
Ferries arrive right at the park, at Caleta Gonzalo. There is an information office at the pier where you can get a map and some info about the park and the campsite (they speak English). The entrance is free. Since 2017 Pumalin park is not a private reserve anymore – it belongs to the government. The park is not very famous outside Chile – for us, it was a nice surprise and one of the best experiences in Patagonia. Pumalin park has a very good website in English and Spanish.
Campsites in Pumalin Park
There are several campsites in the park, the price for camping is the same – CLP 6000/US$9. All campsites have toilets, some have cold showers and shelters with tables and benches where you can hide from the rain, cook or play table games.
We stayed at Caleta Gonzalo (western part of the park) and Carlos Cuevas (southern part) campsites. The first one is next to the ferry – very nice and well maintained. It has a small shop where you can buy some food; pasta, soups, cheese, instant noodles, eggs, bread, milk, cookies, tea, snacks, and chocolate. Prices are a bit higher than in a town, especially for fresh stuff. The second campsite is more of a wild experience with only ablution complex and basins for washing dishes.
|Northern part*||Western part||Southern part|
|Vodudahue||Rio Gonzalo||Carlos Cuevas|
|Pillan||Tronador||Vuelta del Rio|
* Both campsites are not official campsites with limited facilities you can camp there if necessary.
Pumalin park hiking routes
The main activities in the park are hiking and observing nature. There are several day hiking trails of different lengths and difficulties, all trails start near the campsites, just choose which one you want to hike and stay in the closest camping. The trails in Pumalin Park are some of the best day hikes in Patagonia.
Trails of the western part of the park
Cascadas (waterfalls), Rio Gonzalo campsite – 5,6 km return, 3 hours. The trail is very beautiful and picturesque, the path, sometimes wooden bridges, goes through the dense forest, along the river and ends with an impressive huge waterfall. When it rains a lot it can be difficult to get there, you need to cross a river and sometimes it can be quite strong and deep, but it’s possible, just find the right spot. The path is very clear and easy to follow, even without seeing the waterfall it’s worth of walking.
Laguna Tronador, Tronador campsite – 4,8 km (return), starts at Tronador bridge, 11 km south of Caleta Gonzalo. Wooden stairs at the beginning leading to the suspension bridge, 3 hours.
Cascadas Escondidas (hidden waterfalls), Cascadas Escondidas campsite – 2 km return, 2 hours. About 14 km from Caleta Gonzalo, small waterfalls, a nice walk through the forest.
Lago Negro, Lago Negro campsite – 1,6 km return, 30 min. to a beautiful viewpoint on the shore of the lake.
Volcano Michinmahuida, Lago Blanco campsite – 24 km return, 8-10 hours. It starts at Carol Urzúa bridge, 28,5 km south of Caleta Gonzalo.
Interpretativo de Naturaleza, Volcan campsite – 3 km loop, 1 hour. It goes through the rain forest where you can see many endemic species.
Volcano El Chaiten, Volcan campsite – 4,4 km return, 2h30min. The trail starts 5 km away from the campsite, ascend to the top with subsequent descend back. There was a big eruption in 2008 and the forest around hasn’t recovered yet, some dry trees and bare land. The scenery here is very different from the other parts of the park. On a clear sunny day, you can see the sea and Chiloe island from the top.
Trails of the southern part of the park
To get there you can catch a bus from Chaiten to Futaleufu and get off at El Amarillo entrance. Hitchhiking is possible as well and works quite good. The bus leaves every day at 12.00pm and 5.00pm, price CLP 700/US$1, it stops near the entrance to the park. From the entrance you’ll have to hitchhike or walk for 2,5 km to the nearest to the park entrance campsite – Puente Carlos Cuevas. It has a toilet, tap with drinking water and shelter with a big table and benches, no shower.
Darwin’s frog trail, Carlos Cuevas campsite – 2,5 km, 1h30min. The trail starts 1,5 km from the campsite, it’s a short hike with some ups and downs, neither steep nor long, through the forest, with small waterfalls, two viewpoints, there you have a chance to spot a shy Darwin’s frog, we didn’t see any.
El Mirador trail, Vuelta del Rio campsite – 6 km, 2h30min. It starts 2 km away from the campsite, very long and steep ascent to the top of the mountain but it’s totally worth of effort, you get an amazing view of the park, the glacier, and the valley.
Ventisquero El Amarillo trail, Ventisquero campsite – 20 km return, 6 hours from the campsite and back. It starts 10 km from the south entrance, from Ventisquero campsite to the glacier are 10 km more, if you don’t have a car and stay at Carlos Cuevas campsite you’ll have to hitch, it’s quite far to walk from there and back in one day. The trail ends at the glacier you come quite close to it.
After exploring the Pumalin Park you can continue your journey south and do some hikes in Queulat National Park or Cerro Castillo National Park.
Recommended books and guidebooks
- Lonely Planet Chile and Easter Island, Travel Guide. Kindle and paperback.
- Patagonia on a budget by Matthew Morgante. How to travel Patagonia on US$30 a day. Kindle.
- Walking Patagonia by Caspian Ray. Don’t expect a hiking guide, it’s a fiction story about a young guy who went to Patagonia in search of adventure and love.
- Enduring Patagonia by Gregory Crouch. Kindle and paperback.
- In Patagonia by Bruce Chatwin. Kindle, audiobook and paperback.
The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.