Villa O'Higgins to El Chaltén - how to get?
Villa O'Higgins to El Chalten, an adventurous border crossing from Chile to Argentina. For all adventure seekers and nature lovers crossing from Chile to Argentina (or the other way) at O'Higgins is a must-do activity. The scenery is unreal, the landscape is stunning with turquoise blue and emerald green colors. The walk is short and challenging but at the same time, it's rewarding, the O'Higgins - El Chalten route was one of our favorite multi-day hikes in Patagonia.
Villa O'Higgins is the end of the Carretera Austral, the last point you can get by road on the Chilean side that makes everything (mostly food) here more expensive but still affordable. The walk was quite difficult due to the heavy luggage we were carrying but it was worth the effort. The walk to El Chalten was good preparation for trekking the O Circuit in Torres del Paine. The main advice here is to take your time, don't rush, and enjoy the landscape.
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The cost of the O'Higgins to El Chalten crossing
- Transport. Bus Villa O'Higgins to Bahamondez pier - CLP 2500/US$3; boat Bahamondez - Candelario Mancilla - CLP 60 000/US$65; ferry Punta Norte de Laguna del Desierto to Punta Sur (optional, you can walk instead) - ARS 17 500/US$50; bus Punta Sur de Laguna del Desierto to El Chalten - ARS 8500/US$25.
- Food. CLP 14 000/US$15 pp.
- Camping. Candelario Mancilla - CLP 4500/US$5 pp., at the Argentinian immigration office - free.
Total: between US$115 and US$165.
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Villa O'Higgins the start of the route
How to get to Villa O'Higgins?
There are regular buses from Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins but they don't go every day, 2 or 3 times per week. Price about CLP 27 000/US$30 from Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins. Getting to Cochrane is easier there are daily buses from Coyhaique and Puerto Montt that go on the Carretera Austral and stop at several places. You can catch it from any town along the way.
As an option, you can rent a car but you won't be able to go with it on the ferry and cross to Argentina. Note! Between Cochrane and Villa O'Higgins, there is a ferry cross from Caleta Yungay to Rio Bravo - traffic depends on the ferry schedule. In summer there are 3 ferries per day; 10 am, 1 pm, and 6 pm. The ferry cross is free for everybody.
The cheapest way of getting to Villa O'Higgins is to hitchhike. Hitchhiking works perfectly everywhere in Chile; you meet cool local people, get to know better the country, and are more flexible no need to worry about missing a bus or not getting a ticket.
If you like hiking you might enjoy visiting other places in Patagonia that offer great trails such as Cerro Castillo or Pumalin Park.
Facilities in Villa O'Higgins
Accommodation in Villa O'Higgins
There are several places to stay in Villa O'Higgins in case you want more privacy and tranquility.
- Mid-range | Puesto Cánogas Hostal |
- High-end | Posada Paso Mayer | Rumbo Sur Hotel |
ATMs and credit cards in Villa O'Higgins
In Villa O'Higgins, there are no ATMs, the last ATM on the way is in Cochran, you need to have enough cash to pay for accommodation and the boat, and all shops accept cards - Visas (not sure about Master cards). Rather try to exchange Chilean pesos for Argentinians at your hotel in O'Higgins or with other tourists that do the walk the other way around and come from Argentina.
Getting from Villa O'Higgins (Chile) to El Chalten (Argentina)
The route description
- Bus Villa O'Higgins - Bahamondez pier, 7km/4,3 mi.
- Ferry Villa O'Higgins - Candelario Mancilla (Chilean immigration), 1h45min.
- Walk Candelario Mancilla - Punta Norte de Laguna del Desierto (Argentinian immigration), 22 km/13,6 mi.
- Walk/ferry Punta Norte - Punta Sur de Laguna del Desierto, 12 km/7,4 mi.
- Bus/hitchhike Punta Sur de Laguna del Desierto - El Chalten, 40 km/24,8 mi.
Step 1. Bus Villa O'Hggins to Bahamondez (ferry pier), 15 min.
The pier is 7 km from the town to catch a ferry it's better to take a bus otherwise you'll have to start walking very early to get there on time. Most cyclists go on their own and leave the town at about 1h30min. before the ferry departure. Bus transfer is included in your boat ticket. The meeting point is in Villa O'Higgins at Ruedas Patagonia office at 7.15 am.
Step 2. Ferry Villa O'Higgins to Candelario Mancilla, 2h30min.
- Ruedas de la Patagonia CLP 60 000/US$65. Departure days depend on the weather conditions. You can buy your ticket on the website.
*Note! There is no extra charge for bicycles on the ferries. Motorcycles are not allowed.
Boats run from September to April. Always confirm departure times and prices with the company as they might change.
Be aware that due to the weather conditions, you can wait for a boat for 2-4 days if you're short on time think twice before choosing this option. You can do day hikes from Villa O'Higgins while waiting for a boat.
Candelario Mancilla
Chilean Carabineros (immigration) is 1 km away from the pier, the office is open from early morning till 9 pm. Here you get your Chile exit stamp, The officers are very friendly if you have any questions about the walk ask them they know the area very well. If you have time and want to do an off-the-beaten-track hike you can go to one of the glaciers on the Chilean side - O'Higgins or El Chico. If you have extra luggage you can leave it at the Carabineros office for no extra charge.
Camping at Candelario Mancilla about 1 km uphill from the pier (you'll see it on the top). Price CLP 6000/US$6 pp. Besides the campsite, there is a small restaurant where you can buy a cooked meal as well as home bread and jam. If you arrive early we'd suggest starting the walk towards El Chalten. If you arrive in the afternoon or evening it's better to stay at Candelario and continue the next morning.
Step 3. Walk Candelario Mancilla - Punta Norte de Laguna del Desierto, 22 km/13,6 mi
From Candelario Mancilla to Argentinian immigration (Punta Norte de Laguna del Desierto) is 22 km;
- 17 km to the border, dirt road on the Chilean side, mostly flat, some ups, in the beginning, can be cycled.
- 5 km from the border to the lake and the Argentinian immigration office. This trail is a small path in the forest, with some ups and downs, difficult to cycle - you push your bicycle through the forest.
In total, it takes between 5-6 hours to walk 22 km, depending on how much luggage you have, weather conditions, and of course your fitness level. At the immigration office, you get an Argentinian entrance stamp. There is a free camping area next to the office where you can stop for the night.
Note! If you don't want to walk with all your luggage or just realized you're too tired to walk at all you can arrange transportation to the border with carabineros. Price around CLP 15 000/US$15. They can drop you at the border but from there you'll have to walk the last 5 km on your own.
Step 4. Walk/ferry Punta Norte - Punta Sur de Laguna del Desierto, 12 km/7,5 mi
From Argentinian immigration, you can walk along the lake for 12 km or take a ferry to Punta Sur de Lago del Desierto (South Point). The ferry takes about 1 hour, price is ARS 30 000/US$30 pp. All the cyclists take the ferry because the walk along the lake is very similar to the last 5 km to the Argentinian border control, and it's impossible to cycle.
We decided to walk, after all, it was a beautiful trail with some amazing viewpoints overlooking the glacier, lake, and mountains. The path is clear and easy to follow but it takes time - about 5-6 hours due to constant up and downhill, sometimes quite steep.
The entire walk can be easily done in 2 days. On the first day - ferry O'Higgins to Candelario, then walk from Candelario Mancilla to Punta Norte de Laguna del Desierto and camp at Argentinian immigration. On the second day - walk Punta Norte to Punta Sur de Laguna del Desierto. And from there take a bus to El Chalten.
Step 5. Bus/hitchhike Punta Sur de Laguna del Desierto - El Chalten, 40 km/24 mi
Once you are at Punta Sur de Laguna del Desierto (South Point) you have two options to get to El Chalten which is 40 km away; take a bus to El Chalten for ARS 15 000/US$15 or hitchhike. The bus journey takes about 1 hour.
You can continue your Patagonia adventure by trekking in El Chalten, Laguna de los Tres is a not-to-miss hike. After El Chalten, you can visit Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate. You can get from El Chalten to Torres del Paine and do one of the hiking routes there.
El Chalten, the end of the route
El Chalten is a bigger town with better infrastructure compared to Villa O'Higgins. There are more accommodation options here you can find. Some nice campsites in El Chalten are great for meeting people.
- Hotels
- Hostels
- Campsites
- Restaurants
- Bars
- Shops
- Pharmacies
- Gear rental places
- ATMs
- Tour agencies
Accommodation in El Chalten
There are many accommodation options in El Chalten from budget camping and dormitories to luxury hotels.
Budget options - Hostel Rancho Grande - one of the top-rated hostels in the town - a big house located just outside El Chalten. There are dorm beds and private and family rooms.
- Budget | Hostel Wenuy |
- Middle price | Hosteria Los Ñires | Glaciar Marconi |
- Luxury | Hotel Lago del Desierto |
Useful items for O'Higgins to El Chalten crossing
For more details on gear and clothing for Patagonia for men and women check our Patagonia packing list post.
- Merino Wool Darn Tough Hiker Socks
- Rain Poncho
- PETZL - TIKKINA Headlamp
- Kindle E-book
- Neck Pouch/Passport holder
- Go Pro Hero 10
Recommended books and guidebooks
- Lonely Planet Argentina, Travel Guide. Kindle and paperback.
- Patagonia on a budget by Matthew Morgante. How to travel Patagonia on US$30 a day. Kindle.
- To Shake the Sleeping Self: A Journey from Oregon to Patagonia, and a Quest for a Life with No Regret by Jedidiah Jenkins. Paperback, Kindle & Audiobook.
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The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.
Hey, thanks for the amazing blog, it is really incredible, something from other world. I was searchng about the Argentinian immigration camping, because I was a bit confused but I didn't find anything about it. There is any website ? Thanks for the attention
Hello Antonio. Thank you for the comment. I don't think there is a website for the campsite at Argentinian immigration. It's a very basic camping area with not much else. The campsite on the Chilean side at Candelario Mansilla has better facilities. Depending on where you're coming from it might be better to camp there.
Good luck
Thanks for sharing your experience ! It really helps me planning my trip.
Do you know where can I find informations about the bus which go to el chalten from Punta Sur ? I can't find it... And I don't want to walk all the 36km lol
Thank you !
Hi!
I just want to update some of here informations!
There no longer three agencies that make the crossing between O’higgins and Candelario Mancilla, only the Ruedas de Pantagonia (including the transfert to the port) and it’s very hard to get one (you can wait for one week on summer) . You can payed the boat in card and many of the supermarket take cards too ! On my opinion, if you have to stay in order to wait the boat the more budget and pleasant option for the backpakers is Los pioneros, there is trees to stop the strong wind of O Higgins !
Best regards,
Hélène, french backpaker
Hello Hélène. Thank you very much for the update. I'll update the post based on your recommendations. It looks like getting from Villa O'Higgins to El Chalten is becoming more and more difficult. It's a great adventure but I'm not even sure it's worth all the trouble.
Cheers
Dear All, can you help to see if we can rent a vehicle CAR in Puerto Montt and drop it in Villa O'Higgins in February. I estimate 5 days to trravel with stops
Thanks
Hello Marcello. I'm not sure if it's possible to drop off a rental car in Villa O'Higgins. I haven't seen any car rental offices in the town. If you want to rent a car in Puerto Montt and drive it on the Carretera Austral you'll probably have to drop it off in a bigger town along the route and continue to Villa O'Higgins by bus.
Good luck
Hi,
We did the crossing recently and here is some info for other fellow travelers:
Only Las Ruedas is doing the crossing, the other companies are not operating. They also provide the transfer from Villa O'Higgins to Bahamondez.
Due to bad weather conditions in the last few days, some departures have been delayed and there is a backlog of people waiting to cross, especially from Villa O'Higgins. Even if you have a reservation for a date, you might not get a seat for that day. Keep this in mind if you have a tight schedule.
Good luck!
Hello Laura. Thank you very much for the update.
Cheers
Hi @Laura,
Do you remember the price of the ferry?
Thanks!
Hi @Joaquim,
It was 60'000 CLP per person, which includes the transfer to the port.
Thank you so much for all of your helpful posts. You have made the planning process so much less overwhelming. Just a quick question-do you know where people are able to exchange for Argentinian pesos and get a SIM card after getting into El Chalten? Some websites mentioned that it is highly likely the one ATM in town will not have money available. Do the grocery stores and shops accept credit card or USD?
Hello Lea. Thank you for the comment. As far as I know, the official exchange rate is quite a bit lower than "on the street". You'll get less if you pay with a card or draw money at an ATM. We had some Chilean pesos left before crossing to Argentina that we exchanged with travelers coming from Argentina to Chile. I would suggest having some USD in cash. Otherwise, you can draw money in Chile in Chilean pesos and exchange them in Argentina. I'm sure you'll be able to do so in El Chalten. As for a SIM card you should be able to buy one in El Chalten.
Good luck
Hi, are these prices updated for 2022? Thanks!
Hello Rowan. Some of the prices are updated some are not yet I'm waiting for the companies to get back to me with new tariffs.
Cheers
That map in your post looks really helpful! Where is that from? Thank you!
Hi,
we are going to Patagonie from half february till half april 2022. We want to cycle the Carreter Austral and do some hiking in the national parks we pass. We are planning to do this trip from from north to south. Doing that direction we hope the strong winds will be most of the time in our back. But winter is coming, which is another aspect to coop with. In the south it will be already winter in april. What do you advise us? North -south or vice versa?
Other question: we heeard that the border between Chili and Argentina is closed due to Covid (omicron). Is there any possibility to continue from Villa Higgins to the south without passing the border of Argentina? We want to visy Torre del Paine.
thaks for your advice!
Anneke
Hello, Anneke. We traveled the Carretera Austral from mid-Jan to mid-March and from what I remember it was quite windy all along the route. Most people we met cycled south to north maybe because of the weather. In April it will be quite chilly in the extreme south around Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales not ideal for hiking in Torres del Paine. In the chosen months I'd rather cycle south to north but I'm not aware of the wind direction and if it really makes a big difference.
You can see on the official website which overland border crossings are currently open https://www.chileatiende.gob.cl/coronavirus/viajes-y-estado-de-frontera. I don't see the O'Higgins - El Chalten crossing in the list which probably means it's not open. There is no other way of getting to Torres del Paine from Villa O'Higgins only through Argentina. I see a couple of open border crossing points on the Carretera Austral. Maybe you can cross earlier instead of going all the way to O'Higgins e.g. at Futaleufu and from there continue towards Torres del Paine on the Argentinian side.
Good luck
Hello -
Is it possible to get from o'higgins to el chalten walking/hitchhiking in May?
thanks!
Hello, Matt. May is full winter in that part of Patagonia there will be no ferries running from O'Higgins to Candelario Mancilla and walking will be complicated due to snow. To get there hitchhiking is difficult even in summer the ferry from O'Higgins to Candelario Mancilla is only for passengers and bicycles, no cars. You'll have to go back to Cochrane and hitchhike from there.
Cheers
Dear Nomads,
We are planning on doing this trip the other way around.
Any things we should think about that are different than the N-Z way?
Do you think we should count some extra days as we will be doing it half November?
Is there a possibility for food if we would get 'stuck' at the Calendario Mancilla?
Greetings Stef.
Hello, Stef! There is nothing I can think of that can be different if you walk this route the other way around. I'd recommend having at least one extra day in case of bad weather though the wind is the main problem for the boats to go. November is one of the winiest months in Patagonia. There is a campsite near Candelario Mancilla where you can camp and buy some food when we were there we could order a cooked meal or buy things like bread, preserves, canned food.
Cheers!
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Hi! Thanks for useful information and it's really helpful for planning.
I'd like to leave VOH 3rd(Fri) or 5th(Sun) January due to Bus from Tortel to VOH running only Mon, Thu, Sat. However Robinson Crusoe navigate the boat only Mon,Wed,Thu, Sat and Rudas de la Patagonia navigate only Mon, Wed, Sat. and No good connection with bus.
Could you advise contact details (e-mail address or facebook ID) of "Lorenzo"?
FYI, Rudas de la Patagonia increased price to CLP40,000- for 2019-2020.
Hello, Takahiro! Thank you for the comment! Unfortunately, we don't have contact details of Lorenzo the best you can do is try to contact him when in Villa O'Higgins that's how we found him. I believe in January there will be enough people willing to cross from O'Higgins the boat might go on Mon, Fri or Sun. If not you'll have to wait for two days or you can try to hitchhike to O'Higgins (we did and it worked pretty good in Patagonia) then you don't depend on the bus and can arrive any day.
Cheers!
Thanks for your swift feed back!
I considered to hitchhicke from Tortel to VOH on 3/Jan. However it seems not so easy to get car from Tortel in high season and also no bus service to Cochrane on Friday though I thought more easy to get car at Junction on Rute7.
Was there any shuttle or ride share van to Puerto Yungey in Tortel?
Otherwise should consider another option that taking bus from Cochrane 8am or 9:30 to Tortel (3-3.5hrs?) then taking 16:30 bus to VCC in same day.
Was 2-3hours enough to walk around Tortel when you visited?
Also do you know any other budget accommodation USD30-50 with private room in VCC if the El MOsco is full?
Cheers!
I don't know how easy or difficult it is to get a car or if there is a shared bus, we were lucky with a car that picked us up at Puerto Rio Tranquilo, they were going to Tortel and then back, we went with them on the way back they dropped us at Rute 7 and the next morning we continued hitchhiking to Villa O'Higgins. Torel is a very small place, 2-3 hours should be enough.
There are several campsites in Villa O'Higgins if you don't want camping you can walk around the village and ask maybe there is a room that locals rent in the season for tourists.
Good luck!
Hi! Reading this and would like to cross from Argentina to Chile. Would it be possible without camping gear? Dont have it with me and dont think I could rent either.
Hi! It is possible to cross without camping if you take an early bus to Laguna del Desierto then take a ferry across the lake walk to Candelario Mancilla and catch a ferry to Villa O'Higgins. The only problem is that the ferry doesn't go in bad weather (too windy) and you might be trapped at Candelario Mancilla for a day or two. There is a campsite at Candelario Mancilla where, I believe, you can rent a tent, they might have rooms as well. It happens quite often that boats don't go due to the weather conditions.
Good luck!
Hi! I'm thinking of doing this border crossing with my motorbike, from El Chaltén to Villa O'Higgins. How was the first part of the path after Punta Norte on Lago del Desierto? Would it be possible on a (small) motorbike?
Hello, Silvan! Are you're planning to take a ferry from Punta Sur to Punta Norte de Lago del Desierto? With a motorbike it's the only option you definitely won't be able to walk along the lake. From Punta Norte first 5km is a path quite narrow, with some ups and downs, tree roots etc. You'll have to push your bike through, cyclists do it. After that there is a gravel road that goes all the way to Candelario Mancilla.
Good luck!
Hey, I am starting my trip through South America in February 2018. I'd like to go up all the way from Ushuaia to Puerto Montt. Would you recommend bringing your own tent? I'll be by myself and I don't know yet if I wanna camp alone. Or is there the chance to sleep in guesthouses along the road, especially at this part from Chalten to O'Higgins...thanks for your answer. Regards, Sarah
Hi, Sarah! Thank you for the question! You can find accommodation e.g. cabanas, guest houses and in bigger places (El Chalten, Puerto Natales) hostels just be ready to pay quite a bit for them, the cheapest accommodation starts at 15$ per person (hostel), in guesthouses it can be difficult to find a single room as most are double or even for four persons. Concerning camping Patagonia is safe and most campsites will be quite full this time of the year (February) as it's the season. We were two but we met quite a few backpackers including girls (even a pregnant one) hitchhiking, hiking or cycling through the area alone. Having your own tent will definitely save you a lot of money and you always can be sure you'll be able to find a place to sleep. It's good to have your own tent and camping gear as well if you're planning to do some hikes in South America there are many you can do on your own, without guides. If you have more questions we'll be happy to answer.
Good luck!
Would it be possible to do this trip in August?
Hello, Zain! I think in August it'll be cold and a lot of snow, plus I doubt there will be ferries from Villa O'Higgins to Candelario Mancilla, they navigate only in summer and even then are often cancelled due to bad weather.
Cheers!
H3llo, you're information is very helpful! I'm considering doing the same trip soon. I had a question about changing money once you cross from Chile to Argentina...were the rates fair and were there many places to change money? As you know the official and blue exchange rates can vary hugely. Did you have ARS with you already?
Hello, Lonnie! Thank you! You can exchange Chilean pesos in Argentina (El Chalten) but the exchange rate was quite bad. We exchanged money (according to official rate) with one of the travelers we met on the way who was walking the opposite direction (from Argentina to Chile) and had some Argentinian pesos. There are two ATMs in El Chalten where you can draw money but the limit is 1000 ARS and you pay quite a lot for withdrawal. The best is to try to exchange money with other travelers in campsites or along the way.
GOOD LUCK!
Is it possible to ride a bike all the way from Candelario Mancilla to El chalten?
Hi, Emmanuel! Thanks for your question. You can't ride all the way but you can do it all the way with a bike (pushing it through the forest from time to time) and many people do it. In fact there are more people on bikes then on food crossing from O'Higgins to El Chalten. You can ride first 17km from Candelario Mancilla to the border, than you'll have to push your bike for 5km through the forest to Punta Norte de Lago del Desierto (North point) and Argentinian immigration. After you have two options to take a ferry to cross the lake (20$) or keep pushing your bike for 12km more to Punta Sur de Lago del Desierto (South point). Once there you can ride all the way to El Chalten, 37km.