Our detailed 12-day Everest Base Camp trek itinerary includes two acclimatization days in Namche Bazar and Dingboche. The itinerary is flexible and adjustable, we suggest a couple of alternative routes for the return walk that you don’t walk to the Base Camp and back the same way.
The Everest Base Camp trek is a lifetime adventure for many people. We’ve done the trek twice and every time it was an incredible experience. We’ve done quite a lot of hiking in Nepal including some of the famous routes such as the Annapurna Circuit trek and Annapurna Base Camp trek and the EBC trek is still one of our favorite routes in the Himalayas.

There are different route options on the Everest Base Camp trek it can be combined with the Gokyo Lakes trek or the Three Passes trek. In this post, you can find the standard EBC trek itinerary from Lukla and back.
Make sure you take the right stuff on the trek! Check our detailed EBC packing guide.
2023 update for the Everest Base Camp trek
In March 2023 the Nepalese Tourism Board made an important change that concerns all foreign trekkers in Nepal. From the 1st of April 2023, all independent trekkers have to hire a guide for hiking most routes in the mountains including the Everest Base Camp trek. Th decision was announced just a couple of weeks before the start of the season which in my opinion will lead to a lot of confusion among trekkers.
If you’re still planning to do the Everest Base Camp trek you can try to find a guide once in Nepal but it might be very stressful as there will be many other hikers looking for guides and I’m not sure they have enough licensed guides to cover the new demand. Booking the trek through a company might be a less stressful option.
We’ve done the EBC trek independently twice I can’t recommend a company from our experience but I’ve found some tours with good ratings.
- 12D11N Everest Base Camp Trek
- Everest Base Camp Trek – 12 days
- Kathmandu: 14-Day Everest Base Camp Trek
Everest Base Camp trek itinerary overview
- Distance – 120 km/75 mi
- Days required – 12 days
- Total ascent – 6015 m/19 734 ft
- Total descent – 5821 m/19 097 ft
- Highest point – 5640 m/18 500 ft Kala Patthar
- Difficulty – difficult
- Permits – Local Government fee (NPR 2000/US$17 pp.) and Sagarmatha National Park permit (NPR 3000/US$25 pp.) are required. No TIMS card is needed for the trek.
- Cost per day – US$30 per person including food, accommodation, and permits. It doesn’t include a flight/jeep from Kathmandu to Lukla and back. Find out more about the hiking budget and prices in our Everest Base Camp trek cost post.
- Guide – not compulsory, can be done independently, with a guide or a porter, or in a group.
- Accommodation – guest houses

Insurance for the Everest Base Camp trek
The Everest Base Camp trek is a high-altitude trek through remote areas of Nepal. If you have serious altitude sickness or other serious medical problems in difficult-to-access like EBC or the Annapurna Circuit trek, it’s highly recommended to have travel insurance that will cover you for the whole period of your trek, evacuation by helicopter might be necessary.
Trekking insurance to an altitude above 5364m is required.
World Nomads travel insurance has been designed by travelers for travelers, with coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.How many days is the Everest Base Camp trek itinerary?
The average duration of the EBC trek is 12 -14 days. Our suggested itinerary is 12 days. It includes 2 acclimatization days and 1 day to get from Lukla to Kathmandu after completing the trek. In total out of 12 days you actually walk only 9 days. If you want to walk shorter days or have more rest days you can adjust the itinerary the way it suits you. I wouldn’t recommend walking it over a shorter period of time especially the part of the base camp due to high altitudes. You can extend the suggested itinerary by walking one of the additional routes of the Everest Base Camp trek.
We’ve walked to the Everest Base Camp twice April-May and February-March. Read more details when is the best time for hiking to Everest Base Camp.
Our detailed Everest Base Camp trek itinerary
Day 1 Lukla – Monjo 13 km/8 mi | Day 2 Monjo – Namche 6,5 km/4 mi | Day 3 Acclimatization day in Namche |
Day 4 Namche – Tengboche 11 km/6,8 mi | Day 5 Tengboche – Dingboche 10,5 km/6,5 mi | Day 6 Acclimatization day in Dingboche |
Day 7 Dingboche – Lobuche 8,7 km/5,5 mi | Day 8 Lobuche – Gorak Shep – EBC – Gorak Shep 12 km/7,4 mi | Day 9 Gorak Shep – Kala Patthar – Pangboche 22 km/13,6 mi |
Day 10 Pangboche – Namche 15,5 km/9,6 mi | Day 11 Namche – Lukla 20 km/12,4 mi | Day 12 Flight Lukla – Kathmandu |
Day 1. Flight Kathmandu – Lukla. Walk Lukla (2800m) – Monjo (2800m)
Kathmandu – Lukla – Chheplung – Ghat – Phakding – Bengkar – Monjo
A flight to Lukla is probably the most unpredictable part of the Everest Base Camp trek itinerary. It was the second time we took the flight and this time it was less bumpy, it went very quickly, with no problems or delays (which happen very often). We booked the earliest flight available because early flights usually go without delays. Later in the day it often gets windy and flights get postponed or canceled.
Flight Kathmandu/Ramuchhap – Lukla
- There are several airlines operating flights Kathmandu – Lukla; Tara/Yeti Air, Summit Air,
- From 20th March 2020 due to heavy congestion, all flights to and from Lukla depart from Ramechhap airport, 130km, a 4-hour drive from Kathmandu. It means now it’ll take 2 days to get to Lukla from Kathmandu though the flight price is the same.
- You have to be at the airport an hour before the flight.
- The flight is about 40 minutes (from both Kathmandu and Ramuchhap).
- You’re allowed to have 10kg check-in luggage and 5kg hand luggage.
- The best views of the mountains you get sitting on the left side (on the way to Lukla).
Trek Lukla (2800m) – Monjo (2800m)
- Distance – 13 km/8 mi
- Time – 3h45min.*
- Total ascent – 530 m/1738 ft
- Total descent – 543 m/1781 ft
*We’re quite fit hikers to get an average walking time, add to our times 1-2 hours (depending on the distance and inclination). The times don’t include long stops when we stop for tea or lunch we pause the watch.

Highlights
- View of the mountains from the plane
- Several long suspension bridges
- Several stupas (a hemispherical structure used for meditation), Mani stones (stones with carved and painted Nepali scripts), and prayer wheels (a metal cylindrical wheel on a spindle).
- Beautiful nature; rivers, pine forests, snowy peaks, small waterfalls, etc.
Challenges
- A long ascent from Lukla to Phakding, about m down
- A long descent on the last 3km to Monjo
Lukla is the beginning of the walking part of the Everest Base Camp trek itinerary. The first day is always difficult you have to get used to the altitude, our backpacks, the cold, etc. The trail is easy to follow, it starts at the exit from Lukla. It was a typical walking day in the Himalayas you start and finish at the same altitude, 2800m but to get from point A to point B you go about 500m up and down.
There are several ATMs, pharmacies, and gear shops in Lukla. The ATMs give a max NPR 15 000/US$130 per withdrawal. The next place with ATMs is Namche Bazar but there you can get only NPR 10 000/US$85 at once.
At Lukla (just before the exit gate), there is a ticket office where you get your first permits for the trek (local government permit), NPR 2000/US$17 per person. There are two checkpoints for the day, the first one right next to the ticket office, the second at about 9km, both check the permit that you buy in Lukla. Keep the permit till the end of the trek you’ll have to check out several times on the way back.
Alternative option
Depending on your arrival time in Lukla you can stop earlier. Phakding is a good place to stop on the first day. It’s about 8km from Lukla mostly downhill. There are many guesthouses, restaurants and cafes here. The main drawback of staying in Phakding instead of Monjo is that your second-day walk to Namche will be tougher and longer, 11km instead of 6,5km, and 900m up instead of 662m.
Stops on the route from Lukla to Monjo
There were really many guesthouses and restaurants, at least every 1km you get a place to stop no need to worry about finding accommodation or food. Here are the biggest villages on the trek.
Name | Chheplung | Ghat | Phakding | Bengkar | Monjo |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Distance | 2km | 5km | 8km | 11km | 13km |
Elevation | 2664m | 2548m | 2600m | 2720m | 2780m |
Guesthouse | + | + | + | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + | + | + | + |
Shop | + | + | + | + | + |
Electricity | + | + | + | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + | + | + | |
Wi-fi | + | + | + | + |
Day 2. Monjo (2780m) – Namche Bazar (3440m)
Monjo – Jorsale – Namche Bazar
- Distance – 6,5 km/4 mi
- Time – 2h.
- Total ascent – 662 m/2171 ft
- Total descent – 70 m/230 ft

Highlights
- A couple of impressive suspension bridges
- Beautiful views on the way up to Namche
- Namche Bazar, the village itself, and scenic views of the surrounding mountain peaks
Challenges
- Basically, the whole day is one steep and long ascent, about 600m that starts at about 2km from Monjo
It’s a very short walking day but with a long ascent and no places to stop in between, except for one village at about 1km. It’s important to make sure that you carry enough water. After you start the ascent there will be no place on the route to refill it. Don’t walk up fast, make rest stops on the way, and drink enough water it’ll help to prevent AMS (acute mountain sickness).
At about 2km, right after the second suspension bridge, there is a split, take the left route that goes along the river, it’s a new trail. The upper route is quite muddy it’s used by donkeys and yaks.
There are two checkpoints on the route, the first one is at the exit from Monjo, where you pay NPR 3000/US$25 for the Sagarmatha National Park permit. The second is at 6km, just before Namche where they check both permits the Sagarmatha National park and the permit that you bought in Lukla. Keep both permits until the end of the trek.
Stops on the route from Monjo to Namche
Name | Jorsale | Namche Bazar |
---|---|---|
Distance | 1km | 6,5km |
Elevation | 2740m | 3440m |
Guesthouse | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + |
Shop | + | + |
Electricity | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + |
Wi-fi | + | + |
Other | ATM, pharmacy, currency exchange |
Day 3. Acclimatization day in Namche Bazar (3440m)
It’s very important to include an acclimatization day in Namche in your Everest Base Camp trek itinerary even if you feel fine.
On the acclimatization day, you can do a short hike to one of the Everest viewpoints, it’s called an acclimatization hike. The most popular hike is to Hotel Everest View, about 1 hour uphill from Namche, or to Sagarmatha National Park Museum, about 20min. walk uphill. It’s not compulsory to do the hike if you don’t feel like it, rather stay in your room and rest. We usually don’t do acclimatization hikes we prefer just resting, drinking a lot of tea, and reading.
There are many coffee shops and bakeries in Namche. Overall food on the Everest Base Camp trek is very nice. On your acclimatization day, you can just wander around, drink tea, eat and rest. Take it easy, you should rest, drink enough water or tea and enjoy your free day. We didn’t do any hiking on our day in Namche just walked around and caught up with some work.
Make sure to charge full all your electronic devices in Namche from there on you’ll have to pay extra for charging.

Day 4. Namche Bazar (3440m) – Tengboche (3890m)
Namche Bazar – Kyangjuma – Leushyasa – Phungi Thanga – Tengboche
- Distance – 11 km/6,8 mi
- Time – 3h.50min.
- Total ascent – 873 m/2864 ft
- Total descent – 453 m/1486 ft

Highlights
- Everest viewpoint (Sagarmatha National Park Museum) – stunning views of the mountain range and snowy peaks
- Breathtaking views on the way from Namche to Kyangjuma
- Beautiful Monastery in Tengboche
Challenges
- The trail was partly muddy and partly icy we used our walking sticks every time we had to go down.
- Several ascents and descents on the way from Namche to Phungi Thanga.
- A very long and steep ascent 600m to Tengboche at the end of the day
One of the most challenging days in our Everest Base Camp trek itinerary by that stage. Stunning views along the route mainly in the first part of the walk. The toughest part is knowing that you have to go 400m up but before that, you go 200m down which makes it 600m up over the last 2km.
At the beginning of the day, we did a small detour (500m) and went to the Everest viewpoint, we were quite lucky with the weather in the morning and could see several snowy peaks around.
As you start going higher up it’s important to stay hydrated. Don’t go too fast, make stops, rest, drink water, and don’t push yourself too hard.
There is one checkpoint for the day after the suspension bridge just before the ascent to Tengboche.
Alternative option
If you’re not feeling great tired, headache, nausea, tiredness, etc. don’t go all the way to Tengboche rather stop at one of the places on the way at a lower elevation, e.g. Phudgi Thanga and the next day continue the walk. It’s better to progress slowly but make it all the way to the Base Camp than to go fast and get sick somewhere on the way. People acclimatize differently, even the same person but in different circumstances might react in a different way to the same altitude.
Stops on the route from Namche Bazar to Tengboche
Name | Kyangjuma | Leushyasa | Phungi Thanga | Tengboche |
---|---|---|---|---|
Distance | 5km | 7km | 8km | 11km |
Elevation | 3600m | 3440m | 3320m | 3890m |
Guesthouse | + | + | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + | + | + |
Shop | + | + | + | + |
Electricity | + | + | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + | ||
Wi-fi | + | + | + |

Day 5. Tengboche (3890m) – Dingboche (4350m)
Tengboche – Deboche – Milinggo – Pangboche – Shomare – Dingboche
- Distance – 10,5 km/6,5 mi
- Time – 3h.50min.
- Total ascent – 660 m/2165 ft
- Total descent – 236 m/774 ft

Highlights
- Beautiful sunrise and stunning views at Tengboche in the morning
- Beautiful scenery on the way from Pangboche to Dingboche
- Dingboche is a small village with great views from the surrounding hills
Challenges
- A muddy/icy path down from Tengboche to Pangboche
- Multiple ups and downs on the way
- A steep ascent at the end from the river to Dingboche, about 200m up
It was another tough day in our Everest Bae Camp ttrek itinerary. You get above 4000m and the altitude makes you tired, even a slight ascent leaves you out of breath. If you don’t feel well it’s better to stop earlier in Pangboche or Shomare, both places are only 100-200m higher than Tengboche. Dingboche is 500m higher it’s not recommended to gain that much elevation if you’re not 100% acclimatized for the lower altitude.
Many guesthouses and restaurants along the route were still closed for the off-season we walked The Everest Base Camp trek at the beginning of March.

There is a split at 8km. The upper route (the left trail) goes over Pheriche Pass to Pheriche. The lower route (the right trail) goes down to the river and then up to Dingboche. Both routes merge again at Thokla (Dughla). You can go either way most trekkers walk through Dingboche on the way up and through Pheriche on the way down. Pheriche is about 150m lower than Dingboche. Dingboche has better views and is a bit warmer. Pheriche is located in a narrow valley with very little sunshine.
Stops on the route from Tengboche to Dingboche
Name | Deboche | Milinggo | Pangboche | Shomare | Dingboche |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Distance | 1km | 2km | 4,5km | 6,5km | 10,5km |
Elevation | 3730m | 3770m | 3940m | 4040m | 4350m |
Guesthouse | + | + | + | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + | + | + | + |
Shop | + | + | + | + | + |
Electricity | + | + | + | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + | + | + | |
Wi-fi | + | + | + | + |
Day 6. Acclimatization day in Dingboche (4350m)
We decided to include another acclimatization day in our EBC trek itinerary after ascending more than 500m in one day. It’s a standard itinerary most group tours do an acclimatization stop in Dingboche. We didn’t have any symptoms of AMS and had a very good sleep at night but out of precaution decided to rest for an extra day. We met some people that didn’t feel great after arriving in Dingboche for them a rest day was a must.
Some people do acclimatization hikes from Dingboche to one of the nearby peaks. We just walked around a bit, went to the stupas at the top of the hills, and spent the rest of the day in the dining rooms, drinking tea and relaxing.
Acclimatization days are usually the most expensive days on the trek because you spend more on food and tea. On both acclimatization days, we spent quite a bit of money. It helps if you bring snacks, tea bags, and chocolates with you. We have a detailed post about food on the Everest Base Camp trek where you can find what food you can get and prices.
If you want to buy some chocolates, snacks or cookies do it in Dingboche, in Lobuche (the next day stop) everything is about NPR 100-200/US$1-2 more expensive.

Day 7. Dingboche (4350m) – Lobuche (4920m)
Dingboche – Dughla (Thokla) – Lobuche
- Distance – 8,7 km/5,5 mi
- Time – 3h.25min.
- Total ascent – 696 m/2283 ft
- Total descent – 97 m/318 ft

Highlights
- Beautiful scenery on the way from Dingboche to Dughla (Thokla); snow peaks, glaciers, and a river.
- Breathtaking scenery from the top of Thokla Pass all the way to Lobuche; the trail goes through a narrow valley surrounded by mountains.
Challenges
- A steep short ascent from Dingboche to the top of the hill.
- A steep long ascent over the pass from Dughla, about 300m.
The walk was very beautiful, the most beautiful day on the Everest Base Camp trek so far. There is only one place to stop on the way between Dingboche and Lobuche – Dughla. I’d recommend stopping there for tea and rest a little bit because from there you start the main ascent for the day which is quite challenging due to increasing elevation.
It’s important to walk slowly especially on the way up, today you’ll be getting close to 5000m and every breath counts.
After the pass, the walk is pretty flat and easy along the river with fantastic views.
Stops on the route from Dingboche to Lobuche
Name | Dughla (Thokla) | Lobuche |
---|---|---|
Distance | 5,5km | 8,7km |
Elevation | 4600m | 4920m |
Guesthouse | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + |
Shop | + | + |
Electricity | + | + |
Hot shower | + | |
Wi-fi | + |

Day 8. Lobuche (4920m) – Gorak Shep (5130m) – Everest Base Camp (5340m) – Gorak Shep (5130m)
- Total distance – 12 km/7,4 mi
- Total walking time – 5h.
- Total ascent – 615 m/2017 ft
- Total descent – 357 m/1171 ft
Hike Lobuche (4920m) – Gorak Shep (5130m)
- Distance – 5 km/3 mi
- Time – 2h.15min.
- Ascent – 328 m/1076 ft
- Descent – 77 m/252 ft

Highlights
- Beautiful views of the mountain peaks, ice crates, ice lakes, etc.
Challenges
- A couple of steep but short ascents and descents though due to the altitude every up is very tough and tiring.
- Some parts of the route were a bit icy and slippery we had to use our walking sticks.
- The high elevation of Gorak Shep we arrived there quite tired, I had a slight headache.
It’s better to start walking earlier in order to arrive in Gorak Sherp before midday to have enough time to go to Everest Base Camp and back before it gets dark.
It was a very short though quite demanding walking day, with many short ascents and descents along the way and no places to stop for tea or rest. The scenery was amazing every time you finish an up don’t forget to look around.
Be prepared that you might not have a good sleep at Gorak Shep many people struggle to sleep at this altitude (including myself), don’t worry if you didn’t get a chance to rest well the next day you’ll start going down.
Name | Gorak Shep |
---|---|
Distance | 5km |
Elevation | 5130m |
Guesthouse | + |
Restaurant | + |
Shop | + |
Electricity | + |
Hot shower | + |
Wi-fi | + |

Hike Gorak Shep (5130m) – Base Camp (5340m) – Gorak Shep (5130m)
- Distance – 7 km/4,3 mi
- Time – 2h.50min.
- Ascent – 287 m/941 ft
- Descent – 280 m/918 ft

We arrived in Gorak Shep between 11am and 12pm, checked in, left our backpacks in the room, drank tea and went to the Everest Base Camp. The walk was longer and tougher than the walk to Gorak Shep with several ascents and descents.
The trail is not very well marked if you walk without a guide, make sure not to lose it. In the peak season it’s not a problem there is a long line of people walking to the Base Camp from Gorak Shep. Off-season you might be the only person going that way. There was a girl at our guesthouse that went solo to the Base Camp. On the way back she took a wrong turn and got lost. She arrived at Gorak Sherp 7 hours later. If you’re going alone join other trekkers it’s safer.
Day 9. Gorak Shep (5130m) – Kala Patthar (5640m) – Gorak Shep (5130m) – Pangboche (3940m)
Gorak Shep – Kala Patthar – Gorak Shep – Lobuche – Dughla – Pheriche – Shomare – Pangboche
- Total distance – 22 km/13,6 mi
- Total walking time – 7h15min.
- Total ascent – 672 m/2200 ft
- Total descent – 1782 m/5846 ft
Hike Gorak Shep (5130m) – Kala Patthar (5640m) – Gorak Shep (5130m)
- Distance – 4 km/2,5 mi
- Time – 2h.
- Ascent – 462 m/1515 ft
- Descent – 462m/1515 ft

Kala Patar is the highest point in the Everest Base Camp trek itinerary, 5640 m. Many people go to the top of Kala Patar for the sunrise we did it once it was beautiful but in the winter it’s too cold to go up that early. This time we started walking at 7.30am. The walk is very challenging and tough. The ascent takes between 1h30min. and 2hours, the descent is around 30-40min.
It’s always very windy and cold on the top. Walking sticks might be quite useful on the way down. The trail is quite clear all the way to the top except the last bit the rocky part you can go up pretty much anywhere.
Usually, hikers leave their backpacks in the room, go up to Kala Patar, come down, check out, and start the walk back. How far to go from Gorak Shep is up to you depending on your tiredness level, weather conditions, etc. I’d recommend going down at least to Lobuche, staying over 5000m for 2 nights is exhausting.

Hike Gorak Shep (5130m) – Pangboche (3940m)
- Distance – 19 km/12 mi
- Time – 5h.30min.
- Ascent – 210 m/688 ft
- Descent – 1320m/4330 ft


Highlights
- Breathtaking views on the way from Kala Patthar down to Dughla (Thokla).
- Beautiful views from the valley over the mountain range and the snow peaks.
- Great views of the river and the mountains on the way from Pheriche Pass to Pangboche.
Challenges
- Long ascent to Dughla, though it’s much easier to go down than up.
- Pheriche Pass is the only significant ascent for the day.
On a nice day, the walk down is quite easy but if you feel tired after climbing Kala Patthar you can shorten the day and stop earlier e.g. in Pheriche, which is about 8km from Gorak Shep. The route through Pheriche is shorter than through Dingboche, about 30min. difference.
Dingboche is considered to be a nice place to stop on the way up, it’s warmer, and the views are nicer. Pheriche is a good place to stop as well. There are many guesthouses, it’s on the route, and it’s a bit lower than Dingboche. The only problem with walking through Pheriche there might be too much water, especially in the spring. If it rained a lot I’d recommend choosing the upper route through Dingboche if it’s relatively dry, follow the lower shorter route through Pheriche.
It’s a long walking day but there are several villages on the way where you can stop for tea or lunch.
Stops on the route from Gorak Shep to Pangboche
Name | Lobuche | Dughla | Pheriche | Shomare | Pangboche |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Distance | 5km | 7,2km | 12km | 16km | 19km |
Elevation | 4920m | 4600m | 42660m | 4040m | 3940m |
Guesthouse | + | + | + | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + | + | + | + |
Shop | + | + | + | + | + |
Electricity | + | + | + | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + | + | + | |
Wi-fi | + | + | + | + |

Alternative route option
There is an alternative route to Namche from Pangboche. If you don’t want to walk the same way through Tengboche. Instead of going to Pangboche, you can walk to Pangboche Gompa which is about 80m above Pangboche. There is a split about 200m before Pangboche, the right route goes up to Pangboche Gompa, and the left route (the lower route) goes to Pangboche. Pangboche Gompa is a very nice beautiful village with a couple of guesthouses, restaurants, and a monastery. It’s less touristy and quieter.
Day 10. Pangboche (3940m)/Pangboche Gompa (4028m) – Namche Bazar (3440m)
There is another route option in the Everest Base Camp trek itinerary. Two ways of walking from Pangboche to Namche; through Tengboche (the same way you walk to EBC) or through Phortse (a more scenic but more challenging route).

The standard route. Pangboche to Namche through Tengboche
- Distance – 15,5 km/9,6 mi
- Time – 5h.
- Total ascent – 613 m/2011 ft
- Total descent – 1083m/3553 ft
Following this route, you walk the same way to and back. Despite going down you’ll still have a couple of ascents to conquer, the first ascent is from Deboche to Tengboche, about 160m, and the second one from Pungi Thanga to Kyangjuma, is about 300m.
Stops on the route from Pangboche to Tengboche
Name | Milinggo | Deboche | Tengboche |
---|---|---|---|
Distance | 2,5km | 3,5km | 4,5km |
Elevation | 3770m | 3730m | 3890m |
Guesthouse | + | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + | + |
Shop | + | + | + |
Electricity | + | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + | |
Wi-fi | + | + |
Stops on the route from Tengboche to Namche Bazar
Name | Phungi Thanga | Leushyasa | Kyangjuma | Namche |
---|---|---|---|---|
Distance | 7,5km | 8,5km | 10,7km | 15,5km |
Elevation | 3320m | 3440m | 3600m | 3440m |
Guesthouse | + | + | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + | + | + |
Shop | + | + | + | + |
Electricity | + | + | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + | ||
Wi-fi | + | + | + | |
Other | ATM, pharmacy |
The alternative route. Pangboche Gompa to Namche through Phortse
- Distance – 19 km/11,8 mi
- Time – 6h.
- Total ascent – 805 m/2641 ft
- Total descent – 1362 m/4468 ft


This route is more challenging than the one through Tengboche. The alternative route is about 200m more up and 350m more down compared to the standard route through Tengboche. If you’re tired from going up and down and want to follow the easiest route rather go through Tengboche. If you don’t mind putting in extra effort you’ll be rewarded with the stunning scenery along the route.
From Pangboche Gompa you continue walking on the right side of the river towards Phortse. The route from Pangboche Gompa to Phortse has many ups and downs but the views from there are spectacular. You get to see Tengboche and the monastery from the opposite side of the river. The views on this route are more impressive than on the route through Tengboche plus you don’t walk the same route to and back.
The most challenging part is past Phortse. First, you go all the way down to the river, you might need your walking sticks the trail is very muddy and slippery. After crossing the river you start going up, it’s a very steep and long ascent all the way to the top of the mountain with a subsequent long but not very steep descent.
Name | Phortse | Phortse Thanga | Mong | Kyangjuma | Namche |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Distance | 7km | 9,5km | 11,5km | 14km | 19km |
Elevation | 3800m | 3680m | 3990m | 3600m | 3440m |
Guesthouse | + | + | + | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + | + | + | + |
Shop | + | + | + | + | + |
Electricity | + | + | + | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + | + | + | + |
Wi-fi | + | + | + | + | + |
Other | ATM, pharmacy |

Day 11. Namche Bazar (3440m) – Lukla (2800m)
Namche Bazar – Jorsale – Monjo – Bengkar – Phakding – Ghat – Chheplung – Lukla
- Distance – 20 km/12,4 mi
- Time – 5h.20min.
- Total ascent – 694 m/2276 ft
- Total descent – 1200 m/3937 ft

Challenges
- A long and steep 600m descent from Namche to the river.
- A long ascent, about 200m, on the last couple of kilometers to Lukla
The day was more difficult than we expected. The first half from Namche to Ghat was pretty easy mostly going down with very few short ascents. The ascent starts from Ghat which is at 2548 m, and continues all the way to Lukla. Make sure you start from Namche early enough and don’t underestimate the last walking day.
Stops on the route from Namche to Phakding
Name | Jorsale | Monjo | Bengkar | Phakding |
---|---|---|---|---|
Distance | 5,5km | 6,5km | 8,5km | 11km |
Elevation | 2740m | 2780m | 2720m | 2600m |
Guesthouse | + | + | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + | + | + |
Shop | + | + | + | + |
Electricity | + | + | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + | + | + |
Wi-fi | + | + | + |
Stops on the route from Phakding to Lukla
Name | Ghat | Chheplung | Lukla |
---|---|---|---|
Distance | 14,5km | 17,5km | 20km |
Elevation | 2548m | 2664m | 2800m |
Guesthouse | + | + | + |
Restaurant | + | + | + |
Shop | + | + | + |
Electricity | + | + | + |
Hot shower | + | + | |
Wi-fi | + | + | + |
Other | ATM, pharmacy |

Day 12. Flight Lukla – Kathmandu/Ramuchhap
The last day of the Everest Base Camp trek itinerary doesn’t include any walking except a couple of hundred meters to the airport. It’s better to book an early flight from Lukla. After 8am it usually gets windy and many times later flights get canceled. We flew with Tara Air our flight was 30 minutes late. You have to be at the airport 30min. before your flight. They do some manual security checks but it’s very quick.
Where to stay in Kathmandu?
We stayed at Aryatara Kathmandu Hotel many times. Every time we finished a trek we came back for a couple of days. The staff is very helpful and friendly. We stored our extra luggage here every time we went hiking for free without any problem.
- Budget | Hotel Yala Peak | Om Tara Guest House |
- Middle price | Oasis Kathmandu Hotel | Hotel Blue Horizon |
- Luxury | Fairfield by Marriott Kathmandu |
EBC trek books and guidebooks
If you prefer e-books over paper books don’t hesitate to join Amazon Kindle Unlimited to get access to thousands of e-books and audiobooks. Even if you don’t have a Kindle device you can read or listen to books on your phone or tablet using the app. The first 30 days of the program are free.
- A Trekking Guide to Langtang (Himalayan Travel Guides). Second edition, 2018. Kindle & Paperback.
- Lonely Planet Nepal (Travel Guide), 2018. Paper book & Kindle
- The Snow Leopard by Pieter Matthiessen. Paper book & Kindle
- Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster by Jon Krakauer. Paper book & Kindle.
- Yak Girl: Growing Up in the Remote Dolpo Region of Nepal by Dorje Dolma. Paperback & Kindle.
- Little Princes: One Man’s Promise to Bring Home the Lost Children of Nepal by Conor Grennan. Paper book & Kindle
- A Step Away from Paradise: The True Story of a Tibetan Lama’s Journey to a La

The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.
Gaurav
Sunday 16th of April 2023
Thank you for sharing lots of useful info in a consolidated manner. I am planning a EBC and Annapurna trek in May and was wondering if you have any recommendations in terms of hiking shoes, down jacket and a bag pack.
What hiking shoes would you recommend? Is 750 or 850 down jacket needed given I will be wearing multi layers. How cold is it at night time on highest 3 three rests on both treks. What bag pack would you recommend that enables me to travel light?
Thanks a lot in advance.
Stingy Nomads
Wednesday 19th of April 2023
Hello Gaurav. Thank you for the comment. We have a detailed packing list post where you can find information on the gear we recommend for the Everest Base Camp trek https://stingynomads.com/everest-base-camp-packing-list/. As for the down jacket we had thin foldable down jackets when we did the EBC in February. We wore thermal tops and fleeces underneath and it was fine. I would still recommend having a thin down jacket even if you wear multiple layers. It gets quite cold after Namche Basar even in May it can go below 0C at night. Cheers
Tanya
Tuesday 7th of March 2023
How difficult to find accommodation along the track without pre-booking anything in advance? We are planning to go this coming April and want to go without guide.
Stingy Nomads
Thursday 9th of March 2023
Hello Tanya, we have never had any difficulty finding accommodation on the EBC trek even in peak season. Just be aware of the new regulations regarding trekking with a guide that was made public this week. I understand that from 1 April 2023 trekking without a guide will no longer be allowed for foreigners on most trekking routes in Nepal, including trekking to Everest Base Camp. Please confirm on official sources.
Karen L
Friday 10th of December 2021
hi, really appreciate all the details you have shared here! I've read so many conflicting reviews of the lodges in Gorak Shep. I know to not expect much. Do you have thoughts on Everest Inn? I saw comments from others who have done the trek to avoid Buddha Lodge. Thanks!
Stingy Nomads
Friday 10th of December 2021
Hello, Karen. Thank you for the comment. We stayed at Himalaya Lodge (there is information in the post about the cost and the facilities of it) and it was fine. A room was just a typical guest house room on the trek, the dining area was nice and warm, the food was quite good, of course, more expensive than in other places along the route but it's understandable. We have never stayed at Buddha Lodge or Everest Inn. Cheers
Annie Smith
Sunday 30th of May 2021
Hi guys! Your info has been so incredibly helpful as we plan our trip for this October (2021). I was wondering what you spent of average for food each day of the trek (not including days at Kathmandu and Lukla). Thanks for providing such a detailed itinerary!
Stingy Nomads
Sunday 30th of May 2021
Hello, Annie. Thank you for the comment. We have a detailed post on the cost of walking to Everest Base Camp https://stingynomads.com/everest-base-camp-trek-cost/ where you can find a lot of information regarding prices and our expenses on the trek. Cheers!
Petrus
Saturday 6th of February 2021
The High Scenic Route via Mong La and Phortse to Pangpoche should be used on the way up, not down. Much more impressive then, much wildlife, solitude, awesome views. Return via Tengpoche.
Stingy Nomads
Sunday 7th of February 2021
Hi! Where does it say it should be used on the way up or down? The views are impressive regardless of if you walk up or down that route. I think it's up to hikers to decide which way to go. There is no official guideline on that. You can walk it any way you want we walked it on the way down but there is no right or wrong here. Cheers!