Campbell & Alya at Thorong La pass, Annapurna circuit, Nepal
HIKING hiking Nepal

Complete guide to trekking Annapurna circuit, Nepal

Annapurna circuit became one of our favorite treks in Nepal, we’ve done several treks including famous Everest Base Camp, Poon Hill and Mardi Himal treks. We didn’t expect much from the route as we heard and read a lot about the road that was built in the park and completely spoiled the trekking route so we couldn’t even decide where to start walking. Now after completing the whole circuit we can say that the road wasn’t as bad as we thought and the scenery exceeded our expectations. Here is our detailed guide to Annapurna circuit we sincerely hope it’ll help you to plan the trek.

For detailed day by day itinerary with distances, elevation profiles, places to stay and facilities on the route go to Annapurna circuit trek itinerary.

Annapurna circuit facts

  • Distance – 260 km/161 mi (if walking the complete route)
  • Time required – 15-18 days 
  • Cost – about NRP 2440/US$22 per person per day
  • Starting point – Bhulbhule (7 km from Besisahar) 
  • Finishing point – Nayapul 
  • Highest point – Thorong La pass (5400 m)
  • Total elevation gain (in 15 days) – 11 685 m
  • Total elevation loss (in 15 days) -11 358 m
  • Walking on the road – 68 km out of 260 km but only about 24 km were on a busy road.
  • Accommodation – guesthouses
  • Food – Nepali, Indian, Chinese, Western food
  • Permits – TIMS card and Annapurna Sanctuary permit required 

Route options on the Annapurna circuit

It was our first question when we started planning the trek and I must say it wasn’t easy to find an answer. After checking several websites and itineraries we got totally overwhelmed by the number of different options so we decided to walk the complete route in order to write a post that will help people to plan their Annapurna circuit. Where to start and to finish depends on how much time you have and how far you want to walk.

Which route to choose depends totally on you but in my opinion cutting the circuit down to the walk over Thorong La pass you’ll miss out quite a lot. I’d suggest to take one of the longer routes and walk for 7-10 days to get an idea about the route and the diversity it offers to trekkers. The busiest part of the trek was from Manang to Muktinath before and especially after than there will be less people, on the part from Jomsom to Tatopani we were hardly 10 trekkers a day compared to a couple of hundreds that go a day over the pass.

Many people stop in Muktinath and take a bus from there to Jomsom, Tatopani or Pokhara but we really liked the scenery on the way from Muktinath to Lubra, over Lubra pass. After Jomsom the scenery is very similar to the first part of the circuit (from Besisahar to Chame) so if you don’t have enough time you can finish the walk in Jomsom or skip this part and get by bus to Tatopani from where you can continue walking to Nayapul.

Where to start the Annapurna circuit

Basically you can start anywhere between Besisahar and Manang. By bus you can get only as far as Ngadi from there your choice is to walk or to take a jeep. We started at Bhulbhule, 7 km from Besisahar just after the entrance to Annapurna Sanctuary. Actually we started walking from Besisahar but after 2 km of walking on the busy road decided to catch a bus, that part of the route was the worst and the busiest on the whole circuit. Technically Besisahar in not inside Annapurna Conservation area, it used to be the closest town to the park where you can get by transport before the construction of the road. We decided to skip that part of the road and start at Bhulbhule which is about 1 km after the park entrance (a checkpoint where you show your Annapurna permit).

Several people get by jeep to Syange which we reached by the end of our first day and start walking from here, we didn’t like the village too much and stayed in a guesthouse located in a quiet spot on the opposite side of the river in Ghermu, a small village.

After talking to several trekkers that we met on the route including a couple of groups we made a conclusion that Jagat is one of the most popular places to start the circuit. We reached Jagat in the beginning of the second day so if you start there you’ll skip only one walking day. The main thing you’ll miss by take a jeep that far is Syange waterfall probably the only big waterfall on the route that you can get really close to.

Scenery around Manang, Annapurna circuit trek
Stunning scenery around Manang, the last point before the pass where you can get by car

Starting in Chame is another popular option that some companies offer not many individual trekkers go that far by jeep. We reached Chame on the fourth day of our trek. Chame is located at 2726 m above the sea level which is 2000 m higher than Besisahar or Pokhara some people might start having some slight symptoms of altitude sickness as a result of getting here too fast. The route gets busier the closer to Manang you get we couldn’t believe how many people were on the route all of a sudden.

Some groups (mainly Chinese) get by jeep all the way to Manang and start walking towards the pass even without taking an extra acclimatization day, in this case the trek will take only four days (if finish in Muktinath), you might spend as much time driving around as hiking. If you do it this way you get in a couple of hours from 700 m to over 3500 m which increases your chances of getting altitude sickness. Another reason we don’t recommend this option is because you miss out a lot on the way, one of the main highlights of Annapurna circuit for us was to see how much the scenery and the vegetation change as you go higher; we started with +30C surrounded by banana trees and coffee plantations and get to knee deep snow and pine tree forest just in a couple of days.

Where to finish the circuit

Like with the starting points there are several options where to finish the circuit after Thorong La pass. In my opinion if you don’t have time or don’t feel like walking all the way to Tatopani or Nayapul rather finish in Jomsom and take a flight back to Pokhara. We saw the road from Muktinath to Tatopani and in some places it looked quite bad to drive takes the whole day and it’s not a very pleasant experience.  

Muktinath is the first place after the pass from where you can take a bus or a jeep, many trekkers finish here. You can take a bus or a jeep to Jomsom, Tatopani or Pokhar.

Bus prices from Muktinath (jeep will be at least double the price);

  • to Jomsom – NRP 350/US$3,3 – 2 hours
  • to Tatopani – NRP 1200/US$10 – 7 hours
  • to Pokhara – NRP 1450/US$13 – 12 hours

Jomsom is another very popular place to finish the circuit here you have two options of getting back to Pokhara; flying or taking a bus/jeep. Most people finish in Muktinath or here, after Jomsom we were only a handful of people walking. The main reason nobody wants to walk on from Jomsom is the road, many people think you have to walk on the road all the way till Tatopani but in fact we hardly walked a couple of kilometers on the road between Jomsom and Tatopani, see more details about it in the next section.

Bus prices from Jomsom;

  • to Tatopani – NRP 880/US$8 – 4-5 hours
  • to Pokhara – NRP 1110/US$10 – 9-10 hours
  • to Kathmandu – NRP 1700/US$15 – 20 hours

When we got to Tatopani we saw quite a lot of people again, many groups and solo trekkers take a bus from Muktinath or Jomsom to Tatopani, some want to split a long and exhausting bus trip to Pokhara (NRP 500/US$5), some continue walking from here to Ghorepani, some come of the hot springs. We didn’t go to the hot springs because the one in the village didn’t look too attractive, another one was about 2 km walk outside Tatopani, it was raining and we didn’t feel like walking there and back.

From Tatopani we walked to Ghorepani and again there were very few trekkers on the route, we asked at one of the guesthouses on the way how many people they see a day and they told us between 10 and 15 walking both directions. From Ghorepani to Nayapul the very end of Annapurna circuit trek you’ll see many trekkers walking the opposite direction, the route here overlaps with the Poon Hill trek.

Some people walk from Tatopani to Beni I believe it used to be the end of the circuit before the road was built but most of the route goes along the busy road and technically the part after Tatopani is located outside Annapurna conservation area I wouldn’t recommend taking this options.

Dhumbra lake, Jomsom
Beautiful Dhumbra lake on the way from Jomsom

How much road walk is there on the circuit?

Many people (including us) before the start of the circuit wonder how much road walk is on the route. We made notes on the way to get the exact distance of walking on the road. Out of 260 km of the route we walked only 68 km on the dirt road. Some parts of the road were very quiet with little traffic, some parts were quite busy. I’d say out of 68 km of walking on the road only 24 km were on a busy dusty road with quite a lot of jeeps and buses.

To make it easier I decided to split the whole route into four parts to show how much walking on the road you get on each part.

The first part of the route from Bhulbhule to Manang had the biggest part of walking on the road though the road was quite busy only in the beginning. We tried to avoid the road everywhere we could on this stretch, there are several an alternative trekking routes but you should keep in mind that those routes are usually longer and involve steep ascends and descends.

From Manang to Muktinath there is not road only trekking route which is great as you finally can get completely away from cars and constructions vehicles though on the last part from Chame to Manang the road wasn’t busy at all.

Many people think on the part from Muktinath to Tatopani there is a lot of walking on the road but we hardly ever walked on it, the biggest part of the road we got on the way from Muktinath to Jomsom, the last 7 km were on the dusty road though you can skip some of it by walking down at the river.

From Jomsom to Tatopani we walked all the way on the new trekking route that goes on the opposite to the road side of the river, we could see the road most of the time but never had to cross it or even come close but it takes longer to walk on the trekking route than along the road. The trekking route used to be where the road is now which means the walk from Jomsom to Tatopani was pretty easy, straightforward without unnecessary ups and downs. The main inconvenience of the trekking route is that all the infrastructure; hotels, restaurants, shops etc. are on the opposite side of the river, on the road side every day we had to cross to the other side to find accommodation.

The last part from Tatopani to Nayapul was partly on the road but with very few cars except for the last bit from Hile to Birtethanti where we got several tourist jeeps but no buses or trucks.

Campbell on the way to Yak Kharka, Annapurna circuit
Campbell surrounded by the breathtaking scenery on the way from Manang to Yak Kharka

TIMS card and permit for Annapurna Circuit

For Annapurna circuit trek you have to get Annapurna Conservation Area permit  (ACAP) and a TIMS card. Both can be obtained at the Tourism Information Center in Pokhara (about 1,5 km from Lakeside) or in Kathmandu. We got ours in Pokhara, the office is opened Mon to Sun from 10am to 5pm. Note! Immigration office is located in the same building you can extend your visa there. To get a TIMS  (trekkers information management system) card and a permit you’ll need your passport, insurance (nobody asks to show it you but need the details to fill in the form), a contact person in Nepal (we usually give our hotel details) and 4 photos (can be taken at the office free of charge).

To get TIMS card;

  • First, fill the form that you get at the counter (name, insurance number, passport details, address in Nepal, contact information etc.)
  • Second, take a photo. No need to bring your own photos they take it right there at the office and it’s free of charge (4 passport size photos, it’s included in the price of your TIMS card).  
  • Third, give the filled form, two photos and pay NRP 2000/US$18 pp. (paid only in Nepalese Rupee) at the counter
  • Forth, get your TIMS.

Note! TIMS card and permit are valid only for a single entry to the park every time you exit you’ll have to get a new TIMS card and a new permit to enter the park again. 

To get Annapurna Sanctuary permit;

  • First, after getting your TIMS card go to the next door room and get the form
  • Second, fill in the form
  • Third, hand the filled form, passport, two photos and NRP 3000/US$27 pp.(paid only in Nepalese Rupee) at the counter.
  • Forth, get your permit.

If you don’t get a permit before the trek you can get it at the first checkpoint but it’ll cost you NRP 6000/US$54 instead of NRP 3000/US$27 that you pay in Pokhara or Kathmandu. You can’t get TIMS card at the entrance. We met a guy who didn’t get a new permit for Annapurna Conservation Area (he had the old one and his old TIMS card), at the first check-point he had to buy a new permit for NRP 6000/US$27 but he didn’t get a new TIMS card, he walked with the old one all the way and didn’t seem to have any problem. There are about 10 checkpoints on the route it’s difficult to go past all of them without being noticed.

Annapurna circuit trek cost

Food. In the beginning of the trek at lower altitudes a meal costs NRP 500/US$5 basically anything from local Dal Bat to Spaghetti or Momos. As you go higher food is getting more expensive after Chame a meal will costs NRP 600/US$6 average. The best value for money is actually Dal Bat usually you get bottomless rice, dal and roasted vegetables it will definitely be enough to make you full. We tried to stay away from meat dishes like chicken or beef we never had any stomach issues but met some travelers who had after eating meat or chicken. It’s different as you go higher there will be many dishes (steaks, burgers) with yak meat there are many yaks around so I assume the meat will be fresh. At highest altitudes a cost of a meal goes up to NRP 800/US$7,5.

Drinking water is another significant expense if you don’t have any filter or purification with. We didn’t buy water on the route just before coming to Nepal we bought a LifeStraw bottle, we used it all the time and it worked great we could refill it on the way from any water tap or stream which means we didn’t have to carry extra water or buy plastic bottles. A 1l bottle of water costs between NRP 50 and NRP 100.

Breakfast (porridge, omelette, muesli etc.)

  • at lower altitudes – NRP 300-400/US$3-4 pp.
  • at higher altitudes NRP 500-600/US$5-6 pp.

Lunch/dinner (Dal Bat, spaghetti, fried rice, spring roll, momo etc.)

  • at lower altitudes – NRP 450-500/US$4-5
  • at higher altitudes – NRP 700-800/US$7-8

Soup

  • at lower altitudes – NRP 200-250/US$2
  • at higher altitudes – NRP 300-450/US$3-4

Tea

  • At lower altitudes from NRP 50/US$0,5
  • At higher altitudes from NRP 120/US$1,1

Hot water

  • At lower altitudes from NRP 20/US$0,2 per cup
  • At higher altitudes up to NRP 90/US$0,9 per cup

Accommodation is very cheap on the route, average price for a double room with or without attached bathroom is NRP 200-300/US$2-3, they might ask more but always agree with that price in the end. A room for one person is about NRP 200/US$2 average. You have to eat dinner and breakfast at your guesthouse if you don’t you’ll pay much more for the room. Food not accommodation is the main income for locals. Sometimes we were not charged for the room at all even when we were supposed to we figured out that if you eat 3 meals like we usually did they think you spend enough money and don’t charge you for the room. Some place say in the beginning you can stay for free if you eat there. 

Transport. Prices depend on how far you go and if you use a bus or a jeep. Bus from Pokhara to Besisahar costs NRP 265/US$2,5 pp., bus from Besisahar to Bhulbhule – NRP 150/US$1,4 pp., jeep from Besisahar to Manang (the end of the road) – NRP 5000/US$45 pp. but I believe this price is negotiable and depends on your negotiation skills and what kind of jeep you take. If it’s a jeep that transport tourists it will be more expensive if you can get on a jeep that carries supplies it’ll be cheaper. We met a tourist that paid NRP 2500/US$22 pp. to get from Besisahar to Chame in a supply jeep.  

Daily cost on Annapurna circuit trek, for two people, in Nepalese Rupee
As you can see our daily cos increased as we went higher, the most expensive day was at Thorong Phedi (the highest place we stayed). After the pass the cost decreased as we went lower. *It doesn’t include buying hiking poles and real coffee that we had on the way.

* We didn’t pay for accommodation (5 nights) in Upper Pisang, Yak Kharka, Thorong Phedi, Muktinath and Ghandruk.

How much money to take on the circuit

I’d suggest to have minimum NRP 2200/US$20 per person per day, some days you might spend less some days more, it will be enough to buy 3 meals, a couple of teas and pay accommodation. Note! If you don’t use any water filter system and buy water along the way add NRP 100-200/US$1-2 per day.

For a comfortable walk without counting every dollar to make sure you have enough to last you till the end I’d suggest to budget NRP 2500-3000/US$22-27 per person per day. Note! Always add some extra days to your itinerary in case you get sick, the weather is too bad to continue, you need more time to acclimatize etc. It’s fine if you have some extra money left better than not having enough. 

How much money we spent on the Annapurna circuit, 15 days, 2 people

  • Food and tea – NRP 54 000/US$484
  • Permits – NRP 10000/US$90 (NRP 5000/US$45 per person)
  • Accommodation – NRP 3000/US$27
  • Real coffee (Espresso, cappuccino) – NRP 2800/US$25
  • Transport – NRP 1380/US$12
  • Other – NRP 2000/US$18

Total: NRP 73180/US$656 or NRP 2440/US$22 per person per day*

*We didn’t buy water on the circuit but if you do add NRP 150-200/US$1,5-2 pp. to your daily budget.

Pie chart of the expenses on the Annapurna circuit
As you can see on the pie chart food by far was our main expense on the circuit

Drawing money on Annapurna circuit

Besisahar – the gateway to Annapurna circuit and the last place before Thorong La pass with ATMs. 

Chame – you can draw money at Royal Garden Hotel & Restaurant, it’s on the route, on the way out of the town. They charge 12% you pay by Visa card to their account and they give you cash. We drew NRP 15000/US$135 just in case. Maybe there are other places on the way before Chame where you can do the same all you need is to find a place with a card machine. Note! There is an ATM in Chame but it’s only for local people, tourists are not allowed even inside the bank.

Jomsom – there are several ATMs some work only with Visa, some only with local cards, some accept everything. We drew money at Mega Bank Nepal Limited it was the only one in the town that worked for us.

Nayapul – the end of Annapruna circuit, there are two or three ATMs here.

Best time for trekking Annapurna circuit

Like for any other treks in Nepal the best months are March-April and October-November. As for our experience we never hiked in Nepal in autumn only in March-April, we heard that October is the busiest months with many people on all the trekking route which we don’t really like for this reason we in general try to skip the peak season. March is a great time for hiking but you might be unlucky (like us) and get a lot of snow and closed pass early in March. From May to September it’s monsoon season in Nepal not a good time for hiking. December to February are winter months which means lower temperatures and a lot of snow, some guesthouses might be closed during that time.

Cabins at Hotel Norbulinka, Upper Pisang.
Cabins at Hotel Norbulinka, Upper Pisang. Accommodation here was free but we had to eat at the restaurant

Guesthouses and facilities on the circuit

We were really surprised by the facilities of the guesthouses on the route; every place we stayed had electricity, hot shower and wi-fi (at no extra cost) these were sort of standard thing for a guesthouse to have. For some people who want to disconnect from the world on the trek it might be a disadvantage to have wi-fi everywhere, for us it was really great every day we could check that our site works fine, there are no technical problems etc. It was great that we could charge all our devices every day as we had a power bank but never really used it. All guesthouses have blankets you always can ask for an extra one or two if it’s really cold. We had light summer sleeping bags but most of the times slept without them under the blankets. Even at Thotong Phedi where it was quite cold we slept in our warm clothes under two blankets. 

The facilities at higher altitudes e.g. Thorong Phedi and High Camp are more basic no power outlets in the room, no or very poor wi-fi, no hot shower etc., to charge your phone or to use wi-fi here you pay extra. 

The main inconvenience we had in the most guesthouses (especially those located higher) is toilet, most places don’t have western type flush toilet, it is a hole toilet that you flush with a bucket of water. As for choosing a more expensive room with attached bathroom most of the times that attached bathroom doesn’t have hot water so to have a hot shower you have to use the outside bathroom. Having an attached toilet is quite handy especially at higher altitudes at night you don’t have to go every time outside.

All guesthouses are more or less the same there are no fancier hotels to stay on the route like in Pokhara or Kathmandu. Rooms are very basic usually they have two single beds, blankets, sometimes a table and a chair. Trekkers most of the time sit in dinning area because it’s usually nice, warm and social; people drink tea, play cards, talk etc. You go to your room only for sleeping.

Food on the trek

Guesthouses menu is quite diverse and usually includes Nepalese, Chinese, Indian and western dishes; spaghetti, pasta, noodles and rice with vegetable/chicken/cheese and tomato sauce; omelette, fried, boiled or scrambled eggs with potato/cheese/vegetable; Dal Bat (rice, roasted vegetable, chapati and lentil soup), momos (local dumplings), all sort of soups (chicken, vegetable, garlic, tomato, noodle etc.); pizzas and pancakes; different breads (chapati, Tibetan bread, toast); porridge and muesli (oats, cornflakes, muesli with honey, jam, apple or banana); many different teas (lemon, ginger, Masala, milk, mint etc.), instant coffee, desserts etc. Some bigger places like Manang, Chame, Jomsom even have Mexican dishes, burgers, wood fired pizza and real Espresso coffee. As you can see the choice is really big and you don’t have to eat the same food, every day you can try something different. If you’re vegetarian, vegan or just stick to a certain diet you’ll be able to find suitable food as well. My main problem was a lack of fresh things like fruit and vegetable especially when at higher altitudes. 

As I mentioned before the best value for money is local Dal Bat because it’s sort of bottomless, you can ask for extra rice, dal or vegetables again and again so if you’re on a tight budget it’s the best dish to order. We really liked local soups they’re always good to make a meal more filling you can order Tibetan bread of chapati with it. For breakfast we usually ate omelette or porridge.

Many villages and towns have small water purification stations where you can get safe drinking water it’s cheaper than buying 1l plastic bottles and much better for the ecology. We never used it because we had a LifeStraw bottle that we refilled from normal taps, streams and rivers. It was a great money-saver on the trek and we never had any stomach problem the filter worked perfect.

Guided tour vs independent trek

We prefer to hike independently when it’s possible for us it’s more interesting to find the way, arrange accommodation, carry our own backpacks etc. but I understand some people want to spend their holiday in a more relaxed way. If you decide to do a guided tour I’d suggest to book it through a reliable company like G-Adventures. They have the Annapurna circuit trek tour that includes all transportation, guide, porters and accommodation on the route, before and after. We didn’t do a tour with G-Adventures but we met a G-Adventures group and asked them about the tour. Tourists were very happy with their guide, itinerary, porters and services. The guide looked very professional, every night he gave briefing about the next day walk, challenges on the way etc. He arranged their bills, menu, made sure they have enough blankets, water etc. So we got the impression that the tour was good value for money and a great option for first-timers and solo trekkers. 

Independent hike

Pros

  • It’s cheaper than a tour
  • It’s more adventurous you do all the logistics and planning yourself
  • You’re more flexible you decide if want to walk further or stay somewhere longer etc.

Cons

  • It might be a bit difficult to plan and to walk on your own if it’s your first hike
  • You’ll have to sort out any issue or problem on the way on your own

Guided trek

Pros

  • It’s easy no need to worry about route planning, finding accommodation,  logistics, packing light because you have to carry your own backpack etc.
  • If you’re lucky to find a knowledgeable guide who speaks good English you can learn a lot about local culture, food, life style etc.

Cons

  • It’s more expensive
  • You have to stick to your group even if the itinerary doesn’t suit you well or you’d like to stay somewhere longer or walk further and faster.

A compromise option – hiring a porter or a guide

You can hire a guide or a porter (or both) yourself which will be cheaper than doing a tour and easier than walking on your own. We never hired a guide or a porter but we asked around in Pokhara to find out the price, to hire a guide you’ll pay about US$25 per day and for a porter US$20 per day, he can carry between 20-25 kg so you can split one porter between 2 or 3 people. You don’t have to pay extra for their food, water or accommodation, the price per day includes it, they sort it out themselves at guesthouses.

Pine forest and snow peaks on Annapurna circuit
Incredible scenery on the way to Upper Pisang, Annapurna circuit

Getting to and back

You can get to Besisahar (the starting point of the circuit) from Pokhara or Kathmandu. Buses from Pokhara leave from the Old bus terminal, it’s better to take a morning bus to arrive earlier in Besisahar. Bus price is NRP 265/US$2,5, it can take anything between 4 and 6 hours. Bus from Kathamandu to Besisahar will cost about NRP 500/US$5, the journey takes between 6-7 hours.

There are several points where you can finish the circuit, the main are Muktinath, Jomsom, Tatopani, Nayapul from all these places you can catch a bus back to Pokhara or even to Kathmandu though I wouldn’t recommend it, the trip can take 20 hours. Prices vary depending on the distance, from NRP300/US$3 from Nayapul to Pokhara to NRP 1450/US$13 from Muktinath to Pokhara. Jomsom is the only place on the way from where you can fly to Pokhara, the flight takes less than 1 hour compared to 10+ hours by bus, the price is about US$125.

If you decide where to stay before and after the circuit I’d suggest Pokhara, it’s much better than Kathmandu. Lakeside is a nice area with many hotels, restaurants, gear shops and tour agencies you can buy and book here whatever activity you want to do in Nepal. The area is beautiful by the lake, with not much traffic, quite clean. You can actually walk on the streets, enjoy the view while drinking coffee, rent a boat and raw around the lake etc. There are many activities to do in and around Pokhara so if you have some extra time in Nepal after completing Annapurna circuit we’d definitely recommend to stay here.

As for Kathmandu we didn’t like it at all; dirty, noisy, polluted with chaotic traffic the only better things here compared to Pokhara is that there are actually shops that sell real gear (not cheap fake stuff) so if you want to buy a proper pair of hiking shoes, sleeping bag, LifeStraw bottle etc. Kathmandu is better option. We saw three proper good shop next to Himalaya Java coffee shop (it’s probably the most famous coffee shop in Thamel).

Accommodation in Pokhara

Lakeside is the main touristy area of Pokhara it’s filled with hotels, guest houses, restaurants, bars etc. here you can find accommodation on any budget from cheap home stays to fancy spa hotels. We stayed for quite a while at OYO 11460 Hotel Romantica and stored our luggage there every time we went hiking. The hotel was nice; clean with good facilities, we really liked the staff the girls that work there are very nice and helpful. Another place we stayed was Hotel Lake Shore the rooms are smaller but a little bit fancier, the shower was very nice (the best shower we had in Nepal), the breakfast was very good with several options.

Budget optionsPokhara Youth HostelOYO 128 Hotel Dream PokharaGauri Shankar backpackers hostel |

Middle pricePokhara Boutique HotelPokhara Choice InnPokhara BatikaHotel Middle Path & Spa |

LuxuryTemple Tree Resort & SpaGlacier Hotel & SpaHotel White Pearl |

Accommodation in Kathmandu

Budget | Hotel Lapha (it is good enough for the money you pay)| Hotel The Doors | Classic Nepal Hotel | The Glasshouse Hotel |

Middle price | Dream Nepal Hotel and Apartment (a nice place more like an apartment, good breakfast)| Hotel Jampa | Aryatara Kathmandu Hotel | Karma Boutique Hotel |

Luxury | Taleju Boutique Hotel | Yatri Suites and Spa | Gokarna Forest Resort | Kathmandu Suite Home |

Packing list for Annapurna circuit

Annapurna circuit is a tea house trek you basically need only clothing, small sleeping bag (maybe), personal hygiene items, first aid kit and a couple of electronic devices, you can really pack light.

Backpack – 50L backpack will be enough but if you pack really light 40L backpack will be fine.

Smartphone – the route is marked quite well and there are many trekkers walking the circuit though if you’re planning to walk the complete circuit for some parts in the beginning and at the end of it having Maps.me navigation app on your phone is quite handy.

LifeStraw or any other water filter or purifying pills – it’ll save you quite a lot of money, between NRP 200-300/US$2-3 per day. 

Headlamp – all tea houses we stayed had lights in the room (except those in Thorong Phedi and High Camp) but you’ll need a torch or a headlamp when you go over Thorong La pass (most people start walking in the dark) as well as if you walk to Ghorepani you’ll need a headlamp for the sunrise walk to the top of the Poon Hill. 

Sleeping bag – all tea houses we stayed had blankets, it was really cold only between Manang and Muktinath, basically two nights, we used our summer sleeping bags with blankets otherwise we didn’t even unpack them and used only provided blankets. You can always ask for an extra blanket.

Resting on the way over Thorong La pass, Annapurna circuit
Alya resting on the way over Thorong La pass, Annapurna circuit

Hiking shoes – you don’t need heavy hiking boots for the circuit but a good pair of proper hiking shoes, I walked in my Salomon Ellips 2 (I’ve already walked more than 1500 km in these shoes) and Campbell wore his new Merrell Chameleon.

Hiking socks – we always wear merino wool socks for hiking, they work great; last long, don’t absorb odors, protect your feet from blister etc.

Hiking poles – there are many steep ascends and descends in total you go up and down more than 11000 m in two weeks so having the poles will be quite handy especially when you go over Thorong La pass.

Down jacket – we used ours quite a lot on the trek for wearing inside and outside, they are great; warm, light and pack small. We hiked in March and it was quite cold from 3000 m up.

Trekking pants – Campbell always hikes in normal trekking pants I prefer wearing yoga pants I usually pack one pair of them and one pair of hiking pants.

Hiking shirt – Colombia hiking shirts are Campbell’s favorite, I like hiking in long sleeve running shirts and sport braas.

Rain jacket – it might be not necessary to pack one if you pack a down jacket and a rain poncho. We used our a couple of times but would be fine without them.

Fleece – I used my fleece for both wearing inside tea houses and walking I always pack mine for hiking it’s one of my favorite items.

Beanie – we wore them quite a lot in the mornings when we got to higher altitude from 3000m+.

Buff – we wore them a lot as the sun protection instead of putting sunscreen all over our faces and necks.

Sleeping clothes e.g. long cotton pajama pants and a thermal shirt for sleeping and wearing in guesthouses after the shower – it’s comfortable and warm. Ladies options; pants and shirt.

Hiking towel – most of the guesthouses if not all of them have hot shower but you don’t get towels you’ll definitely need one.

Waterproof pouch for documents, money, phone etc.

Kindle – Campbell always takes his Kindle Paperwhite with on hikes. If you’re a owner of Kindle by joining Kindle unlimited program by Amazon you’ll get an access to thousands of e-books and audio books.

GoPro HERO7 we used it a lot for taking photos and videos we had our camera with as well but ended up almost never using it all the photos you see in our posts are taking with GoPro.

Garmin Fenix 5X thanks to this watch we could add elevation profiles, distances, maps etc. to our post so for us it was really worth buying it.

Annapurna trekking map (make sure to buy an updated version) or Poon Hill trek map, we had the first one and it was quite handy on the trek, we bought it in Pokhara, there are a couple of shops in Lakeside with many trekking maps and guide books.

First Aid kit – I’d suggest definitely to pack 

Recommended books and guidebooks

Lonely Planet Nepal (Travel Guide), 2018. Paper book & Kindle

Trekking Everest: Base Camp, Kala Patar and Other Trekking Routes in Nepal and Tibet. Cicerone, 2019. Paper book & Kindle

The Snow Leopard by Pieter Matthiessen. Paper book & Kindle

Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster by Jon Krakauer. Paper book & Kindle.

Little Princes: One Man’s Promise to Bring Home the Lost Children of Nepal by Conor Grennan. Paper book & Kindle

A Step Away from Paradise: The True Story of a Tibetan Lama’s Journey to a Land of Immortality by Thomas K. Shore. Paper book & Kindle

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2 Comments

  1. Sean Mullins

    Hi guys, I found your page searching for Camino options in Portugal.
    Love the content!
    Are you guys still in Nepal? I’m currently recovering in Pokhara after 6 weeks trekking in Lantang, Everest and Annapurna!
    If you have time or energy, the Kopra Ridge trek is a really nice quite alternative to ABC/Poon hill.
    Also, I do use maps.me, but I’ve found Locus Pro can be more useful (has detailed contour lines).
    Cheers,
    Sean.

    • Stingy Nomads

      Hi, Sean! Sorry for the late reply! Thank you for the comment! We’re currently in Spain walking our 5th Camino de Santiago the Via de la Plata, about 200 km done still about 800 km to go. Thank you for the advise on the Kopra trek we didn’t have enough time to complete more routes but are planning to come back to Nepal later this year so will definitely consider it. We did use Maps.me sometimes on the circuit though the route is marked quite well all the way. We’ll check Locus Pro out for the future hikes.
      Cheers and safe travels!

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