Salkantay trek is a high altitude 74km/46 miles hike in Cusco region, Peru. The route starts at Mollepata, a small town 100km from Cusco. It takes you through some incredible nature areas of the Andes with breathtaking scenery and amazing wild life. Trekking includes a visit to two Inca sites; Llactapata and Machu Picchu both history and nature lovers will enjoy Salkantay trek.  It is considered to be a less touristy alternative to the famous Inca trail though it goes through completely different area and unlike Inca trail Salkantay finishes in Aguas Calientes (from where you walk to MP) not at Machu Picchu itself. 

If you want to know more about different hikes in Peru check go to best hikes in Peru.

Salkantay trek facts

• Total distance – 74km/46 miles
• Required number of days – 5 days
• Starting point – Mollepata
• Finishing point – Aguas Calientes
• Average altitiude – 3000m
• Highest point – Apacheta or Salkantay Pass, 4580m
• Permits – no special permits are needed, the trek can be done independently or with a guide.

Information on other hikes around Cusco you can find on our Ausangate trek guide and Choquequirao trek guide. 

Best time for trekking Salkantay 

There are two seasons in Cusco region; the dry season and the rainy season. The dry season is from April to October, the driest months June to August – very little rain, lower temperatures, especially at night time. July – August are the peak tourist season expect prices to be higher and sights are busier. The rainy season is from November to March, with the most rain falling between December and February. During this period temperatures are higher, it’s very humid, rains a lot, not many tourists. December – February is the worst time for hiking in Cusco.

Practical information about the trek

• Salkantay trek, especially the first two days of it, is a high altitude hike, good acclimatization is essential.
• Drink enough water – hydration is very important for this hike.
• There are many streams and rivers on the way but we’d recommend to use water purification tablets or life-straw bottle due to many alpacas walking around local water is not safe for drinking.  
• On the first and second day of the trek you gain altitude quite fast don’t push yourself too hard if you feel tired; stop, rest, drink water.
• There are a couple of steep descends on the trek hiking poles will be quite handy they will take away some pressure from your knees.
• From the third day on there will be villages on the way where you can get cooked meals or buy some food e.g. pasta, tuna, instant soup, snacks, cool drinks etc.

How we rank Salkantay trekking

• Difficulty level – 4 out of 5; first two days are quite demanding; high altitude and steep ascends, other days are easier.
• Scenery – 5 out of 5; Humantay and Salkantay lake and glacier were the highlights.
• Touristy – 3 out of 5; quite busy compare to Choquequirao or Ausangate trek.

Salkantay trek packing list

If you decide to hike without a guide you’ll need camping gear; tent, mattress, camping stove, gas, pots etc. If Salkantay is the only trek you’re going to do rather rent camping gear than bring your own from home, if you’re planning to do a couple of hikes – having your own stuff is better.

Backpack with rain cover – even if you hike in dry season use a rain cover to protect you backpack and the stuff inside from dust and humidity. If you hike independently you’ll need a good and comfortable  60-70L backpack to be able to fit all the gear and attach a tent. If you do it with a company you’ll need only a day pack your stuff will be carried by horses or driven by car in big dry bags.

Tent – you camp 4 night on the trek it’s important to have a good reliable tent that won’t fail in case of rain, strong wind or snow. We became big fans of MSR tents, they’re not the cheapest but one of the best especially for hiking and long term traveling; light, strong, pack small, easy to pitch – perfectly designed for adventure in the mountains.

Sleeping bag – make sure your bag can go down to 0°C/30°F in summer and to -5°C/20°F in winter, it gets quite cold up in the mountains. Down bag vs synthetic bag – both have their advantages and disadvantages; for dry cold season a down sleeping bag will work great; it packs small, light and warm the main problem is if it gets wet but in dry season chances of rain are quite small. For wet season synthetic bag will be better; it dries quick, some modern bags are quite small and light as well.

Mattress – we have inflatable camping mats; light and small – fit in a backpack, soft, comfortable, good isolation. After we tried them once we decided not to use foam mattresses again.

Detailed packing list for hiking in Peru you’ll find in this post.

Download our complete Salkantay trek packing list.

Salkantay trek cost

Without a guide, per person

• Transport – 30 Sol/US$10 bus Cusco – Mollepata, bus Hidroelectrica – Cusco – 60 Sol/US$18; train Aguas Calientes – Hidroeléctrica (optional, you can walk) –  60 Sol/US$19 one way.
• Shopping (food, gas)  – 100 Sol/US$30.
• Entrance fee – 230 Sol/US$70, if you want to go up Machu Picchu or Huayna Picchu mountain – 280 Sol/US$86.
• Accommodation – 3 nights camping – between 10-30 Sol/US$3-10 (there are free campsites with limited facilities and private campsites/locals’ houses where you pay about 10 Sol/US$3 per tent). One night in a hotel in Aguas Calientes – from 26 Sol/US$8 pp in a hostel.
• Gear rental (optional) – depending on what you rent prepare to pay between 160 Sol/US$50 and 260 Sol/US$80.

Total; 476 Sol/US$146 (500 Sol/US$152 with Machu Picchu or Huayna Picchu mountain) + gear rental and train tickets.

With a company, per person

Tours start from US$400 per person and usually include; accommodation (camping and one night in a hotel in Aguas Calientes), transportation (except train tickets), entrance fee, food, water, tents and mattresses, porters, chef and a guide. Tours and prices vary from company to company some are more luxurious with better food, nicer accommodation, some are more basic where you pay extra for everything.

Guided tour or independent hike

Independent trek

Pros

• As you can see in the cost section it’s much cheaper, especially if you’re two or more people – you’ll save a lot of money.
• You’re free to choose when to stop and where to stay if you don’t like a place you always can go to a different one; if you feel tired you can stop earlier etc.
• It’s always an adventure to plan and prepare for a hike.

Cons

• It’s more challenging; you carry all you stuff, you pitch a tent, cook etc. basically do everything on your own.
• There is no pack up if you forget or lose something you’ll have to handle it all by yourself.
• If you’re alone it might be lonely to wander around the mountains.

Guided tour

Our advice when you book a tour make sure what is included and what is extra and double check that your Machu Picchu tickets are for the right day and time and include Machu Picchu or Huayna Picchu mountain if you’re planning to go up one of them. We met some disappointed travelers whose tickets, booked through an agency, were no right.

Pros

• It’s easy all you have to do is to find a good reliable company and they’ll arrange everything for you, no planning, last minute shopping, finding a bus etc.
• You don’t carry your stuff, you don’t cook or set a campsite – all you do is walking.
• It might be fun is you get a fun group of people and a nice guide.

Cons

• It’s much more expensive.
• It takes away some part of adventure.

Distances on Salkantay trek

• Cusco – Mollepata – 100km/62mi., bus
• Mollepata – Soraypampa – 22km/13,6mi., long ascend, +1000m
• Soraypampa – Chaullay – 21km/13mi., first long ascend to Apacheta pass, +750m; then long descend to the campsite, -1500m
• Chaullay – Lucmabamba – 18km/11mi., descend, – 800m
• Lucmabamba – Llactapata – 7km/4,3mi., steep ascend to the ruins, +900m
• Llactapata – Aguas Calientes – 13km/8mi., long descend, – 1000m.

Stops on the route

Mollepata (2900m)

A small town where you can get by bus, the beginning of Salkantay trek.

• Campsite – no
• Hotel – yes
• Shop – yes
• Cooked meal – yes
• Tap with running water – yes
• Toilet – yes
• Shower – yes

Soraypampa (3900m)

A first night stop, not a town just an established camping area.

• Campsite – yes, one free and two private sites for 10 So/US$3 per tent.
• Hotel – yes, before the campsites.
• Shop – yes, at the first campsite on the way.
• Cooked meal – yes, at the hotel
• Tap with running water – yes
• Toilet – yes, at paid campsites
• Shower – yes, at paid campsites.

Huayracmachay (3750m)

• Campsite – yes, one free, one for 10 Sol/US$3 per tent
• Hotel – no
• Shop – no
• Cooked meal – no
• Tap with running water – yes, at paid campsite
• Toilet – yes, at paid campsite
• Shower – yes, at paid campsite

Chaullay or Chayway (2900m)

• Campsite – yes, 10 Sol/US$3 per tent
• Hotel – yes
• Shop – yes
• Cooked meal – yes
• Tap with running water – yes
• Toilet – yes
• Shower – yes

Collpapampa or Colpapampa (2800m)

• Campsite – yes, 10 Sol/US$3 per tent
• Hotel – no
• Shop – yes
• Cooked meal – yes
• Tap with running water – yes
• Toilet – yes
• Shower – yes

La Playa (2000m)

• Campsite – yes, 10 Sol/US$3 per tent
• Hotel – no
• Shop – yes
• Cooked meal – yes
• Tap with running water – yes
• Toilet – yes
• Shower – yes

Lucmabamba (2100m)

A small village with coffee plantations and beautiful views.

• Campsite – yes, 5-10 Sol/US$3 per tent
• Hotel – yes
• Shop – yes
• Cooked meal – yes
• Tap with running water – yes
• Toilet – yes
• Shower – yes

Santa Teresa (1800m)

Quite q touristy place, many people come her to visit nearby hot springs.

• Campsite – yes, 10 Sol/US$3 per tent
• Hotel – yes
• Shop – yes
• Cooked meal – yes
• Tap with running water – yes
• Toilet – yes
• Shower – yes

Hidroeléctrica (2000m)

Nobody usually stays here, it’s only 2 hours walk to Aguas Calientes.

• Campsite – no
• Hotel – yes
• Shop – yes
• Cooked meal – yes
• Tap with running water – yes
• Toilet – yes
• Shower – yes

Accommodation in Cusco

There are many hostels in Cusco some have great facilities and excellent location if you’re on a backpacker budget and travel alone or with friends it’s the best and most budget option you can find. Some of our tops picks Blacky Hostel – nice vibe, great central location, wi-fi, breakfast, clean and very social, great place to meet people. The Andean Rooftop Guesthouse – a bit further away from the center, 900m, cozy and neat place, with great terrace/living area, wi-fi, included breakfast, budget private rooms are available.

If you rather pay a bit more and stay in a private room Yanuy Culinary Guest House might be a good option, located 500m from Central Market, rooms feature private bathroom, wi-fi, flat-screen TV, cable channels etc. Food lovers will enjoy in sight restaurant/bar; delicious local and European food, local chef can even give you some cooking classes. Buffet breakfast is included.  

If you want even more privacy why not to rent an apartment in the center? Apartamentos Quewe have all you need for a comfortable private stay in Cusco, they are especially great if you are a family or a group of friends traveling together. The apartments feature; double and single beds, fully-equipped kitchen, dining area, TV, wi-fi etc. Everything is new, comfortable and very clean.

Getting from Cusco to Salkantay (Mollepata)

The trek starts at Mollepata, a small town 100km from Cusco. 

1. First morning bus to Mollepata leaves at 4 am (there are several buses during the day) from Arcopata bus terminal, a small terminal at Arcopata street, the journey takes 3 hours. We’d recommend to go to the terminal the day before to make sure where it is and what time the bus leaves. Price 30 Sol/US$10.
2. Once in Mollepata you can start walking (as we did) or take a local truck that will get you to Sayapata from where you can start walking to Soraypampa, the first night campsite, about 2-3 hours walk. Price about 100 Sol/US$30 per car.

Salkantay trekking itinerary

Day 1. Bus Cusco – Mollepata, 100km. Mollepata – Soraypampa, 22km

Cusco (3400m) – bus to Mollepata (2900m) – Soraypampa (3900m), 22km/13,6 miles

If you want to walk all the way to Soraypampa we’d recommend to start the day early and take a morning bus from Cusco. The journey to Mollepata takes between 2,5-3 hours. From Mollepata many people take a taxi/truck to Soraypampa or a couple of kilometers before; it shortens a long the first day, you get to the campsite in a couple of hours instead of walking for 6-7 hours. We walked this part and unlike some people say the walk wasn’t unpleasant or along the road in fact the walking trek and the road split. It’s a bit difficult to find the trail in Mollepata, ask around or follow a group if there is one. The main reason we decided to walk is to give our bodies more time to acclimatize (it was our first hike in Cusco), the altitude difference between Mollepata and Soraypampa is 1000m if you get by car you gain it very fast, walking gives your more time to adjust.   

Highlights

• Humantay lake and glacier (4200m) – quite a steep uphill walk from Soraypampa campsite, +300m. It was one of the most beautiful lakes we’ve ever seen, the colors are just incredible!

Challenges

• Finding the trail in Mollepata
• Steep ascend from Mollepata to Soraypampa, +1000m
• Sleeping at high altitude, 3900m

A post shared by Stingy Nomads (@stingy_nomads) on Jul 4, 2018 at 11:06pm PDT

Day 2. Soraypampa – Chaullay, 21km

Soraypampa (2900m) – Apacheta/Salkantay Pass (4580m) – Huayracmachay (3750m) – Chaullay (2900m), 21km/13 miles.

This is the toughest day of the hike; high altitude, going up 1500m to Apacheta Pass (4580m) –  the highest point of Salkantay trek plus steep uphill to the campsite. On the way up don’t go too fast you’ll have enough time to make it to the campsite. Views from the Pass were stunning; Salkantay mountain and glacier if you walk towards the mountain you’ll see beautiful Salkantay lake down there. If you feel sick; nausea, headache etc. don’t spend much time at the top rather start going down slowly. You can stop for lunch at Huayracmachay. As an option you can camp there as well but it’s still quite high 3750m compare to Chaullay, 2900m it’s always better to sleep at lower altitudes.

Highlights

• Salkantay mountain and glacier
• Salkantay lake – a small turquoise blue color glacier lake

Challenges  

• Steep ascend from Soraypampa to Apacheta Pass, +1500m
• Steep descend from Apacheta Pass to Chaullay, – 1500m

Day 3. Chaullay – Lucmabamba, 18km

Chaullay (2900m) – Colpapampa (2870m) – Lucmabamba (2100m), 18km/11mi.

A relaxed walking day past coffee and fruit plantations we saw many hummingbirds and butterflies on the way.

Highlights

• Lush green forest with hummingbirds, colorful butterflies, orchids and fruit trees.
• Coffee plantations at Lucmabamba.
• Hot Springs – about 30min. drive from the village, you can catch a minibus, it is quite touristy but we enjoyed soaking in the hot pools after several days of walking without hot shower.

Day 4. Lucmabamba – Aguas Calientes, 20km

Lucmabamba (2100m) – Puncuyoc Pass (2900m) – Llactapata ruins (3000m) – Hydroelectric station (2000m) – Aguas Calientes (2040m), 20km/12,4mi.

Here you have to options to go to Llactapata ruins first and then to Hidroelectrica or to go straight to Hidroelectrica past Santa Teresa. The first option is longer and involves a steep 900m ascend to the ruins with subsequent 1000m descend to Hidroelectrica. The ruins are quite interesting and not overcrowded but if you feel tired of walking rather skip it and save energy for Machu Picchu.

Highlights

• Llactapata ruins – recently discovered Inca ruins with a great view on Machu Picchu.

Challenges

• Long ascend from Lucmabamba to Puncuyoc Pass, 900m up.
• Long descend from Llactapata ruins to Hydroelectric station, 1000m down.
• Walking along the railway from Hydroelectric to Aguas Calientes (about 10km), taking a train might be a better option.

Day 5. Aguas Calientes – Machu Picchu – Aguas Calientes, 15km

Very early wake up, 4.30-5am you should leave your hostel to start up to Machu Picchu. You have two options; to take a bus all the way up or to walk. The walk from the town to the ruins takes about 1,5 hours, with steep 400m ascend. If you decide to walk, like us, take enough water with. Don’t forget your torch, passport and tickets. Entrance to MP opens at 6.00 if you are fast enough you’ll be there right in time. 

Taking a bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu is another option, you can buy a ticket in the town. Ticket office is opened from 5am to 9pm, one way ticket – US$12 (adults), return US$24. The journey to the top takes 40 minutes. Buses leave every 10 minutes; to MP from 5.30am till 3.30pm.; from MP from 6.00am till 6.00pm. You can walk up and take a bus down (there is a ticket office at the ruins) or other way around.

Machu Picchu need to know before you go

• Don’t forget to buy ticket to Machu Picchu beforehand you can’t buy it at the entrance. Only 2500 people in the morning, from 6am to 12pm and 3000 people in the afternoon, from 12am to 5.30pm, a day are allowed at the ruins. In high season make sure to book it at least a couple of days in advance.
• Take your tickets and passport/ID with you have to show both at the entrance.
• Huayna Picchu mountain visitors restrictions; entrance from 7am to 8am – 200 people; from 10am to 11am – 200 people.
• Machu Picchu mountain; entrance from 7am to 8am – 400 people; from 9am to 10am – 400 people. It’s important to buy you Machu Picchu + Huayna Picchu/Machu Picchu mountain beforehand, especially in high season.
• Make sure to enter the ruins and mountains at the time indicated in your tickets if you miss it you won’t be allowed to enter any other time.
• New Machu Picchu rules were implemented in 2017 according to them all visitors supposed to have a guide to enter the ruins in fact nobody at the entrance enforces this rule there are people with and without guides. If you want to join a group you can do it; price US$20 per person or US$60 for a private guide per group.
• Visitors are not supposed to bring food and water with which is quite strange as there are very few place where you can buy both. We’ve been to the ruins twice both times carrying day packs with water, sandwiches, snacks and nobody has ever searched our bags or tried to stop us. This rule is mainly to protect the ruins from pollution as some people just damp plastic bottles and wraps. A reusable water bottle will be a better option and nobody will object to it.
• Walking sticks are not allowed at the ruins we did hear about people being stopped and asked to leave them at the entrance so if your sticks are any value for you rather don’t take them. If your knees are a problem – take a bus down to Aguas Calientes.

Machu Picchu accommodation

For a budget stay Hostel Machu Picchu Land B&B is a good option; dormitories and private rooms, wi-fi, breakfast, good location, very helpful staff, some rooms have AC and cable TV, clean and nice place.

For middle price range check Inkas Dream Machu Picchu – a cozy place with a nice patio, outside spa bath and swimming pool. All rooms feature; private bathroom, flat-screen TV, satellite channels, free toiletries, wi-fi, buffet breakfast included.

If you want to treat yourself after a tough hike Sumaq Machu Picchu hotel is an amazing place. It features all you can expect from a luxury boutique hotel; spacious rooms, big comfortable beds, beautiful views, exquisite service, delicious breakfast and dinner are included in the price. A great place to relax before and after visiting Machu Picchu.  

Getting back from Aguas Calientes to Cusco 

There are four options;

1. to catch a train all the way from Aguas Caleintes to Cusco – the easiest and the most expensive option; train ticket 277 Sol/US$85 price of the cheapest train ride Expedition 34. You have to buy tickets for this train a couple of weeks beforehand they are often sold out.
2. to go by train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo and from there take a bus to Cusco – it’s a bit cheaper than the first option but more complicated; train ticket – from 180 Sol/US$55 (the cheapest train leaves Aguas Calientes at 5.35am), bus ticket 15 Sol/US$4. A good thing about this option if you have time you can stay in Ollantaytambo and visit the ruins.
3. to catch a train from Aguas Calientes to Hidroeléctrica and from there take a mini bus to Cusco – more complicated but cheaper; train ticket – 60 Sol/US$19, mini bus ticket – 60 Sol/US$18.
4. to walk from Aguas Calientes to Hidroeléctrica, about 10km and from there take a bus to Cusco – the cheapest but the longest option; bus ticket 60 Sol/US$18.

Books and guidebooks

For a self-guided walk one of Machu Picchu guide books will be quite helpful, e.g. The Machu Picchu Guidebook: A Self-Guided Tour by Alfredo Valencia Zigarra (paper book) or Lonely Planet Peru (paper and Kindle).

If you want to travel back in history and find out more about the discovery of Machu Picchu, you’ll enjoy reading Lost City of the Incas by Hiram Bingham. Kindle and paper book.

Nice and fun reading Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time by Mark Adams trying to answer a common question; What is Machu Picchu? Kindle and paper book.

If you’d like to read some local authors Death in the Andes by the most famous Peruvian writer Mario Vargas Llosa is a great choice. The novel tells some mystic events happening in the Andes, not far from Cusco when Machu Picchu was still quite of the beaten track place to come. Kindle and paper book.

Related posts

• Ausangate trek and Rainbow Mountain
• Choquequirao trek to Machu Picchu
• Best hikes in Peru
• Packing list for hiking in Peru

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