How to climb Mt. Elbrus - a detailed climbing guide
Mt.Elbrus is the highest summit in Europe that makes it a very popular climbing destination for both experienced and amateur climbers. Its relative easiness is another reason why so many people attempt to climb Elbrus, in good weather conditions and with the right gear any normal person can do it, the technical part of the climb is not difficult. Though don't think it's just a simple walk up the mountain, in fact, every year a couple of people die climbing Elbrus, the main reasons; bad weather, poor visibility, lack of acclimatization.
We don't encourage inexperienced people to climb Elbrus without a guide but if you've done some high altitude hikes/climbs before, do proper acclimatization and use the right gear it's absolutely doable. We hope our Climbing Mount Elbrus guide will help you to make the right decision and to prepare for conquering this amazing mountain.
If you'd like to explore more of Russia and visit some off-the-beaten-track places that are difficult to get on your own you can join one of the small group tours with G-Adventures and Intrepid Travel, two reputable companies that offer several unique tours around Russia. Here are some options;
Due to the northern location of Mt. Elbrus at the high altitude, the amount of oxygen in the air is even less than at the same altitudes more south. We can confirm it 100% it was more difficult to breathe than for example hiking in the Andes, trekking to Everest Base Camp, or climbing Mount Kilimanjaro.
It has two peaks; the east summit (5621m) and the west summit (5642m), the main climbing route (the south route) goes to the west summit.
Stingy Nomads participates in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. If you click on the link and purchase the item or make a booking, we will receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost. Thank You for supporting us and assisting us to produce quality, free content.
Best months to climb Mt. Elbrus
- July and the first half of August is the best season for climbing with the sunniest days and the warmest temperatures.
- In June you still get colder days and a lot of snow even at lower altitudes (3500-3800m).
- The second half of August (when we did the climb) can be quite unpredictable; strong wind, snowfalls, rain etc.
Different climbing routes
There are four routes, two main; South and North. The South route (from Azau village) is the easiest and the most popular, it's where all the cable cars and barrels are. If you have no experience and want to go without a guide it's the best option. You'll need 3-5 days to climb. We did this route and still, it was challenging enough and worked out cheaper for us (the fastest route) since we rented some gear.
The North route is the historical one the first climber to Elbrus went this way. There are no roads and cable cars it means you'll have to walk all the way from 2550m (base camp) carrying all your stuff. The good thing about this route there are few people. We'd recommend taking this route if you go with an experienced guide or you're an experienced climber or if you've done Elbrus before. You'll need 6-8 days.
The other two; from the west and east side both are quite wild with very few people, with no infrastructure. The West route starts from Polyana Dzhily-Su (2670m). The East route starts from Elbrus village. For climbing these routes you have to be quite experienced and in good shape.
Preparing for the climb
Stay for a couple of days in Terskol and do one or two acclimatization hikes; Mt.Cheget (3800m), you can walk up or take a cable car; Observatory/peak Terskol (3150m), only walking, the path starts in Terskol. Remember! don't push yourself too hard rather rest and sleep more.
Register at the Rescue center in Terscol (MCHS), you can do it in person or over the phone (+7-928-694-51-19; +7(866-38)-7-14-89). They'll need your name, surname, and passport number (only one person, the group leader), contact phone number, and return date. After the climb, you have to sign out in person or by phone. Nobody ever checked our registration on the mountain but they did phone us to check if we came down on the last day.
Travel insurance for climbing Elbrus
Any outdoor activity that involves high altitude is risky climbing the world's highest peaks is probably one of the most dangerous adventure activities you can do. There are several risks that you can encounter during climbing Elbrus, the main are; altitude sickness, frostbites, injuries if you fall or slip during ascend or descend, gear loss, break down, or damage.
World Nomads travel insurance has been designed by travelers for travelers, with coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
The cost of the climb
Unlike many of the famous mountains, there is no fee to climb Elbrus.
The South Route ascent
- Transport - cable car+ski lift — RUB900/US$15 both ways including backpacks.
- Accommodation (barrels) — RUB700-800/US$12-14 per day. Free if camping.
- Snowcat to Pastukhov rocks (optional) — RUB5000/US$87 pp. one way.
- Drinking water — RUB200/US$3 for 5l.
- Food in coffee shops (pies, fried eggs, snacks, tea) - from RUB300/US$5 per day. For more variety bring your own food.
Where to stay on Elbrus?
Mir Station, 3500 m
There are barrels (bochki) as well as a coffee shop and some souvenir shops here. Not really an option unless you have a serious attitude problem and can't go higher. Almost no climbers stay here, it gets very busy with day visitors. To start a climb you'll have to go to Garabashi station anyway.
Garabashi Station, 3800 m
There are several barrel huts and containers here. The first group, the bottom level (the nearest to the chairlift), and the first coffee shop. We'd recommend walking further up first because you'll make your summit day a bit shorter and second because there are many day visitors here, it's quite muddy and too busy.
The second group of barrels is 30-50m up we'd suggest walking to the very last one, closest to the new cable car station. Here there are two coffee shops (the wooden one works 24 hours) where you can charge your phone, buy drinking water and some food.
Shelter Maria, 4100 m
Big containers with two bedrooms each, a kitchen with a gas stove, a big table and benches, electricity (after 7pm), an outside toilet. This is the best option if you're planning to walk all the way to the summit (not taking a snowcat) you'll make your summit day easier and shorter. No coffee shops, no drinking water here, for cooking you can melt snow or use water from the streams it will be fine for drinking as well when boiled.
Accommodation options on Elbrus
Barrel or huts
Old containers or panel huts turned into houses, the new ones are quite cozy inside, from RUB700/US$12 pp.
- beds (4-8 people), some have mattresses and pillows, some don't, depends on the price.
- electricity (after 7pm)
- outlets
- running water (in some of them)
- kitchen with gas stove and a few pots, we'd recommend bringing your own pots.
- outside toilets
- gas heaters
Camping (your own tent)
You can pitch it anywhere you like, just try to find a wind-protected spot as it can get quite windy sometimes. Free of charge.
- outside toilets
- you can charge your phone in the coffee shop next to the new cable car station.
- for water (cooking) you can ask in one of the barrels or coffee shops. Snow and water in small creaks are not good for using there are too many snowcats and snowmobiles around.
How to get to the starting point of the climb?
From Terskol take a shared taxi (Kupol hotel) to Azau, RUB200/US$3,5 for a car up to 4 people, it takes 5min.
From Azau village take an old cable car (red color) to Mir (World) station, RUB500/US$8 both ways. There is a new cable car (white color), it's double the price and doesn't go to Mir station. First, you arrive at Stary Krugozor station (3000m) where you just change a car and continue to Mir.
Important! Keep your ticket for the way down. The cable car runs daily from 9am to 4pm (4.30 down). Tip! If you're planning to stay in a barrel, try to be at the cable car earlier (8.30-8.45) this way you'll get to the top among the first and will have more options to choose from.
From Mir station take a chairlift to Garabashi (3800m), RUB100/US$1,5 pp one way, plus RUB100/US$1,5 for a backpack (if it's heavier than 10kg), you are not allowed to take a big bag with you there is just no space for it. Some people (must say very few) walk from Mir to Garabashi, it's not far 300m up but can make you quite tired especially carrying big backpacks.
From Garabashi station you can take a snowmobile to Maria shelter (4100m) for RUB500/US$8 pp., if you don't mind going that high in such a short time.
It's possible to walk all the way from Azau village to Garabashi station, the road goes under the cable car, depending on your fitness level and backpack heaviness it can take between 3-6 hours. Very few people do it but it's the most budget option, costs you nothing.
Climbing Mt. Elbrus, the South Route, a 4-day itinerary
Garabashi station (3800m) – Maria shelter (4100m) – Pastukhov rocks (bottom 4550m, top 4700m) – the saddle between the east and west summits (5400m) – west summit (5642m).
As I mentioned Elbrus climb is not very technical, we had only crampons and ice axes and it was ok but we'd suggest bringing a harness and carbines, in some places (very steep slopes) there are ropes you can clip yourself in to prevent falling down. You can also clip your harness into a group's line when crossing the saddle.
Day 1. Azau - Garabashi (cable car + ski lift)
In the morning (9am) we took a cable car+ski lift from Azau (2300m) to Garabashi station (3800m). Once there find accommodation/pitch a tent, rest, sleep, read the rest of the day. Can chill and drink tea in the coffee shop, it's nice and warm inside, electricity, music etc.
Day 2. Acclimatization walk to Pastukhov Rocks
In the morning (if the weather is good) we did an acclimatization walk to Pastukhov rocks and back. Important! Remember to walk slow, rest, and drink enough water. If you feel good as an option you can move from Garabashi to Priyut 11 this day.
Day 3. Garabashi to Shelter Maria
At about 9am we moved with all our stuff from Garabashi to shelter Maria, it took us about 1h20min. Here we stayed in one of the shelters for RUB700/US$12 pp. The rest of the day spent resting, sleeping and drinking tea.
Day 4. Shelter Maria - climb to the peak - down to Azau
We started the climb at 12.30am from Shelter Maria, it took us about 10 hours to get to the top (west summit). The night was very windy we didn't have big expectations and thought we'd go back in 2 or 3 hours. Our worries about not knowing where to go were absolutely unreasonable, there were dozens of people walking up! It was very easy to follow them, we all basically walked in a line like one big group. From Pastukhov rocks (4700m) to the saddle the up is very steep it's easier if you walk zig-zag, you'll see most people do it.
Once we reached the saddle we all had to stop and there was thick mist we couldn't see anything. After some time (15min.) it cleared up a bit and guided groups put on their harnesses and started slowly moving forward following their guides. We had no ropes so we started following them. The path is quite narrow but if you walk carefully I don't see any reason why you should fall down.
We were at 5000m going higher up, it was difficult to breathe and we had to stop and rest a couple of times. Tip! Find a guided group and follow it all the way for your own sake.
The last up (200m) was the most difficult I wasn't sure I'd make it! We moved very slow, from pole to pole, stopped every 100m to rest, this up was exhausting. Finally after struggling for about an hour or so we reached the summit. It was an amazing, unreal view; mountains, valleys and you above all of them! Important! The summit itself is 20min. walk (slight up) after you finish the last long climb.
The way down was much quicker and easier, we got back to the shelter in 2h30min. We had enough time to grab our backpacks and get to the ski-lift before 3.30pm (closing time) and the cable car (4.30pm closing time). We got back to our hotel in Terskol at 5pm and had enough time to return our rental gear back to the shop, most shops close at 7pm. We kept our gear one day longer so had to pay for one extra day.
If you enjoy steep ascents and would like to challenge yourself or practice for one of the high-altitude climbs try climbing Mount Kinabalu in Malaysia. It's a tough 2-day hike up and down the mountain.
Acclimatization tips for climbing Mount Elbrus
- The best you can do for acclimatization is to have time, the more the better.
- Drink enough water, usually 1-1,5l more than you usually drink.
- Rest more, exercise less, especially the first day or two.
- Climb higher, sleep lower (if it's possible).
- Diamox as a prophylactic, we didn't have it on Elbrus but we had a pack when went trekking in Nepal though never had to use it.
Don't push yourself if you feel tired or have a headache rather skip any walks and sleep instead.
Here are some interesting facts, tips, and myths about altitude sickness from the Institute for Altitude Medicine.
Using snowcats and snowmobiles
Some climbers (mostly foreign groups) take snowcats from Garabashi (3800m) to Pastukhov rocks (4700m) to make the summit walk faster and easier. They charge RUB5000/US$87 pp for the ride, max 6 people.
As an option you can take a snowmobile, it might be cheaper, from RUB3000/US$52 but it takes only one person. Both you have to arrange at least one day prior to your climb. We decided to walk all the way first because it's some sort of cheating (you already got halfway with the cable cars) and second because it's expensive. Anyway, this decision is up to you.
What to pack for the climb?
If you're not a professional climber we'd suggest bringing the basic hiking gear and rent special climbing gear in Terskol at least we did it that way and it worked perfectly.
Gear you can rent (if you don't have your own)
- Crampons, definitely must
Ice axe - Harness, rope, carabiners
- Plastic boots, few people walk in their hiking boots but we'd recommend renting proper double layer plastic boots
- Thick down jacket
- Snow pants
Gear that is recommended to have
- Backpack, 60L for men, 50L for women
- Walking poles
- Sleeping bag (for sleeping in a barrel/hut for +5-0C, for camping in summer for -8C)
- Camping mat (even if you stay in a barrel/hut, there are wooden beds with very thin mats on)
- Good water and windproof tent (if camping)
- Camping towel
- Portable gas stove (if camping)
- Pots, cups, plates/bowls, utensils (huts don't have enough of these)
- Pocket knife
- Headlamp, make sure your batteries will last for 3-4 hours you'll need it since you start walking at 1am-2am.
- Water bottle or LifeSrtaw bottle, hydration pack won't work water in the tube freezes quite quick.
- Padlock (if camping to lock your tent when you're not there)
- Ziploc bag or waterproof pouch for passport, money, phone to keep it dry
If you're on a long-term trip and don't want to carry heavy camping stuff (tent, warm sleeping bag, etc.) with you can rent it in Terskol as well. The gear for climbing Elbrus is very similar to that people pack for climbing Kilimanjaro.
Clothes
- Fleece shirt
- Thermal pants and shirt
- Thick waterproof mittens/ski gloves
Thin gloves - Thick socks, we'd recommend merino wool socks for both blister protection and keeping your feet warm.
- Thin socks for sleeping
- Beanie
- Balaklava/ski mask, for both cold and sun protection
- Sunglasses, lens category 4 - a must-have item you really can get snow blindness if you don't wear one especially on the ascent day.
- Raincoat, we didn't have any but for heavy rain, it can be quite handy
First aid kit
- Sunscreen with high protection, SPF50+
- Lipstick with SPF protection
- Medical plasters. We'd suggest putting them on your heels and toes before the climb to prevent blisters, plastic boots are quite tough
- Aspirin
- Diamox
- Iodine
- Toilet paper, hand sanitizer etc. all the normal hygiene stuff you usually take for hiking
Gear rental places in Terskol
There are three rental shops in Terskol; Rock'n'Rent, a fancy rental shop 7 Vershin and Kultur Multur. We rented everything in the last one, the reason they are cheaper and have a big variety of gear, different sizes, and good quality. The guys from the shop do gear repairing as well, they fixed our camping mattress.
Rock'n'Rent has more or less the same prices but not as much gear, in high season you have a good chance of not finding your size. As a deposit, you can leave your passport, ID, or driver's license. Tip! Don't take your passport on the climb rather carry a copy of it. You don't need it but there is a chance it can get wet/dirty, etc. Rather ask to lock it in a safe in your hotel or leave it in a rental shop as a deposit (as we did).
Gear rental prices in Kultur Multur (per day, per item);
- Down jacket — RUB400/US$7
- Plastic boots - RUB400/US$7
- Snow pants - RUB400/US$7
- Crampons — RUB150/US$2,5
- Ice axe – RUB150/US$2,5
- Small stuff (beany, gloves, balaclava etc.) from RUB100/US$1,7
- Sleeping bag RB400/US$7
How to get to Elbrus?
Getting to Nalchik
Flights
There is an international airport in Nalchik, most foreigners come this way. Flights from Moscow from RUB3000/US$52 one way. There are flights from many Russian cities but they are more expensive. You can catch a direct flight from Istanbul (Turkey) as well from RUB3200/US$55 one way. From the airport, you can get by taxi to the bus station.
Train
There are trains from St.Petersburg and Moscow (from RUB2400/US$ one way if buy in advance) as well as from many other cities. The journey from the capitals takes between 1,5-2 days.
Bus
There are buses from several Russian cities; Sochi (RUB1500/US$26 pp.), Mineralnye Vody (RUB150/US$2,5 pp), even from Moscow and St.Petersburg (long and tiring journey).
Getting from Nalchik to Terskol/Azau
The easiest way is to get here by minibus from Nalchik, there are direct buses from Nalchik bus station, the last bus leaves at 1pm. Price RUB220-300/US$5 per person incl. luggage. Some taxis will drive you for RUB500/US$9 pp if you're four in the car. The journey takes about 1h20min. The same bus goes to Cheget and Azau.
Where to stay before the climb?
There are three villages nearby Elbrus; Azau, Terskol, and Cheget. Azau is the closest to Elbrus, the cable car goes from here. Terskol, the biggest one, we stayed here, its location is very convenient, 5min. drive to Azau, 15-20min. walk to Cheget, shops, hotels, a couple of campsites, rental shops, etc. Cheget, the furthermost from Elbrus but the closest to Cheget mountain, where most people go for an acclimatization hike.
Places to stay near Elbrus
- Budget | Dinamo | Hotel Tri Brata | Hotel Elbrusiya |
- Middle price | Terskol Sedmoy Region | Hostel Black Point | Hotel Povorot |
Set up your budget
Backpacking; accommodation (camping) - from RUB200/US$3,5 per tent, food - from RUB150/US2,5 per meal (cooking will be cheaper, all campsites have gas stoves), transport (minibusses between villages) - from RUB25/US$0,5 pp.
Middle price range; accommodation - from RUB1400/US$24 for a double, food - from RUB200/US3,5 per meal, transport (taxi) - from RUB50/US$1 pp per ride.
High-end; accommodation - from RUB2500/US$43 for a double, food - from RUB400/US$7 per meal, transport (taxi) - from RUB50/US$1 pp per ride.
Need to know about Terskol
- You'll have to get a registration paper, your hotel will arrange it for you, it just a piece of paper with a stamp from the post office, costs RUB250/US$4 pp. It's a general rule for Russia, all foreigners have to get it at every place (town, city) they go to. Usually, hotels/hostels do it for you no need to worry.
- There is one ATM (Sberbank) in the town, sometimes it has no money, rather bring enough cash with you.
- Most places (restaurants, rental shops) accept only cash.
- You can exchange USD or Euro at some hotels e.g. Elbrusia.
- The village is quiet and safe, locals are friendly and helpful.
- There are 3-4 grocery shops where you can buy basic things; food, batteries, toiletries etc.
- Tap water is potable.
- Not many locals speak English.
- Minibusses and taxis wait between hotels Elbrusia and Kupol.
More things to do in Terskol
Mount Chaget, you can walk or take a ski lift to 3000m, it's a part of acclimatization before climbing Elbrus.
Visit mineral spring Narzan, 25min. walk from Terskol, here you can drink some water/refill your bottles for free and eat shashlik (grilled meat) in one of the local places.
Do a hike to Observatory/Terskol peak (3150m) from Terskol to enjoy a stunning view from the top.
Go to Elbrus village (taxi or bus) and walk along the Irikchat ravine. The original climb to Elbrus started here before new towns and cable cars were built. You still can do a climb from this side but it requires experience and a good fitness level there are no shops, you'll have to camp all the way and to carry all the food and gear.
Areas with restricted access for foreigners
You are not allowed to be within a 5km border zone (border with Georgia) without a special permit that you can get at a local border service. It has nothing to do with a climb to Mt. Elbrus from any side. You won't be able to go all the way to the top of Cheget mountain (higher than 3000m), visit ravines Adylsu and Adyrsu. But there are plenty of other places around where you can go without any permits.
Local food to try
- Shashlyk (BBQ meat) cooked on the fire beef or lamb meat. It's a nice treat after the climb.
- Shurpa (shorpa), thick soup with meat (lamb, beef) and vegetables, very good with local bread.
- Khychin, a traditional fried pancake-pie with filling; potato and cheese, meat.
- Local teas with berries and herbs. One of the best places for teas and khychins is on Cheget mountain (next to the first chairlift station, 2735m).
Recommended books and guidebooks
- Five Big Mountains: A Regular Guy’s Guide to Climbing Orizaba, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, and Vinson by David Schaeffer. Kindle and paperback.
- Higher Love: Skiing the Seven Summits by Kit DesLauriers. Kindle and paperback.
- The Mountain: My Time on Everest by Ed Viesturs. Kindle and paperback.
- The Mountain Guide Manual: The Comprehensive Reference--From Belaying to Rope Systems and Self-Rescue by Mark Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo. Kindle and paperback.
- Lonely Planet Russia (Travel guide). Kindle and paperback.
- Lonely Planet Russian Phrasebook & Dictionary. Kindle and paperback.
LIKE THIS POST? PIN IT!
The pretty half of Stingy Nomads, responsible for all our land adventures (hiking, climbing, walking the Camino) and following them write-ups. Alya loves walking since she was a child, she prefers to walk 1000 km with a backpack rather than to do a 10 000 km road trip (actually any road trip). Alya is a big fan of Latin America, the Spanish language, and dancing. Every time we go away she desperately misses our dog Chile.
Hi, Thanks for all the great and useful info! How exactly do we book the stays on the mountain? Do we have to reserve them before hand or do we do it on the mounatin?
Hello! We didn't book anything in advance. Most independent climbers find accommodation once they're on the mountain. Groups usually book beforehand to make sure all their members stay at the same place. The best you can do to secure a spot in one of the huts or barrels is to get up as early as possible right after the ski lift starts operating. Make sure to arrive 30 minutes before it opens to be one of the first in the line.
Cheers
Nice post
Very interesting and highly valuable post! Do you know more about permits in the park? Is it obligatory in the valleys (e.g. Irik or Yusengi)? Do I have to have it, if my plan is only to visit Garabashi Hut near South Route?
Great job, Stingynomads! That's one of the best NR-related post in the Internet.
Do you know, how to book one of shelters near south route? That's a bit tricky - I cannot find almost any contact details (neither phone number, nor email, nor website) to administrators of the Barrel, Diesel Hut, Prijut Maria, Krugozor or Prijut Walery (not sure about this name) shelters. In fact, I found only the 3912 EcoHotel website.
Also, do you know, where is it possible to obtain "National Park Permit" and if there is any formal document, which summarizes where it's obligatory? I've heard there is a certain altitude (such as 3600 a.m.s.l) above that it's mandatory. Before reaching it - you can walk without the permit.
Hi! Thanks for the comment! We didn't book anything in advance. There are a couple of websites in Russian that offer online booking but they're all very new and I'm not sure how reliable they're. We climbed in August it's not the peak season anymore and we didn't have any problem finding accommodation on the top, we just walked into the first place at Shelter Maria and it was pretty empty. I'd suggest making a reservation just a day or two before the climb when you're in Terskol or Cheget. If you ask around at one of the gear rental shops (Kultur Multur or Rock'n'Rent gear shop) I'm sure they'll be able to assist. I could find this phone number +7 928 692-28-90 for Shelter Maria I'm not sure if it works now or not.
The permit is basically the entrance fee to the National Park you don't have to arrange it beforehand, it's valid for the entire period of the climb. When we went up nobody asked to show our permits I'm not even sure we had them. The price of the permit is RUB250/US$4. It is valid for the entire park not only for Elbrus. Before you start the climb you should register at the rescue service in Terskol and check-out when you're back.
Cheers!
Hi again, Stingy Nomads! You mentioned there are a few Russian websites. Could you please share some links? I will try to revise them. I believe such information could be useful to other readers as well. And I have some issues in finding such websites without cirilica installed : ) Thanks in advance!
I don't want to mention these websites because I've read negative reviews on Russian forums about them. We don't want to mislead our readers and recommend fake booking sites that tend to charge people without providing promised services. I'm not sure why you are so concerned about accommodation on Elbrus. If you arrive in Terskol a couple of days before the climb you'll be able to book a place up there. Many of our readers climbed Elbrus and nobody has ever complained about not being able to find accommodation on the mountain. Some foreign forums and companies make it sound very difficult to arrange anything on your own but it's not they just want people to use their services. I'd rather book a place a couple of days before the climb after checking weather conditions to make sure you won't get stuck up there for several days waiting for the right weather.
Cheers!
This is what I was looking for, fully loaded with every single info,
I am not sure that I will do this by next year but whenever that time will come, I would prefer to walk all the way, as you have mentioned ' a road goes under the cable car from Azau village.
Thank you for this great blog and your tips specially.
Hell, Maneesh! Thank you for the comment! We're glad you've found our post helpful! Good luck with the climb! I hope you can do it soon!
Cheers!
Hi. Someone told me that I will not be allowed to Climb Solo. I m from India and i have done Mountaineering Course as well. I have lot experience of high Altitude trekking and have good Knowledge about Snow Craft and Climbing techniques.
Hello, Chandan! As far as I know, it doesn't matter what country you're from if you want to climb alone you can do it. My husband is South African and he didn't have any problem doing the climb on his own without a guide or group.
Cheers!
hello brother, if you are planning it next year, I would also love to join you! Maybe from Delhi.
As of 2019, no guide was necessary for anything. Being that solo, a foreigner, or anything.
Actually, there is nobody to control this as well.
Great effort!
Thanks for such a nice and comprehensive information. We are two friends and been to 5000m many times but now we are not fit enough and walk in low pace and dont want to join the groups operated by regular tour operators. Do you have an idea what does a private guide cost to us from Garabashi?
How much time it takes from Maria Shelter to Pastukhov Rocks?
Is there any possibility to get snowcats or snowmobiles from Maria Shelter as I am thinking to walk up to Shelter Maria and stay overnight for more acclimatization and then next day snowcat to Pastukhov to save some time and energy for summit 🙂
Hello, Khalid! Thank you for the comment! Sorry, for the late reply! We're currently trekking in Nepal and often don't have Internet. I don't think you'll be able to find a guide at Garabashi, you'll have to arrange it in Terskol. The best option is to go to one of the gear rental shops (they are mentioned in the post) and arrange a guide there. We talked to some of them at Kultur Mutlur gear shop, they can speak English and have been to the top many times.
It took us about 2 hours to walk from Maria to Pastukhov Rocks but it was at night, a lot of snow, strong wind and very cold. Yes, it's possible to get a snowcat from Shelter Maria. We saw people taking it from there. The snowcats are parked at Garabashi, on the way up you can arrange a pick-up time with them or ask at a shelter you'll be staying I'm sure they will be able to arrange it for you.
Cheers!
Great blog post! I'm seriously considering this in 2020 if my Mexico Volcanoes trip goes well!
Do you know how an American gets a visa for Russia for a DIY trip like this> I heard you have to have some lodging or place or person vouch for you before you submit your passport for a Russian visa. If I don't know exactly when I am going or where I am staying until right before the trip, I'm not sure how to do that. I would likely try to tag this on to the end of a summer business trip to Scotland. I'm not sure how best to get to Elbrus from Scotland. 🙂 Thanks again for this!
Hello, John! Thank you for the comment! I believe the easiest way of getting a visa is through a travel agency they can arrange invitation letter for you and all the required documents. The best way of getting to Elbrus from Scotland is to fly to Moscow first and then take a train/flight to Nalchik or Mineralny Vody from there you can get by bus to Terskol (Elbrus).
Cheers!
I am also planning to climb Elbrus Solo.. If u want we can team Up..
Hello, thank you for this excellent article, it is extremely useful! My children, aged 11 and 6, would love to climb Elbrus so I have just started researching it to see whether it is doable at such a young age or not. How do you think it compares to Kilimanjaro or EBC in terms of difficulty? We all summited Kilimanjaro twice last October via the Machame and Umbwe routes, and EBC and Kala Patthar (also twice) a month ago. The children found the treks fun and "easy-peasy" but it seems to me that summit day on Elbrus may be riskier? Thank you!
Hello Victoria, thanks for reading. We found Elbrus more dangerous and harder than Kilimanjaro and EBC.
Kilimanjaro and EBC are both treks, Elbrus is not very technical, but there is a lot of snow and you need some equipment, so it is a non-technical climb not a trek, we just walked the whole way, no real climbing. Elbrus is not really a multi day trek. Unlike Kili and EBC where you hike a couple of days, you do some acclimatization hikes and then it is just one day attempt to summit, similar to the final ascend of Kilimanjaro. There is a lot of snow and you need to use double layered plastic boots with crampons which might be a problem to find in such small sizes. There are international companies that climb Elbrus regularly, I would recommend you contact a reputable agency and get their opinion. Safe travels
Hi,
First of all thank you for this much needed information.
Just want to know if we need to take any prior permission or permit before attempting Mt Elbrus?
Thanks in advance
Prasanna Wagh
Hello, Prasanna! Thank you for the comment! We didn't have to go and gey any permits but we did go to the rescue office in Terskol to let them know when we're planning to leave and to come back. It's important to do in case something goes wrong up there and you're not back on the day you're supposed to be they can start looking for you.
Cheers!
Your Definitive Guide to Climbing Mt. Elbrus Unguided.
Best tour description you can find, cheers guys.
Hello! Thanks so much for this guide! I just have a few questions:
1) Is the climb too dangerous to do on the last week of August? Will there still be lots of people there? (so that I can follow a group up)
2) Are there any electrical outlets in the huts/barrels? If not, can you rent equipment for boiling water (campstove,etc)?
3) I don't have a 60l backpack on me. Can you rent a backpack at the rental shops?
Thanks again!
Hello, Mark! Thank you for the comment!
1. It depends on the weather conditions if it's a nice day (no wind and ok visibility) it's not dangerous if it's very windy and overcast it's better not to go up. You'll just have to wait for a good day in general the conditions in August are not as favorable as in July but there are still good days. We climbed Elbrus in mid-August and there were quite a lot of people going up I believe there will be a couple of groups at the end of August as well.
2. From what I remember there were outlets and electricity (at least in newer barrels), most of them have a cooking stove with a couple of pots that you can use for cooking we used our camping stove only when we were camping for the first two days after we moved into a barrel we used a stove there. I'd recommend checking barrels and choosing the one with the best facilities end of August is not the peak season I'm sure you'll have a choice.
3. I don't know if they have 60l backpacks to rent they do have backpacks in rental shops but I don't know if they're 50 or 60 or 70l. You'll have to go and find out yourself.
Cheers!
Thank you so much for the information! I've just started my research for this mountain and think this has been the best source for how I'd like to do the climb. I am hoping to bring a snowboard and ride off the summit back down to the barrels (or to wherever the snow ends). Did you see people doing this when you were there or hear people talking about doing this?
Thanks
Hello, Brian! Thank you for the comment! To be honest I'm not sure it's possible to go down with a snowboard all the way from the top, some parts on the climb have no inclination at all and are very narrow. We didn't see anybody doing it when we climbed, people come there in winter for skiing and snowboarding but they start at Garabashi and go down from there, not from the top.
Cheers!
Hello, greeting! First of all, HUGE thank you for the article. Its very informative, simple and straight forward.
I've read your article and comments full with valuable information. However I still have a question and would appreciate if you can help out.
I'm flying to Mineralnye Vody tomorrow and plan to take a cab to Terskol. Plan to try using Yandex taxi app to book. Then in Terskol stay a night to register at rescue and rent gear. Probably do a day hike closeby. During the summit hike, I plan to stay at barrels. Do they serve food there (at Garabashi, Priyut-11, Maria Shelter), or I have to bring my own and cook there?
Appreciate your comment. Again, thanks for sharing all these great information!
Hello, Amir! Thank you for the comment! At Garabashi (right at the ski lift station) there is one or two cafes where you can get a hot meal, snacks, tea etc. About 100m up there are two restaurants, one works 24 hours (it least it what it said), at Priyut 11 there is nothing, there used to be a hotel but it burned down years ago. At Shelter Maria, we made our own food but I think at some barrels you could order food as weel like pasta or noodles.
Good luck!
Hi there, this is a long overdue note but just wanted to thank you for all the information shared. I summited Elbrus on Aug 23 last year solo unguided, a few days after our chat. All the information you shared was spot on. I wrote all the notes from your guide and the route map as my main reference. Just mis-understood about the food thingy - so ended only eating Dates and Snickers for 2 days. Once back down in Terskol ate like a horse! haha. All in all, it was a wonderful hike. Went on a day hike after rest around Terskol hotel, at this smaller ski resort with a security post at the top.
Thank you again for the help, this site is truly an inspiration. Travel safe and looking forward for the next read. cheers.
Hi, Amir! I'm so glad you summited Elbrus on your own! Thank you for the feedback it's very inspiring to know that our content is helpful!
Keep well!
Hey guys- no questions, just wanted to thank you for putting this guide together. I summited Elbrus solo unguided about a week ago, and this was honestly my main resource for information on how to do it. I even turned the page into a PDF and saved it onto my phone for offline access while in Russia. This guide was not only invaluable for practical information but was also a great motivator for me, so thanks again!
Hello, Albert! Thank you very much for the feedback! And congratulations on your summiting, it's a big achievement!
Cheers!
Hey, thank you a lot for that really nice article. Way better than all the other articles I could find about Elbrus. It feels like it perfectly fits my needs.
Still I have some questions left and I would be really happy if you can help me with this:
1. We want to get to russia by train and our last station is Mineralnie Vody - do you know if there are any budget freindly methods to get from there to Treskol?
2. I don't really want to use the cable car to get up to the mountain. Are there well recognisable ways that we can follow, or do you have any suggestions where I can find up to date maps?
3. Do you know how cold it is up there in the second half of august? If we want to camp at Mir station - do you think it will be to cold?
4. And one last question: do you have make reservations for the accommodations at Shelter Maria?
It would be really nice if you could help me with some of my questions!:)
Hello, Tim! Thank you for the comment!
1. We got to Terskol from Mineralnie Vody, you'll have to do a switch. First, take a minibus towards Nalchik and tell them you want to go to Terskol. They'll drop you off at the turn (there is a petrol station there). I'd suggest finding Terskol on Google.maps to make sure you won't miss the turn in cast the driver forgets. 2. Go to the bus stop on the opposite side of the petrol station and take another minibus to Terskol. You can try to hitchhike or take a taxi it's not expensive though you'll have to negotiate. If you miss the turn off don't worry, just go all the way to Nalchik, buses to Terskol leave from there (the same bus terminal you arrive).
2. It's up to you to walk or to use a cable car but the route up is far from being scenic, it goes right under the cable car and the ski lift. We didn't see any tourists walking up only Russian army guys running up with their backpacks.
3. We climbed in mid-August and camped at Mir Station it was cold and windy but if you have warm sleeping bags, good isolation pads and right clothes you'll be fine. The wind was the main problem, it's important to find the right spot.
4. The second half of August is not the peak season anymore I think you'll be able to get a spot without booking in advance at least we could find a place without any problem. We moved to a shelter just a day before the ascend and were very happy about it, it is much easier to stay indoors and store your backpack there.
Safe travels and good luck!
I did my first Elbrus climb a month ago. The info is 100% spot on. But... remember the mountain is easy if you get lucky. Experienced climbers lose their life there. Every year. If you never did 5000 m. before or did them at lower latitudes - I suggest you taking a guide. I've seen these lone half-crazed from the lack of oxygen dudes at the summit stumbling their way back down the slope. You don't want to be one of them, especially if you can't read the weather.
I just really want to thank you for the article, so practical and straight to the point. I will be going to attempt it in a week and without this post it would have been a lot more challenging.
Hello, Ruan! Thank you for the comment! We're glad our post was helpful! Good luck with the climb!
I have referenced this post so many times ! Awesome! We are leaving for Elbrus in two days and had one final question. From the cable car in Mir Station, do you have to walk up to Garabashi if you have bags heavier than 10kg or is there an option other than the chair lift? We will definitely have more than 10kg of gear for our stay in the huts at Garabashi. Thanks again for such a great post !
Hello, Frank! Thank you reading our blog! You can use the ski lift to get from Mir to Garabashi, just if your backpack is big and more than 10kg you pay extra for your backpack because bigger bags go up with the ski lift on a separate chair.
Safe travel and good luck with the climb! Please, let us know when you're done!
Hi, thanks for this article. I'm going in july and decided against a guide and some better accommodation instead! I was just wondering how much of a problem speaking zero russian is in regards to the hire shop and making the call to the rescue people?
Hello, Lyndon! Thank you for the comment! In the gear shops in Terskol people speak English, I'm quite confident you'll be able to communicate with them. As for the rescue I'm sure they should understand some English for emergency situation, there are quite a few foreigners climb the mountains every year. Campbell often uses Google translate for English-Russian combination, surprisingly it works quite well and it's even possible to have a basic conversation.
Safe travels!